laser1

How many feet of welds are in that thing?

I would guess u cant stall one

off topic but That is one wild looking pipe on the Ossa Enduro. (thanks HRC1)

Just noticed this on the GG website. http://www.gasgasmotos.es/es/trial/380-txt-e.html Looks pretty cool.

If your 2 top flight riders know more than the current MFG's - then they should start there own company. Thats how it works here anyway. If there right, they will reap the rewards.

Hasn't the market answered these weight questions? I think its upto the individual consumer to decide what tradeoffs are best suited to them. If a bike is heavy, the mfg will lose some stop and hop customers. If a bike is unreliable - same thing. IMHO - Its best to let the chips fall where they may and dont try and regulate the sport to death.

I was told that the Commo's still have a good inventory of parts for older Beta's. RCS Racing North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 Tel: (802) 425-2081 Tel: (802) 318-0357

You sir are correct - I had the progression (under the slide) and idle circuits backwards in my prior explanation. Thanks for clearing that up.

Sounds like you need to turn the fuel screw out (richer) 1/2 a turn and go from there. Pinging on throttle chops are a sign the progression circuit is lean and is controlled by the fuel screw.

Most folks are running a 48 in the 300's around here. (sealevel) You may get by with a air screw tweak and/or richen the needle up 1 position.

I havent seen any aftermarket suppliers per se - mostly skunk works of dedicated dads like yourself. The 12.5 doesnt seem to get much other than electric upgrades. Here's one of the trickest 16's ive seen with all new suspension parts added in a very professional manner. (you may have to sign up for the site to see the thread - its a small trials fourum on advrider) http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=733874

Give it more Octane and less oil. 80:1 with a good synthetic is more than enough - we use 100:1 w/o any issues for trials course work (no extended road work) Dont know about your gas - but we run race gas over here at 100+ octane.

Good grip - minimal boot damage. Very comfy. Cant beat the cool welds. (Im not on commission either) Downside is they are fairly pricy, but not as much as the junk Ti S3's I wasted $200 on.

The Ti S3's lasted me about 1 season before they broke to bits. The AL S3's look much beefier, but I went with the Raptors. They have alot more to them than the Ti S3's did.

Yes - I would clean the pilot jet, check the float level (might be too low) and check the fuel screw setting.

There is a NETA 2-day trials in upstate NY this weekend. Im sure there would be a few bikes there that are for sale and available to ride. You could also meet many of the riders and watch some of the action. Better yet - join in and have some fun. (you can get a NETA day pass for $20) There is event info (directions), dealer and classifieds info here:NETA Website

Another improvement to any 05 clutch is to switch to the 06+ clutch spring. Its 20% lighter over your current spring and makes a huge difference.

IMO - The KBB price would represent a 2000 321 in very good to excellent condition. Would certainly have to be well maintained and run great with maybe a few scratches here and there. The NADA price is low and would represent a beater.

Its normal for a tire to lose a little air in-between rides. Most trials riders will use a bicycle pump and add/check the tire air pressure before each daily ride. If the tire will hold pressure while you ride, then its really not a major problem - just a little inconvenient. There is a band on the inside of the rim that seals the air in the tire and prevents it from leaking out the spoke holes. Many times, the seal of this band is imperfect and will slowly leak. They are a PITA to seal 100% for even a experienced tire changer, so even replacing it is no guarantee you wont still have to add air each time you ride. If the tire is going completely flat in one day, thats a pretty bad leak. Using the above method of soapy water, you should be able to find where the leak is - out the spokes, between the tire and rim, tire puncture, valve stem. Check that out and get back to us.

My guess ( a total one at that ) would be possibly related to depreciation. I know I would have been p****d off if I bought a Raga bike every year and then suddenly my current bike is now 2 years old! Many would think it wouldn't effect resale, but I would beg to differ. At the very least, I know I wouldnt want to have to explain it to people trying to buy the bike. "but really - its only been ridden on Sundays and its one year old..."

The 200 is like a powerful 125 - where most of the gain is down low. Has a very light feel. The 250 has a very smooth power delivery, but as you would expect, more power/torque everywhere over the 200. It doesnt feel as feather light as the 200, but has a snappy feel still. The advantage of the 250 will be most notable on large steep climbs and bigger hits. The 200 will be easier to maintain precision and throw around. I would make a road trip to try them out - or at least try a 250 with a slow throttle. Very easy bike to ride. If too much - 200 would work. The beta 200 is a very nice bike as well. (kinda in between the 2 IMHO)

Yes there is a difference. You really need to ride them both (200/250)and decide which bike is the best fit for you.

I thought the same thing - but the 280 oring is too big and cant be used. I called the shop I bought it from and they checked another 250A insert and it is the same as mine - maybe the batch got messed up or this (HC only) was designed this way - dont know. All I know is the std oring is a very very tight fit and tends to be short lived. I have a few different sizes coming in tomorrow to try out. should work. I have my fingers crossed anyway. Thanks for the replies.

Still there - its in this word doc - KS indexing section GASGAS Pro Engine Technical Bulletin UPDATED JUNE. 08 2010