laser1

Use a smart charger - basically dont charge them too fast or over charge. ALWAYS - store them charged. Dont drain them until fully depleted. Most folks dont think of the battery until they want to ride - alittle forethought goes a long way toward maintaining performance.

In line with the rest of the throwback concepts, A chrome frame would look cool.

Looks like a fun launch - A Hot model and a new bike works for me. Not sure about how the exhaust is directed to the side? Maybe im seeing it wrong? would seem to be safer for a riders leg to route it down. (Maybe I just spend too much time behind and off the bike...)

My buddy's 08 rev 3 came with a Keihin. Doesn't even p*** gas..

Here is a GasGas video (hosted by a fellow TC rider) that shows (with audio) how to setup the air/fuel screw. Note: the carb adjustment procedure that your interested in is about 75% of the way into the video. Also Note: The Dellorto carb on the GasGas utilizes a fuel screw - adjusts the fuel rather than air to the pilot circuit. - Your bike uses an air screw - so your procedure will be backwards - you will need to start with the air screw out (lean) and turn it in (richer). http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...adjustments.wmv Tips - I think: Make sure the egine has been completely warmed up - fan has cycled a couple times ect... I always adjust the idle speed to be very low - just above stall. It will change as you get richer (run faster - so readjust it as needed) Give the throttle a very quick, full open spin and release. I use kinda a finger flick. slow is N/G. Its important to let the revs come all the way back down before doing another full throttle wack. Like mentioned in the video - if you need to have the AS at an extreem position, then its time to change the pilot jet. (& make sure its clean) Its good to make sure you can get a definate lean bog and go richer until you cant detect it any more - another half turn richer from that point is usually good. I also find a big hill, rip up the hill (with the engine hot) and chop the throttle at the top. You should not hear any engine detonization or your air screw is too lean still. (Maybe just a "hint" of det is OK if you normally dont ride like that)

Maybe not it, but If you only tried going richer by 1/4 turn from your original setup, I would try going in (less air = richer) some more (at least 1/2 turn in from your original) just to see what happens. 1/4 turn can be hard to notice. 1/2 turn usually obvious to most folks if you dont have other issues. Do you notice any lean bog if you wack the throttle wide open quickly? I usually lower the idle and adjust the AS unitl i can detect a lean bog when quicklt opened full, then go richer by 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I wouldnt take the weight off unless your sure (verify) the jetting is correct. Is there another 2010 you can compare it to? Dealer have one? Have you tried a different batch of gas? Sorry if this AS setting is wasting your time, but have had this work well for several folks. Best regards

While it could be a number of factors, I think you should check the air screw. The factory setting is a mere starting point - it is NEVER a static setting on ANY bike. If you just set it per the book - its surely not perfect. Variations from bike to bike - like float level or gas type will require tweaking for proper optimization. Temperature and pressure (altitude) directly effect air denisty, as does humidity, and would obviously effect the air screw setting- If your revs are hanging, it's likely lean on the pilot circuit/air screw. Is it cold out? your engine is getting more air and the proper air screw optimization can make a real difference. The 2nd thing I suggest - especially if the air scew has to be adjusted ALOT and still doesnt totally fix the problem is a air leak - usually around the reed block. Good luck with the new bike - sounds real nice.

The 36V has a 750w motor and 3 10ah batteries, vs the 600W motor and 2 14ah (upgraded in 08) batteries in the 24V. Proper recharging and storage of the batteries will greatly extend there life and performance.

A quick search and Voila- I think what you want is right after the kawasaki part number info. http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/jetneedles.html

Sounds like its lean on the pilot/air screw.

Many sizes to choose from. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.a...roduct_id=32771

The above morph was a joke - Since there was no official info avaliable, We were left to speculate. The final rendition of the bike, sent in from many die hard Sherco riders - came out to this: http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x197/ja...2010_beer-1.jpg

Im a spry 6'2" 275 with gear, and large camel back. When I ordered mine, there wasnt an option for 10% springs, but I would have fallen into the 20% cat anyway. I think you will like the 10% setup - even though 10% doesnt sound like much, its very noticable. (At least it was in my forks) Let us know how you like them and the new bike. Riding the bike in stock trim before any change is a wise choice.

No worries Adrian- Thanks for the clarification. The stiffer suspension really transformed my riding, I went from "sucks really bad" to "doesn't suck so bad" almost overnight!

I think there pretty similar overall. The 08's have the footpegs repositioned a bit further back - Improves the balance IMO. 08's Seem to shift smoother as well.

Im unfortunately intimately aware of the well documented KS failures - would love to know what specifically has been improved. The latest change that I know of was the "quicker" pawl enguagement provided by the new spiral angle KS shaft. Anyone know what else the KS's on the 2010's have?

Sounds like you didnt get the seal on the WP shaft correctly. Did you watch the jim Snell video on how to correctly install? The fan bearings sound like there toast as well - a side effect of a fan thats constantly running or subject to the pressure hose. Did the bike ever overheat? Run Dry?

Silly me, and here I thought information was what the OP wanted....I guess I should just stick with analogys instead.

Thw 2010 has an "improved" kick start mechanism. Anyone know specifically what the improvements are? BNG?

In terms of mixing and matching, my experience has been a good one. I cant think of any mechanical reason why this is a problem. I have had conversations with Adrian about my setup with stiffer springs and the only thing he mentioned to me was that he wanted to keep the spring install identical to stock (keep the preload spacers ect..) so that there was no (less) confusion on how they were assembled. (Note - My HD fork springs were from the old supplier and dont use the preload spacers) Also - dont forget that it takes several hours to break in the Marzocchi's - they can be pretty stiff for the 1st 10 hours or so. I put the stiffer spring in the rebound side and ended up using the stock weight oil and level. (I assumed incorectly I would need more rebound damping, but changed back to the 7.5 wt and like it) I added about a 1/3 turn more damping to the rear. I was suprised how little adjustment the Sacks shock needed to make a noticable difference.

Thank you for clearing that up.

Anyone have a translation of the translation?

If you like to do alot of big hits, and like to hop, the stiffer springs will be better, but there is a trade off with feel and compliance over the small stuff. If you ride alot of slippery, muddy events, maybe error on the soft side is a better tradeoff. I went with 20% in the rear and ended up with only 1 20% spring in the front (net 10%) - the forks (Zokes) were already pretty stiff and I wasnt bottoming them hard like the rear. It took some getting used to, and some setup changes, but I really like it. The bike rides alot more lively and the energy I put in, I can get back. (I just really overwhelmed the stock springs - the sag was way off (I was panning out on alot of stuff) and the bike geometry suffered) I think the avg 180 to 200lb rider would be well suited with the 10% stiffer rear spring only. Your right in the "could go either way" zone, so it will really depend on your riding preference. I think anyone over 230 to 240lbs with gear on will want the 20% rear for sure. Dont forget you can mix and match the fork springs to get a combined spring rate.

Nope - Those are the new "regular" 10 bikes. All the bikes have the new adjustable comp heads as well as several other feathures previously only found on the Raga's.

Maybe thats why the torque setting is so high..??? Thats up there.