laser1

The correct oring to use on this S3 head appears to be a 81mm x1.78mm A non std size. Can find 81mm in 2.0cs, but will over fill the groove. Looks like I will have to have a custom one made. Thanks s3. This completes the trifecta for me. Have now had problems with every s3 "upgrade" ive ever bought. (risers,pegs,head...) nice! not a fan.

Thanks - I wish it was that easy - its a red insert and labeled 250A.

Ive been having an ongoing problem with the s3 head leaking on my bike. I switched the head on my 09 250 pro to a s3 star head with a high compression insert for more power. I like the power, but dont like that the head develops leaks, very quickly, on a regular basis. The leaks are small, but enough to cause poor throttle response. When I check the plug, it looks gritty and the threads have a wet silver slurry on them. I pull the head apart and the inner oring is usually shot - melted and hard in spots. (not always the same spot) With really bad leaks, I also get coolant steam out the back of the exhaust, but thats not typical. One thing I noticed is that the inner oring fit on the s3 with the std OEM GG oring is a very, very tight fit. Much more so than the std OEM head. The problem is that the inner oring diameter on the s3 head is aprox 2.5mm larger (yes that is in MM!) and causes the gasket to stretch very tight. I think too tight and thins the oring too much. Anyone else see this type of issue on there s3 heads? Im about ready to switch back to the OEM head but figured I'd throw it out there in case im missing somthing. I have not changed the upper oring (up near the spark plug)as it doesnt appear to be leaking, but it may be affecting how the lower orings seal. Anyone with any good idea's on how to fix this? I think a better fitting inner oring would be a good start, but havent found one yet. Anyone have a source for a correct fitting oring? idea's from the mechanical engineers in the forum? FWIW: I torque the head very slowly and uniformly and retorque after a few heat cycles.

Good luck with that when there's a cup of gas in the crankcase. Trailering with a open petcock and a full tank of gas can filler up good.

Trailers shake, bounce and vibrate the bike much more than if its in the back of a vehicle. All that force combined with the head pressure of a tank of gas will overwhelm your carb fuel valve(fuel needle & seat),and as a result, The bike will flood. When you tipped the bike over, the bike also flooded. You need a fuel petcock. Make sure its closed when you trailer. Install a way to shut off the gas and you should be OK. If not, before you trailer, run the bike for a short while with the fuel off, and use up the fuel in the line and lower the level in the bowel a bit. If you flood the bike - it helps to turn off the gas, remove the plug and kick it, If its really bad, turn it upside down and kick it to get all the gas out of the crankcase.

Wheel turning while on stand is normal. Bike should not move when the bike is on the ground.

Yes!

Could be the camera angle - but your sprockets dont seem to line up either.

That makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.

Thats a shame. I hope they rectify that if they get a chance - At least on the blog. Im sure RYP would be greatfull for some press as well.

Just checked this thread and Jon measures with springs OUT - so please use his method as im not worthy. May explain my why forks are so fast! http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/34074-09-gas-gas-pro-fork-oil/page__p__257187__hl__%2Bfork+%2Bfluid__fromsearch__1#entry257187

You drain out the bottom, but to get all the old oil out and fresh in, you need to unscrew the top caps and remove the spring to pump the oil out of the cartridge (as well as refill). The GGUSA site has documentation to show the exploded view of the forks and a old video showing some disassembly tips. GG recommends using the oil height method only. Steel tubes are 180mm/Al tube 160mm I believe . check it on the site. When reassembling, make sure you tighten the tubes w/o binding them. (top to bottom method is the way I do it - plenty of topics to search on this - I think JSE has several threads on the proper method with nice write ups.) PS - measure with springs IN.

The best way to speed up the fork action is to switch to 5wt oil. Also, make sure the forks arent binding. Also - A forward Handlebar position will help and remember to use those knees!

+1 on above suggestions. I would have another GG300 rider try it and see if it's the bike or rider. If the bike, and your jetting is set ok, a low comp head insert/spacer would also help alittle.

Its a poor design for several durability reasons. Nice idea though. Needs improvement GG.

They are referring to the fact that you have to cut the old (one piece style)silencer off and rivet this one on. Not for the timid mechanic...Includes the guts - not just a shell. A buddy of mine bought one as it was cheaper than the stock OEM silencer. Sounds great, but CF doesnt hold up as well as the weldable AL OEM unit IMO.

I think you had it right the 1st time. The cost and install instructions indicate its the whole assembly. Or its the worlds most expensive cover. DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE ORIGINAL SILENCER!....THEY ARE FOR THE "07/"08 'ONE-PIECE' MIDDLEBOX / SILENCER ONLY......not for the older separate silencers... Only a skilled mechanic can fit this part. You have to cut your original silencer and fit this over the original and fix with rivets. Fitting instructions available Looks and sounds awesome!

slippery floor would be interesting. Hope to see them go big next time.

+1 - check the woodrift key. (if it ran great at 1st, I doubt you have a mouse in your exhaust)

Where is your fuel screw, if its past 4 turns out and you hear knocking/detonation when you chop the throttle, then yes. If your problem is when your wide open on the road, then no. (or probably not as it relates to this problem) I would call your trials dealer or GGUK to get the proper carb jetting recommendations for your area/fuel. They should know EXACTLY what you want. Its a good exercise to go through. Get to know and love your carb and it will treat you right.

Dont feel bad - the nomenclature is confusing for everyone. The fuel valve assembly is a rubber tipped, cone shaped "needle", that is activated by the floats to allow or stop fuel into the carb bowl. There are different sizes to allow for various maximum flow rates. Heres what the assembly looks like. There is a number stamped on the side. If you are running out of gas, and the supply into the carb is OK, check this. You want at least a 300. Maybe higher is your doing alot of road work. My guess is you have a 270 and a 300 will help. A good info source for the dellorto carb is; http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_manuals/dellorto_manual.pdf

You want a minimum of a 300 fuel valve to avoid problems (on a Dellorto)

if you think your running out of gas, you may need a larger fuel needle valve assembly. I would also check the tank venting. You should get a nice solid stream of fuel from the unplugged line.

anyone find any pics of the new rear suspension setup - other than the Reiger decal that is...

Im with TFT on this. The cable is probably binding against the tank/frame.