laser1

Since it revs out when going lean as it runs out of gas, I would therefore guess your overly rich (would help starting as well) Now, for the source of being overly rich. Choke on or stuck Floats in upsidedown or height buggered bad Fuel valve rubber tip is damaged and letting gas pour into carb non stop. (does gas drip out overflow??) I would also just verify you are getting good fuel flow. Also - what does the plug look like when checking it after running and it wont rev out. (note - dont shut off the gas - just kill it)

No - I typically start my bike in gear - 1st kick no problem hot or cold. If you wack and slap at it, your askin for problems. Did you ever try anyone elses Gasser? Did you have a hard time starting there bike? A hard starting bike is a real drag. I find using a NGK BPR5EIX - irdium plugs gapped at 0.022" to 0.024" help make my bikes easier to fire up. 300's (and many of the big bore trials bikes) are harder to start for most people just because of the extra compression. Any 250 07 or 09 or 05, should be very easy to start if you have good leg strenght or alot of extra girth like me. (yes- I knew all that beer drinking would finally payoff...) For light riders, you need to make sure you improve your leverage - like standing above the bike so your knee isnt bent too much. We put a head spacer in a 250 for a very light woman customer and she found she could start the bike easier - she eventually switched to a 200 and loves it cause it starts so easy everytime. ( I could start it with my hand!) If you like the gasser, but are afraid that you'll have the same old PITA starting issues, talk to you dealer and buy the bike under the condition you can start it w/o having a stroke.

I would spray all under tank connections and plug hood with WD40 and try again.

+1 on above. If you kick it right, you wont have a problem - wrong and all bets are off. I did see that the 2010 info suggested a new modified KS mechanism. Thats a good move IMO.

Any good full synthetic is preferred. I disagree with the above statement that full synthetics cause splouge. Its running overly rich oil ratio's that cause that. Full synthetics are more popular for trials due to the fact that they can be run very lean/clean and still maintain excellent motor protection.

On my 08 Zokes - There is an obvious 13mm (I think its 13mm) nut underneath the cap that allows you to remove it. (pull the preload spacer back to see it) On the rebound side, Gently unscrew the outside ring nut with a large vice grip (use a cloth inside the jaw) and the cap will come off - it should not be that tight. Once the cap is out and extended in the tripple clamps, like your compression side - but extended out all the way out, If you look at the underside of the cap, (pull the preload spacer back) you will see a flat in the aluminum assembly - this is the nut that you hold to remove the cap and spring. (use a socket on the top cap) On the rebound side, the 2 Al halfs of the cap, were not initialy obvious, but upon close inspection, you can see that it comes apart. You need a narrow wrench - like bicycle wrenches to fit in there Hope this helps -

Sounds like you need to open her up and find out whats going on. You may have some problems that will only grow in expense if ignored. I dont know how comfortable you are working on your bike, but heres a couple of options. Have the shop do all the work - make sure you wash the bike before you take it in. Nobody likes working on a dirty bike. I would say you looking at 8 to 10 hours of labor. (It would take me about 10 ) Pull the motor yourself and have the shop split the cases and do the tranny work. Put the motor back in yourself. To me, that is more than 1/2 the work. Note: The tranny is easy to test on the bench. If you are an experienced wrench, watch the Jim Snell video's on the TriaslpartsUSA tech page and work through it yourself.

Really great place to ride - not only the awesome terrain, but sombody (you?) put in alot of work building all those ramps and tressels.

Real Nice Shots! I like your mix of angles and perspective, action and candids. Easy to see your an experienced shooter. Thanks for posting.

Thanks for all the info Mike. I'll probably turn down the outlet so I can easily compare to PBHL.

Spent a couple of hours testing pilot jets today in hot weather and familiar sections. The slow, tight uphill sections really help resolve any question regarding one jet over another. Smaller pilots = smoother power, and less of it. the #35 felt like I was riding a 200! Original pilot was the best for me. Changed it back. My buddies 250 (same gearing as mine) with a Keihin is smoother off the bottom, better feel and has just about as much power as my bike on the pilot - more everywhere else. Has very good over rev as expected. (the over rev isnt a goal for me other than just playing around) Im going to try the VHST next rather than any slide work.

I had a slight pinging issue when I was running 75/25 in my old bike - so went to 50/50. This bike would probably be OK.

