laser1

The 2009 TXt bike manual is correct for all the major parts. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/manuals/Despiece_TXTPro_2009.pdf Lots of good info on the trialspartsusa.com site.

In the USA, you can find VHST's around that folks took off there older GG's. Got mine for free from a friend who switched it off his bike for a PWK. The GG jetting recommendations were not the best, so I can see why folks dont like them over here if there running that setup. Combine that with a faulty fuel valve on many of them and you may a well just run an old BING.. Count the cost of turning down the carb, jets, and fuel valve, I figure I have about $50 into it. I do get my Dellorto parts cheap from Herdan though, so it may be a bit more elsewhere. The OKO seems like a good choice for the price. (the USA price that is) I have also heard of people sleeving there PWK28's to a 26mm. You can buy sleeves (and other wild stuff) here. http://www.mototekna.com/index.html - anyone try any of there wild stuff there? (airfoils ect..) I know I cant wait until we are all riding FI or Electric bikes....Of course then we'll be talking about Maps or Batteries.

Dont forget to include the specs on the BEER!

FWIW: In my bike GG250 @ near sealevel in NewEngland (hot humid in summer) Main 122 Pilot s34(small hole atomizer - easy to clog,but works well) Needle d48 Clip 4th from top(top being #1) to 3rd from top(mid summer) Slide Stock Mixture Screw x turns out - 1 1/4 (not a static setting - WOT lean bog +1/2 turn method) Fuel valve 300 Atomiser jet 272HH (small hole atomizer - not large hole HE) Choke stock (60?) Diffuser height I have the old style LOW height - the higher (7mm?)ones provide a richer midrange and run "may" better with a D37 needle and 271 HE atomizer. This is ALL on Race Gas. If in the UK with a pump gas and tall diffuser VHST, I suggest the settings that Senior Blanco of Marlin Tec suggested and he used with on his GG250. 124 S32 D37 2T 271HE 300 valve (important) For the US - I strip the carb and throw all the jets in clean gas for 20 minutes. (just dont want to dry out all the little orings) If I have a nasty looking carb body,(like post winter) after stripping, I put it in a water based degreaser for 20 minutes, then gas for 20 minutes - air blow out. As far as time, just dont let the carb get real hot. I find I can usually just pull the pilot jet and blow it out real well with canned air and Im usually back in business, but I do like to US the sucker every now and then to make certain its all good; For instance, like to give it the US treatment after a long dusty event. Im also very anal about the air filter. After finding a bunch of crap in my fuel petcock filter, I also check that couple times a season. (been fine so far after switch to race gas and clean can) FWIW:I used to over oil my air filter. It didnt seem to impact the PHBL, but noticed the VHST likes to run fairly dry. (maybe part of the reason it clogs easier - but does run better) The VHST doesn't use the rubber donut that the PHBL uses and combined with the trumpeted inlet,I feel has a much higher flow than the rather ugly looking PHBL inlet. (it may be all in my head) I had my VHST turned down to fit the stock manifold on the GG. I could swap the PHBL back and forth threw out the process to compare ridability. In the end, I preferred it, but its not night and day. Just better for me. Crisper would be the word I use. I also prefer the light return spring on the VHST. I encourage testing. My last GG250 liked a little leaner setup. 120 main s32 pilot. I do have different reeds in this bike as well as a HC head. Also - read the VHST info on the Marlin Tec page. He has also written up a carb comparison on the TODO site. He's very knowledgeable and provides some great insight into why these carbs got a bad rep in the past. Havent seen him post here in awhile though. Hope this helps - but remember what they say about free advise...

For me, The PWK 28mm is a great carb and the best setup going for the 300. Plenty of power down low. Very snappy - revs very quick. Having said that, I know some folks running a 26mm OKO and they like them very much. I dont care for the 26mm PHBL on the 300 at all. Seems OK, until you ride one with the PWK. FWIW: in my experience, the 28mm is just alittle too much on the smaller bike(250) and is "alittle" softer down low compared to the 26mm. Has wicked over rev though. I am convinced there are tradeoffs to every mod. so one really needs to figure out what suits there own riding style best. That usually takes time. You possibly get a great running bike and definitely REALLY fast at taking the carb off/on..

