laser1

I used dot 5 on my last bike w/o problems. Im pretty sure its OK, but better check if they changed the seals in 2010 or somthing.

As much as I would like to give the benefit to the rider - these guys cheat if not watched like a hawk. (minders especially). I wonder if/when trials will have video review....

2007 1st year of black powder coat frame. Pretty easy to tell if its at least that new. There will also be a 28 stamped on the base of the cylinder for a 280 - along with the vin# showing its a 04 280. Big difference in value between a 04 and 07, I hope you got a great deal or can return it.

was at a trials today and we all couldnt believe that Pat did it again! Big Cheers thoughout the crowd. Everyone was very happy for him and Ryan.

Congrats to Pat, Ryan and Team Sherco for a great result. Keep them comming!

I thought they had the rear brake setup off the handlebar - I dont think its a clutch. Didnt see a foot pedal either - didnt look extensively though.

what are your observations regarding the change? what temp and altitude were you at?

You can add a S3 High Comp head. Will add power everywhere - maybe add a flywheel weight in combination for more torque off the bottom.

Kev - The stock bar clamps are two position. usually, they come set them up in the rearward, closer to the rider, position. If you remove them and flip them around you can adjust them front to back or visa-versa. If you go with the tall renthalls or stay stock, you may want to try the forward clamp position for more room front to back. There is no correct answer, and is a personal preference. Many tall riders find they get used to the stock bars. Im 6'2" and always liked the stock bars with the bars in the forward position on my 08. I personally found the front end plowed too much when I tryed the s3 risers. It may be (likely) that I just never got used to the change as I only tryed them for 1 ride and switched back. Good luck with the new bike.

I believe in the level of competition makes you better theory, and think Pat would be well served to go ride/live in Europe. He has mad skills, but would learn alot from the masters of the sport. I wonder how he balances out the whole enduro cross thing as well. Does this help or hurt him? I think its helping the sport of trials in the US overall, but worry its a distraction for Pat. (maybe a better paying distraction??) He is Mentored by one of the best in the buisness, so I have faith. Go Pat!

I encourage you to try different pilots and feel the difference for yoursel. Based on being at 3 and 1/2 turns out with the 33, I think your about as lean as I would make it now. But I like alot of power off the bottom and tune for aprox 3 turns out on the fuel screw - so I would try a 35 and also check it with a leaner needle setting. If you happen to end up liking the feel of the "smoother" 30, just check you dont get any pinging after you chop the throttle after a long climb and your not more than 4T out. Cheers.

Yah - we have to do the same. For years, I thought they just jetted them rich for "break in", but found out there are big differences in the fuel - including the price. Evidentally the stock jetting is good to go over there.

Nigel is right - different gas will effect the jetting -as will air temp and pressure, oil ratio's, engine condition, over oiling air filters ... ect... Thats why its important to understand the way to properly set them up and also to just experiment and try it for yourself. The avg sea level bike in the USA uses a 38 pilot, the UK seems to go 34 -35 range. 30 is probably too lean even with UK gas, but easy enough to try. You may love it. FWIW: The pilot jet and fuel screw effect both the pilot and progression circuit and has a major effect on power to 1/8 turn throttle openings and tapers off till 1/4 turn. The progression circuit also effects the mixture with throttle chops (engine can go too lean if not rich enough fuel screw setting is used) You CAN use the fuel screw setting as a rough gauge for pilot jet sizing. Too far out - needs a bigger pilot. To far in, need a smaller. Here some good bathroom reading. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_...a_guide_1.1.pdf http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_...orto_manual.pdf

depends on the carb. The PHBL will run like a very smooth 200 off the bottom with a real lean pilot. The power is very muted - you can here it as well. IMO, the PHBL has a very inefficient pilot ciruit and needs a rich setting. That said- they are about as simple and trouble free as they get. I find I can run a very lean (in comparison) pilot in the VHST and not lose power while still smoothing out the very bottom. Wheres your fuel screw (turns out) now?

If you look at the GG part numbers - they are the same for all there TXT trials bikes in a given model year and across the years in question as well. so my guess is that your safe to assume it will fit.

head spacer, slow throttle, 10t.

Thats the CDI switch and changes the ignition mapping to one of two pre grogrammed curves. Your right, one is set to produce full power (sun) and the other set to produce softer power (rain). It been on all the GG's for a few years now. BTW: not a huge difference between the two settings - the rain setting is most noticable at higher rpms. You can take it off and just have the sun setting (open circuit) all the time or som people like to put it in a different location - like on the rad hose (where the 2010's have them)

FWIW: Ive seen a few Duc CDI's go bad.

The regional venacular is: Wicked Good Job Guys. ! and in some parts of Massachusetts, Wicked Pissa Good Job is even better....

I wish we could get those bike vans over here - nice! Oh yah, he's a great rider who looks to really enjoy his work - lucky guy.

Yes - Works well. Use ATF-F if you want a quick / hard hitting clutch. On a 300, you may get alittle slip (still probably OK) if you use GM Autotrak II transfer case fluid.

I use between 380 and 400ml. 400 dead empty. Site glass should indicate around 2/3 to 3/4 full. Change often!

My guess is that the reasoning may make more sense from an advanced riders perspective, i.e. one who is using the clutch and higher revs for aggresive moves. If it was a simple ignition advance curve, #2 would have less idle but more top end hit. Maybe too aggresive for wet conditions? I know on the GG, the "rain" setting doesnt do much until the upper rev range. I agree with you, it would be nice for the club rider to dial up a softer everywhere curve - maybe when we have direct injection bikes, we'll be able to screw up, I mean, customize the perfect characteristics for our styles.

This is a great Idea, we need to send more of our young stars to Europe to compete with the best in the world. Is this still a valid, and upto date donation method? http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....rt=#entry127271 If so, and can be verified, I will put a link on our trials website to help get the word out and sure others would do the same.

I think the concept of a scorpa T-Ride is a good one. Now if it were only cheaper and available! How about a "economy" 2T pampera with more of a slant towards trials. (pegs already back - or adjustable)