I had a slight pinging issue when I was running 75/25 in my old bike - so went to 50/50. This bike would probably be OK.

I agree - anytime one introduces more variables, the outcome is bound to contain more uncertanty. Unfortunately, My bike seems to prefer higher octane than the straight pump (in the USA) can provide. I dont like the smell of straight race gas, and is more expensive, so I cut it 50/50 and always use the same supply.

Today will be a good day for testing. I have a range of pilots and will try the clip in the very top position as well. Thanks for everyones sound advice. MotoMerlin - I do have access to a VHST (My Dad has one off a 03 GG I believe), so would be very interested in your recomendation regarding setup for my 250.

I heard that too, and that your bikes were spot on over there as delivered. Too rich on the main and needle here - need to drop the needle as a minimum. Something about the difference in the gas??? Dont know, maybe its a tuning conspiracy. I kinda figured they were break in settings. My personal reason is probably more due the fact that im an engineer and can't ride worth a darn - so Im left with experimentation and crashing. My current setup (that works pretty darn good on my 250 in New England) is: Main = 112 (just switched from a 115 now that its summer) Plug looks like the color of cardboard with W/O plug checks. Pilot = 38 (trying a 36 right now) Fuel screw = just under 3 turns out (almost 3 1/2 with the 36) - not static settings Needle = D36 (stock - no other needle looks very close) Clip = 2nd from top Atomizer = 270 (I think - stock ) Slide = #60 (stock and largest avail) Fuel = 50/50 93 pump/110 Race gas Oil = 100:1 Amsoil

Im there and back. Thats good advice and the 1st thing I do before any carb changes. Bike runs very good - just wanted to know if there was hot setup for the mid summer solution. (pun intended) Tried a 36 pilot, seems about the same other than needing the fuel screw out more. Will be very hot & humid here tomorrow, so will check again before trying any slide mods.

I'll try a smaller pilot 1st- certainly easier than grinding the slide. I always thought that 60 meant 6mm of cutaway like you said, but the cutaway looks bigger than 6.0mm on the Dellorto. I didnt measure it, so its probably just me. Your right about the flatslide, I always liked the keihin equiped bikes Ive ridden.

Thanks for the info about the PHBH Jon. The online documentation I saw on it was confusing as they had one drawing for both carbs and listed the part numbers like they were interchangable. When I set the fuel screw, and do quick WOT tests, it revs clean and quick - no bog, no sputter. If I ride it and give it slow 1/8 throttle tests, it feels rich. It also 4 strokes if ridden down the road at steady 1/8 & 1/4 throttle. Since the fuel screw is already about 3 to 3 1/2 turns out depending on temp/humidity, I didnt think the switch to a leaner pilot was in order. (I should test that logic) I can drop the needle one more notch and will try it next outing, but felt it wouldnt impact right off idle. Im thinking of buying another 60 slide and keep machining 2mm off until it revs up off better - or run out of slide....I do appreciate the physics of the summer, and that may just be it. Seems good on top though. (I did recently switch to a 112 main from a 115 in the cooler weather)

Anybody ever lean out the slide? Its hot and humid here in New England and my bike isnt picking up revs off the bottom like it did in the cooler months. I have the stock Dellorto slide (#60) and noticed that there isnt a bigger one offered. Does the PHBH slide fit? That goes to 70.

I find the Iridium tiped plugs help the bikes start easier. (Gap = 0.6mm) Make sure you get good leverage on the Kicker. 300's can be difficult to start if you dont kick it right. Also - NEVER slap at the lever, ALWAYS make sure you can feel it enguage before laying into it. (or you will break the KS pawl or chip the Idler gear)

When I read your OP, I thought you were complaining that it was geared too low. I figured, wow, you must really carry alot of speed in the sections if your reving it real high with that gearing. The 11/42 is great on a 300, but too tall for the 250 IMO. Most folks run the 10T as Jordi mentioned above. I like the 43 on the rear as well (the old stock gearing was 11/43)

If your bike is jetted correctly, It will love to rev. Let it sing! Of course there's that shifting thing I hear people talk about as well....

That would be the 1st thing I checked as well.

How much oil did you put in? As a long shot, Make sure the fender brace isnt causing forks to bind. Are they smooth off the bike?