A well tuned VHST on my bike made the bike better EVERYWHERE over the PHBL. It was not easy as the STD jetting recommendations were a poor choice. I read Senior Blanco's info on the VHST and contacted him via email and his suggestions were very helpful. You can get a smoother yet crisp low end (less of the pop/pop/pop surging the PHBL has on the pilot circuit) and better response everywhere else. Not so much MORE power, just very responsive and better throttle feel. I found that I had to run a rich pilot on the PHBL to produce good power. The VHST can run much leaner on the pilot and still maintain good power. (My 250 became a nice smooth running bike with a lean pilot on the PHBL, but really killed the power - felt like a 200) For Carb cleaning, US is the way to go to REALLY get it clean. The best ones are swept frequency and has a timer. An airline works OK most of the time, but if there is trapped crud, the US can break it down and remove it. (Air line after the US to blow out the cleaning solvents)They are available on FleaBay.

The VHST is a more "performance" orientated carb. Flat slide, better pilot atomizer, trumpeted intake for smoother air flow ect...However, If its not jetted correctly, or dirty, no carb will work well. In general. the 28mm carb will have less throttle response down low than your buddies 26mm. I personally think the 250's run better with the 26's. Conversely, the 28mm will have alot more up top. (not very meaningful to a novice) I think that there are 2 other things going for the "simple" PHBL. One is that it has been used on alot of OEM bikes (GG and Sherco) and the best jetting has been very well established. The other is that the Pilot circuit of the VHST is much easier to clog or get restricted from dirt, whereas the simplier PHBL just (seemingly) passes everything (no small atomizer holes to deal with) and also has the fuel inlet screen filter that the VHST doesnt have. I would verify the jetting with RYP. Clean the carb (ultra sonic if you can) and put on a clean fuel filter, air filter and good gas. If you cant get the bike to run to your liking, the PHBL's are inexpensive. I run a 26mm VHST on my 250 GG and really like it when its "clean". I need to strip it and clean it every now and then though to keep it optimized. I never did that with my PHBL. I can see why the PHBL makes a good OEM carb.

I would check the VIN#.

Thanks very much for the advice Jon.

Hey Jon, Not to highjack the tread, but as it pertains to fork reassembly after the seals are replaced, Can you please describe your process for bleeding the cartridge properly? I think I may need to bleed mine as the forks have developed a dead spot at the top of 1" of the stroke. Thanks.

The GasGas usa site has some info on the bikes. Please keep in mind, there may be local variations, so you should check and verify with your GG dealer. 2011 pro http://www.gasgas.com/2011_pro.htm 2010 Raga - note caption says 2011, but shows a 2010. The new 2011 (with Chassis changes) is not out yet http://www.gasgas.com/2011_raga.htm The big differences are: Magnesium Engine cases on the Raga, vs AL on the Pro. Saves a few pounds. Keihin Carb and Raga Manifold Vs Dellorto on Pro Some of the little things are, upgraded brakes, rims, hubs, bearing throttle, bars ect.. In the Past, the Raga had a upgraded DID rear wheel (no rim band) and the Pro had a standard Morad. For 2011, The US based bikes claim the Std 2011 pro will have the Morad DID style rim as well. I would advise checking with your dealer on that, as I have seen photos of the Std 2011 bikes w/o the DID style rim. These may have been early shipment bikes, and the bikes that are shipping now will get the DID style. In the past, there has also been some suspension differences. For instance, The Racing version gets a Ohlins Shock. $2000 seems like a huge markup. The Markup for a Raga in the USA is About 10% over the cost of a Std bike. edit - strange - the post above mine was not there earlier in the day and was a 20011 sherco post instead. Anywho - looks like you have the Ausie answers from Arnoux and the good news is your not looking at 2K. The Raga is one heck of a bike for the money IMO - in the USA anyway. Still, most mortals will never use the "added" capability over the TXT.

