laser1

Not to mention a near perfect balance of fill flash and ambient light - Pops the face in a fairly dark setting w/o being washed out. ......

My guess is that they have somthing special planned.

Never listen to GG advice from a Beta rider....

+1 RichT. Also - make sure you apply a THIN coat.

I was involved with the computer storage buisness, in the batamindo ind park - was eventually bought out by Panasonic when the industry took a header. I played several other courses there - always trying to get out in front of the crowds coming in from singapore. Many fun memories come to mind. I think you will love the 250. Its really the best club level bike IMHO. Many of the top riders here ride them and do amazing things on them. I can crash any of the models equally well.... Definately stay tuned in and let us know how you like it. Pics of Nagoya too! Good luck

Hi Kevo, Several years ago, I used to travel to our manufacturing facility in Batam on a regular basis. Never saw any trials bikes over there - but plenty of 2t scooters buzzing about! Used to use them as taxis when feeling lucky. I'll never forget playing golf at "Palm Spring" golf course. Interesting place - glad I was able to experience it. Like others said, the 250 usually does better "between the ribbons" for clubman level riders, as the power is alittle smoother and easier to master. I have a 250 and it seems to get better grip in the wet slippery stuff than the stock 280's. (i assume you will have some slippery conditions...) That said, we have had good luck with head spacers taming the 280's more abrupt mid range and smoothing things out. The good news is that the 2010 has the S3 head with the adjustable comp insert! Sooo, if you end up feeling like you want to slow the bike down to improve grip/control and a slow throttle and gearing doesnt do it, then this would be a very easy thing to change. In terms of spares, a new bike shouldnt need much, I might stock a waterpump and clutch master cylinder rebuild kits along with the std consumables (your dealer should have) like levers, sparkplugs, plastic, handlebars ect... Also - I had never heard of gassers "falling off" in power in six months - 6 years maybe. Enjoy the new bike - and good luck in Batam!

Dang Ham - Thats some funny stuff...

Nice Job Dan. Me like the pretty pictures.....

Thanks for the info Bob - Looks like a good place.

Hey Bob - Did you put a HD spring in the front? If so, where did you aquire it?

You wouldnt be the 1st one to experience that problem...glad it was an easy fix.

Interesting Jon - Thats a mystery as all of the lighter 06 springs we have measured (20+) have been between 0.058 and 0.060" (1.5mm) The older ones were closer to 1.6mm. My dad was puzzled as well. He called Tim and had him measure what was in stock and measured 1.5mm...strange. If it was anyone else, I would write it off as your measurement error, but your credentials preclude that conclusion...darn! Im a big fan of the DOT 5 trick as well - I know the new top hats have been honed for a few years now (we used to have the old ones honed), but we dont polish them - what do you use as a substrate/polish? Does it noticably improve the feel over even the honed ones? (I would seem to think the honed surface would help reduce stiction)

Where did you get a 1.4mm spring?

OK - You have a small correction to apply to the method I showed you. One thing about the keihin that is different from the dellorto carb shown in the video and described in my below method is that the screw you adjust to set the fuel/air mix is actually a AIR screw. With the air screw, turning the screw out lets more air in=leaner. This requires you to turn the screw all the way out at the start (aprox 4 turns) to achieve the over lean condition described in the video (definate lean bog). FYI - All all the carbs I am familiar with: Air screw = (lean = out, to increase air) located on air box side of needle Fuel screw = (lean = in, to reduce gas) located on piston side of needle The Keihin is an excellent carb and comes std on the RAGA model GG's. All the other bikes come with a Dellorto as std equipment. Depending on temp and altitude, you may want a richer pilot in your bike. If you do a search, I think there are many threads on Keihin jetting. As Dale mentioned in the video, if you end up at an extreem position setting of your air screw, then the pilot jet should be changed. I personally would change the the jet to a richer one, if for instance, I ended up screwing the air screw only 1/2 turn or less from fully closed as the prefered setting using the WOT method. Ideally, about 1 1/2 turns out is good. FYI - The air screw adjustment is not a static (set and forget) setting. It needs to be properly adjusted depending on how the air entering the bike changes. Hot temp - would need a leaner air screw adjustment setup(bike gets less O2 in hot weather) Hot & Humid - Even leaner than above as additional O2 is displaced by Water. Cold temp - Would need richer adjustment setup - cold air has more O2 molecules Also - not sure this was mentioned before - but make sure the bike is warmed up well, before you mess with the air screw. (I tell people to make sure the fan has cycled on/off a few times)

Your either measuring one of the steel clutch plates (2A was 1.3mm) or someone turned down a std spring - way too much. GG never made a 1.3mm spring.

