laser1

Cope is right on, The Dellorto PHBL makes alot more power off the bottom when on the rich side. When the pilot is too lean, it becomes a nice running 200. A high comp head will give you more punch. However, there are tradeoffs. I found the HC head was the biggest shot in the arm on my 250's, but the biggest gain was to the midrange and it became harder to ride on the low end as it lost its nice smooth delivery, so I added a FWW. Jon was right on about adjusting your technique with the clutch to spin her up. While the FWW helped smooth out the big pulses from the HC head and provided torque for slow, controlled hill climbs, One thing I didnt like about the FWW is that the bike now wanted to over run everything. Get all that mass spinning for the hit and it wants to keep spinning! Again, use of the clutch provided a solution - but it took me several rides to get my throttle/clutch timing set. I will say that the best mod I did to my bike was to switch to a 26mm VHST carb. It provides cleaner - crisper power down low. (not really any more - just more responsive) and I would mount it as close the the airbox as possible (1/2" makes a noticeable difference to bottom end response) I never tried a long head pipe, but my buddy with a 280 has one and his bike runs sweet off the bottom. All that said - a stock (properly jetted) 250 with the correct use of the clutch can do very well.

I would have been thrilled for just 2xtragrip, but 3 of them has me really excited.

Wise move Jonny042. Flushing the system is recommended for AJP as well. Good insurance that there was no left over machining swarf. Ive seen plenty of crap come out of new bikes master cylinders - not sure why cleaning them out is such an issue!

A clean carb is a must - but a very lean fuel screw setting will mimic those problems - I would try setting that. Typical PHBL settings around my neck of the woods is 3 to 3 1/2 turns out. If your setup much less than that - try a richer setting. (and remember its a fuel screw on the PHBL!)

Raga still uses AJP last I saw. Any chance AJP is coming back?

I would "hope" the new Raga bike uses the Reiger "Factory" shock with all the bells and whistles.

Red "oil" is ATF. The correct amount of oil is 375-400ml on the Pro. You can download all the manuals off the GG spain website 2010 GG 250 manual here - http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/models-1-2010.html see page 11 for oil amount = 400ml Extra oil causes drag! Keep it clean and your tranny and clutch will thank you.

How to hop the front wheel.

400cc to 375cc is for the Pro model only. The recommended amount for the Edition model is 650cc - although I used to run 550cc in mine for less drag. GG had confusing nomenclature in 2002 for the two different models - so you can get some widely varying answers. Its best to identify it as a Pro or Edition as they were both technically txt 280's....go figure.

When I ride my buddies 300 - I have to remind myself to give the kick alot of extra snap compared to my 250. When warm - his bike wont start without giving it a crack of throttle during the kick. Starts right up when everything done right, but is a PITA if you get one thing wrong. He starts it 1st kick everytime. I would switch bikes with another 300 rider and see if the problem follows the bike or the rider. FWIW: My dad used to put head spacers in some of his customer 300's to make them easier to start. Good luck with the bike - I know it can be frustrating when it wont start. My favorite bike of all time was a 1 kick starter and I think that really played into why I liked it so much.

Probably not the issue, but you mentioned you replaced the KS pawl - did you follow the recommended alignment? Sounds like the bike was always hard to start - but thought I would bring it up anyway as something else to take note of to make sure your getting a full spin of the motor. Also - have you had another 300 rider give it a go? They can require a very special kick.

Make sure you watch the pro repair video's on this site before splitting the cases - they are very helpful and a valuable resource. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html

143 kit doesn't require any machining and adds nice punch.

You really need to ride one - they are quite different than the 2 strokes. So if it suits you then thats great. For the novice class, just about any bike will do fine - it just comes down to what grabs you. You might want to compare against a Beta 200 as well. They are super starter bikes IMO.

Sounds like its flooding - I would check the float assembly and fuel needle valve. Over time, the seat on the fuel needle valve can become compromised and allow more fuel to trickle into the float bowl and flood the bike even if the float has shut it off. Other than that - yes, the ignitions systems can be suspect in these bikes.

Very Good time to buy one - American Beta just reduced the price $500! (new MSRP $7999 on 3004t) They are doing some really creative things lately. BYOB, Renta bikes for nationals, Beta SS, financing ect....I hope the other importers are paying attention!

If you have the Al tubed Marzocchi forks - the air gap = 160mm If you have the steel tubed Sachs forks (or pre 06 Steel Marzocchi's) - the air gap = 180mm The wall extra wall thickness of the AL tubes accounts for the height difference as both forks use the same volume of fluid.

I would try raising the fork tubes in the clamps a couple inches and try a softer spring in the rear/back off the shock preload to run 50% SAG. Other than that - the OSET is the perfect little kid bike. Good luck.

From the dellorto UK site: T-means Terrific! A note on carburettor model designations. PHBH 28 B S PHBH - Main body type, each body comes in a range of bores. - The effective diameter bore of the carburettor in mm. B - Generally rubber sleeve "elastic" type fitting. A - Generally clamp type fitting. Other letters have no specific meaning - they have certain original applications - if you are unsure which model you need, contact us before buying. S - "Sinistra" - "left" in Italian - Left hand idle mixture and idle speed screws. D - "Destra" - "right" in Italian Right hand idle mixture and idle speed screws.

It appears the shims are available. Wonder if there is a English version of this video? http://betamotor.jp/support/cluch-ajust.htm

Since the K of a spring = Force/Distance, it seems that the distance to achieve the force necessary to lock the clutch plates together (and thus drive the rear wheel) would be achieved in a shorter spring displacement by using a spring with a higher K. (Distance = F/K) and match my empirical results.

Ive put many softer springs in them and when going from the 05 stiff spring to the soft one, the clutch does become noticeably more progressive. Similar to the difference between Type F and Dex III ATF. Wont make it a light switch - but will make it faster-as well as a stiffer pull.

If you've tried all the various pak/fluid combo's - Maybe you can spec a 05 or older clutch spring (Belville washer)as they are 20% stiffer than from 06 on. What happened to the German?? OEM Pak supplier they have been using since 05?? Did they go under? They are nonadjustable, but work well and can use ATF-F for a quick trigger. Not sure if the Surflex and DP fibers are as good at resisting swellage (if thats a word)

The Renthals are really strong and hold up well. Bars can take a beating in trials so you may want to consider that in the cost equation. I think your smart to re-spring. The bike will handle like it was designed to. The proper spring and valving are often overlooked until you change them and realize the difference it makes. Many over preload the shock (instead of the proper spring) and it makes for a very harsh and unstable ride. One simple fix for the forks is to install HD springs (or spring) and add 10wt oil to the rebound side. (Im assuming the std setup is 7wt like on a gasser) If your flush with money, the Raptor pegs are lower than others (lower profile as well) Stay away from the billet Al type as they tend to be tall. You can probably get different FP hangers as well. also - dont forget to bend your knees and keep a wide stance. Good luck

Jitsie info: Part number = LEC90.1S GP AJP Replica Clutch Lever Pro, Short, Gold