Some people vent there covers to prevent water getting sucked in when a hot engine is rapidly cooled by water. (forms a strong vacuum when crossing a deep stream and will draw water into the side case - not just straight condensation). My bike has a hose from the cover vent hole up to the top of the Rad. I have noticed that the electrics stay drier than my last bike that didnt have this feature and suspect this happens more than people think. JSE wrote a nice explanation with photos of his setup and a trick way to vent the side case. (it was in the GG forum, but I think the water is probably brand agnostic...)

I heard one of Ossa's sponsors offered some awesome new riding clothes....

Try Ryan. https://secure.rypusa.com/catpage.cfm?cat_selected=67

The click test procedure mentioned above is in this video - about 6 1/2 minutes into it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A80n7zq80n8

Have you properly adjusted the fuel/air screw? Could be too lean. Also, have checked for air leaks? If the bike was running properly and developed the isse, I would check those items 1st. If it always did this, I would call your dealer and verify the correct jetting.

LOL...I was around when at Woodstock the best advice was to - "look out for the purple Acid", Nowadays, more relevant advice is to "look out for the pink tranny fluid"...

I have never tried to make a GG clutch faster, so dont have any tested advice other than going to a 05 or older belville spring. They are about 20% stiffer. I would also try a different brand of ATF. Ive always found the fluid to have a impact on engagement speed. I would try a different MC if that didnt work. As stated above, force yourself to get used to using the inside of the lever to minimize travel distance. One interesting side point - I have found that the THICKEST plate, needs to go in the basket 1st. There is a recessed lip in the bottom of the clutch basket and the 1st plate has to be above or its effectively not in the stack. Last time I brought this up, many thought I was on drugs. All I know is that it works on my bikes.

250 gasser had a head leaking problem. note: Only has an inner and outer oring - no individual stud orings on the gasser. my problem (I think) was that the inner OEM oring was stretched too tight as the s3 head groove was aprox 2.5mm larger than stock head. Mine was a very small leak and a PITA to track down. After several failed attempts, with new stock orings, I recently installed a larger oring and that fixed the problem on that bike. (many Thanks to Brad at RYP for help finding larger oring - great customer service!) Another thing - 10ftlbs sounds low - are you re tourqueing the head after a heat cycle? you should. Call RYP is problem persists.

Not to Hijack the thread - but is that a custom made header pipe Jon - I seem to recall you mentioning that awhile back, and it looks longer than stock.

GG switched to a larger rubber flap and you can get even larger ones that folks use in the SSDT ect.. check your local dealer or online.

Am curious to see the air filter layout - maybe the next test will unveil whats underneath the cover. I was impressed with the seemingly large size of the clutch and transmission clusters in the pics - looks durable.

You can find plenty of quality modern bikes in the 2K range. They will have as u suspected, better everything. You will also be able to get parts easier and sell it easier if you dont happen to like it. I agree - trying a few bikes is ideal - there all good, but you will most likely find that you have a definate preference.

heres the GG chasis number guideline - They switched to a letter based code in 04. the E would indicate a 2004 model. TRIAL MODEL CHASSIS NUMBERS 1993~2003 Example: VTRGG 2800 0200 9955 VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 2800 = 280 model, year 2000 0200: 02 = Manufacture month. (2ND month) February. 00 = Year of manufacture 2000. 9955 = sequential chassis number (9,955th built in this year.) 2004~2007 Example: VTRGG 3002 E054 9955 VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 3002: 30 = 300 model. 02 = (02 = year of Europe homogulation N/A USA) E054: E = 2004 ALPHA CODE FOR MODEL YEAR. 05 = Manufacture month (5TH month) May. 4 = Year of manufacture 2004. 9955 = sequential chassis number. (9,955th built in this year.)