Doesnt really matter what direction you approach the solution from. Dale's method may be easier to follow. Also, I tend to use a very low idle, so I tend to optimize it if it's idling too high or too low. The idle in the video is higher than I use, so he didnt end up stalling the bike when he went real lean to start. Assuming that your bike is working correctly other than the fuel screw setting, if your right on the lean threashold, you will sometimes get an intermitant response depending on what load and carb circuit the fuel/air is transitioning from. IMO - The std PHBL 26mm dellorto runs best with a fairly rich pilot circuit. What is your current jetting setup and fuel screw position?

Set the fuel screw: 1) Lower idle way down till almost stall 2) When Idle speed has completely settled down, VERY quickly and deliberately, give the throttle a wide open pull. Listen for a low engine bog (lean bog) - the engine will not "come upto power" quickly, and hesitates while producing a bogging sound. 3) lean fuel/air screw 1/2 turn. Fuel screw = turn in. Air screw = turn out 4) repeat2 and 3 until you can "just" detect an obvious lean bog. (adjust idle speed accordingly after each iteration) 5) Add aprox 3/4 turn (richer) There is a fuel screw adjustemnt video on here somewhere that Dale M made (GG USA) and is very helpful as you can hear what im talking about. Cant seem to find it at the moment. Found it - See vid#12. About 75% of the way through. http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...f/media/gasgas/ Cloud/Sun setting - is a dual map ignition setting. Sun = revs out fully. Cloud&Rain= (mud) setting and the ignition advance is less aggresive. Not a huge difference.

The Neta rules say "approved" motorcycle helmet - whatever the heck that means. I figured they would specify snell or dot certification, but no - just approved. I can make some official looking "approved" helmet stickers pretty cheap...alot cheaper than losing teeth..The only thing missing from the saferacer helmet is a buckle that rusts quickly - then its an official trials helmet.

That was an interesting read. Some wild looking font ends on that "poor" BMW. I think Dan's point about down hill steps is a valid concern - time will tell. hopefully...

What is the thickness of your clutch spring (Belville washer) - maybe an older (pre 06) spring found its way back into the bike?? They were stiffer. The 06's went to a nominal thickness of 0.060". Anything thicker is old.

I think its really a matter of preference. You should try a 10t for yourself and compare. Can certainly change depending on what terrain you ride as well.

The std GG springs in a 250 should be 1.5mm thick. If you stuck a 1.2mm thick belville type in, your clutch will slip under hard acceleration and your acctuation point would change outside the adjustment range. Even a .1mm change in thickness is a big change in spring K (It changes as the cube of the thickness). Have you seen these? http://www.jackscycles.com/lpse.html My dad makes them and puts them in alot of bikes - including mine. Ideal in a 250. Makes for a lighter and more progressive clutch feel. Great in wet conditions. The down side is that if your an expert rider and want a quick clutch for doing splatters, then pass. You can buy Lipse springs to fit your bike and riding style (thicker for aggressive riders, but still a lighter pull than stock) - they are not just a thinner spring, but also have a full thickness inner ring so the accuation point isnt upset. The flatness spec of these springs is the same as the OEM spring. (very tight)

Does the bike also shift hard in some gears as well. For instance, it hard to get into second - or maybe it upshifts into 2nd OK, but hard to down shift form 3rd?? If so, it's possible you just need to adjust the eccentric preload adjuster on the shift shaft. If you watch the engine repair video on the trials parts USA site, it will show you how to do it. There was a recent shifting thread that had the exact info on the video.

Is you goal to find the best bike for her to learn on or the best bike? The 200's are great starter bikes.

FWIW - IMO (It's your bike, so whatever looks good to you) White - I never thought this was a good color for a bike motor. Gold - Original color is always best for resale and I think looks nice as it differentiates the R model Green"ish" - Not the most attractive color- but more current. Black - Universally used. A safe choice. Nice contrast with the Chrome frame. Red - Flash back to the older GG's.