laser1

Supposedly Dougie and Brownie are using the new Reiger suspension on there current bikes at the SSDT. Im suprised SOMEONE hasn't taken any pictures of the rear of the bikes and posted them. Must be having too much fun watching the riding and drinking the single malt. Hopefully all info will be forthcoming - SOON!

You can switch to a softer spring - perfect for the 200 as the std spring is made to hold a 300 and way stiffer than it needs to be for a novice rider looking for a nice slow progressive action. easier to pull too! http://www.jackscycles.com/lpse.htm

The 1st sentence you type would indicate that the clutch basket bolt has backed out and is preventing the top hat from traveling all the way in to collapse the spring. Not sure about what is happening when you are playing with it to make it work. Other than the bolt, I would make sure there is lever free play at the master cylinder and its operating smoothly.

suspension setup?

There is a NETA trials school in RI this Sunday. Info on the NETA site.

FWWI: If thats a 225 kit - the dealer would be the one who is responsible for the screw up.

Too bad about the mixup. I think if you ordered the part from a established trials source, its just an unfortunate and honest mistake. I think it would be reasonable to ask for a refund and and return the parts. (They should pay for shipping) But to insist they send you a head for free, seems aggressive to me. I would ask them what they had in mind for the price of a s3 - hopefully a good enough deal to avoid sending back the other parts.

I would do it again.

I added the s3 head w/HC insert to my 09 250. It definitely gives the bike more midrange power, but you lose some smoothness down low. I also had some difficulty with the inner o-ring sealing properly. The o-ring groove on the s3 has a larger ID than the std head and caused me some pain with water leaks. Need to torque up very carefully and re-torque after a heat cycle.

You should PM georgeabroad on here. He was looking to tame his 300 by making it a 250 awhile back. Maybe still is?

One dealer is advertising selling the bikes but no others that im aware of have info on how to obtain there product. Being such an exciting new entry, people(potential bike customers) are eagar to know now that a official announcements has been made. Many of these folks are loyal to there local dealerships who work hard to support them and would buy a bike if available locally. Hopefully the info will be released soon. Why not? Its spring time you know! (We just got 6" of snow, but it is spring - new bike time) I think OSSA has been favorably received here on TC. (aside from reaction to a very confusing and poorly translated news article on funding) I dont think me asking the question interrupts there business.

did you see an importer mentioned? I didnt.

I have seen new OSSA dealership announcements and rumors online regarding who it will be, but still no specific mention of who the US OSSA importer is and the status of bike availability. Anyone know who the importer is, or are we in double secret probation.

Ive only seen mention of the race model 125 in the USA. Not sure if that means no Raga 125 or not. I also heard that the upcoming RAGA bikes will skip the 2011 model year designation and use a 2012 model year.

Sorry about that Arnoux - I read your previous message wrong.

They are too stiff as New. You need softer springs. I believe you can get a set from John Shirt in the UK or Dale Malasik in the US. I know Dale replaces the Springs in all the Cadets he imports.

No-You dont determine how a shock bottoms out with spring Preload. Yes, Adjust the SAG of the bike to your weight. Setting the SAG with preload primarily maintains the correct bike geometry and determines the initial force to activate the suspension, but does nothing to change the Spring K, so the bottoming (or bump rubber flogging) is mainly unaffected. I believe SACHS had a bad batch of the bumpers. You can replace it with a new ones. If your bottoming out really hard, play with damping adjustments and stiffer springs.

GG has a new rear suspension on the new Raga bike this year - should be interesting to see what they went too. (I dont believe its just a change to a Reiger shock - supposedly a new "patented" design will be employed.)

I know of 2 2010 bikes that had the same problem. Happened when fairly new - riders got replacement shocks from GG.

The std base gaskets are available in a number of thicknesses - 1.0mm and less. So it sounds like you have 3 in there. The OEM ones I have pulled have been in the 0.8mm to 1mm range. Maybe Jon (JSE) will explain what this is probably doing in regards to your issues. My own experience has been that novice riders using 50:1 tend to need to clean out there exhausts on a regular basis to retain proper performance. Maybe the altered port timing is making this even worse. I do know several guys who added a base gasket to there bikes to smooth it down, but my dad has always preferred the head spacer route with customers. Personally, I would clean out the exhaust port, head pipe and mid box when you have it all apart to patch it (Check the tabs for cracks as mentioned above) and service the silencer with fresh packing material. Run it at 80:1 to 100:1 for trials riding. More oil ONLY if you do alot of road work. Check the jetting and take it from there. Sting's draining method is spot on. (I always forget to tell folks about the thrust washer and its easy to miss +1!) Do you know how many degrees you changed the timing? I wouldnt think it can be more than a couple degrees max, so shouldnt be a problem. You do need to keep an eye on the GAP of the sensor and FW. Too close, will rub when hot. To far, weak signal. Dont know the target number off the top of my head. Do a search on here if you can. (Sting - do you know what the nominal is?)

Did you say .24 INCHES of Gaskets? Did you mean MM? I hope so. If its really inches - I would pull them and limit it to 1 extra base gasket. +1mm. How did you change the ignition timing? Not easy to do on a Pro. Most of the time, holes in a AL mid box are caused by fires. Just because your fan is kicking off, doesnt mean the exhaust temp in the mid box is OK. Usually, the tell tale sign of this is that the bike continues to smoke even after its shut off.

IMO you are running too much oil - and that oil is gumming up the works. It sounds like the oil residue in the midbox got hot enough to catch fire and melt it. Does it smoke after a hard run down the road? As far as the mid box, Have a welder put a patch on it - weld may look poor as above mention of contamination, if not cleaned well. Should be OK if u take precautions. FWIW: 80 to 100:1 is typical. (w/a good synthetic oil)

I can attest to the fact that Pauls method works on GasGas as well. Good story Dan - I'll bet your glad to be around to tell it.

Check out Barge cement. Widely used by Cobblers. The OEM Glue on the Gaernes is pretty weak.

One other simple thing to check is the tank bolt. Usually alittle on the buzzy side, but can sound like alittle like slap and will follow engine rpm.