laser1

Go do the trial. Focus on having fun. Walk the sections to find the best line. Get wide early in the corners, weight the outside peg. Watch what others are doing. Drink lots of water. Have fun again.

If you dont have the bolt threaded into anything, then the Clutch slave & slave spring would keep in in place anyway. Did the bolt break?

Advanced riders can prefer a fast clutch for doing things like splatters. Novices are usually better off with a slower clutch lockup to help aid control. The enguagement point can be adjusted in or out to suit you preference. How agresive or fast the clutch comes in can be altered with springs and fluids. For instance, the Pro clutch will be quicker using ATF-F rather than somthing with more lubricity like tranny oil or transfer case fluid.

Break-in? Jetting? Do you have the same gearing? The taller gearing can make it feel that way right off the bottom.

Any update?

I would pop the caps off and measure it. As I remember, the Aluminum caps are two piece assembly's with the spring retaining nut threaded into them. It can look like a one piece solid assembly at 1st glance. ( the rebound side) - I would have sworn I used more fluid than whats listed, but didnt measure the volume and just rely'd on the height in the tube. I have also seen other PDF's that listed 270cc for each side on the AL Zokes. (more like what I would have guessed I put in)

Couple of buddies on Shercos tried ARC levers and they didnt seem to get much effect - not enough for them, maybe a better rider would notice the difference. Do you just use shorties? I know exactly what you mean on the slower enguagement on the -2 springs and different fluids. I have recently switched to a lighter spring on my Pro and found the same thing. Like you said - tradeoffs.

What are you using for clutch lube? Some (like ATF-F) can be pretty grabby. Also - you can take 2 opposing springs out (250cc) if the clutch is in otherwise good shape and it will help make it much more progressive. I have seen were some recomend different levers as well, but have not heard of good results with that.

Go small and go slow. An 8 y/o on a full size bike is like an adult riding a 400 lb bike. Its easy to go fast on a big heavy bike, but going slow over rough terrain is another matter - not to mention trying to save the bike. The comparison to his std dirt bike just doesnt apply IMO. Rider confidence is huge in this sport. I'd get a used Oset 16, a beta 50 or at most a small wheel 80 (GG cadet is nice) if he's a really big 8 y/o. If you buy a used bike, you can turn it over when needed and not loose much money.

Sounds like you are about right with the fluid volume - 2/3 on site glass is common. I would say the change to the mineral oil compatible clutch seal is common - if that's what he mean. there were some upgrades to the tranny and clutch as well, but not sure anyone would do it unless they lunched the original. If drag is a problem, check your clutch pak/finger height specs (swollen plates if older clutch materials?) and use ATF-F or GM AutotrakII. Some use less fluid as well (350cc) - helps reduce drag.

not a beta expert, but one thing is that draging the brake will heat up the fluid to the point of boiling - hence expanding and locking on the brake. Water in the system will make it even worse. I would flush my rear brake system with fresh fluid and figure out why it was draging. (I like dot5 for its high boiling point)

+1 PeterB. I took 2 springs out of my edition as well. Didnt need to add any washers. Switched to GM autotrakII in the tranny and dot5 in the hydraulics. Smooth as silk clutch after that. Best thing I ever did for that bike.

The rumor I heard was Raga didnt like the flex of the Mg Swingarms. The old Mg sidecase was pretty flexible as well and replaced with Al.

400cc will fill to about 3/4 of sight glass. 550 is too much and as mentioned will blow out overflow. Change it often as it's what lubes the mains on the pro.

The 2001 edition manual you saw is good to use. I think only the graphics were different between the 01 and 02 Editions. The Pro was introduced in 2002 and is a completely different bike.

NGK BP5ES, BP5EV work well. An 8 would be very cold for this bike. Gap to 0.6mm Note - I am refering to a GasGas 300 pro - not a Fantic. I was thinking somthing was weird since you listed a GG250 and wouldnt know the plug...Now i know I probably had the wrong bike.

It sounds like you have the clutch belville spring and the steel clutch plates mixed up. It dawned on me that you may not have the clutch plates back in the right order - you need to make sure the thickest one goes in 1st.

around 80:1 with a high quality synthetic oil.

Assuming everything is mechanically sound, If you want it to be less grabby(slower enguagement) , using GM autoTrakII transfer case fluid (blue in color) works better than ATF. I recently ran out of the autotrak and used ATF, onl;y to remember why the autotrak is prefered. I think most novice riders would benefit from it. Experts and pro's tend to like a fast clutch and use ATF. The downside is that it costs more than ATF.

Sounds like you may have an air leak somewhere - I'd check the iintake/reed block 1st.

Are you sure its not just 4 stroking? Thats common with these bikes if there running rich under partial throttle w/no load. I had a 280 02 edition that would ping under long partial throttle or extended high loads, turned out to be a fuel restriction. Was fine just putting around in sections.

3 to 3 1/2 turns out on the fuel screw is common in the USA near sealevel - but will depend on the pilot jet size. We tend to run a richer pilot here than you will need in the UK (gas is different is what I was told) FWIW:You should tune the air screw according to performance, not a set number. Warm up the bike to normal op temp. Make sure your idle speed is set to a fairly low rpm, but the bike doesnt stall. Grab a huge handfull of throttle and quickly wack it open to full throttle (twist as quick as you can and release). When the air screw is too lean (too much air) , the bike will bog before reving up. You will want to richen(turn in) the air screw (less air) untill the bog goes away and the bike revs quickly w/o hesitation/bogging. If you make it too rich, (go too far) the bike will start to burble and wont rev as quick. Too rich isnt as obvious as too lean. I usually find it easiest to start on the lean side with an obvious bog, when you can just make out a very slight bog still, about another 1/2 turn will probably get you pretty close. This is a relative thing though. You should try and develop a good ear for this, as most bikes like to be optimized according to temp/humidity/track ect - Note: above procedure was written for bike with air screw - fuel screw will adj in the opposite manner.

If you have a air screw - out = more air = leaner. If you have a fuel screw - out = more gas = richer. Most delortto carbs on the GG's use a fuel screw. Regardless, You can tell its a fuel screw as its located on the reed block side of the slide. An air screw, as used on the Keihins are on the airbox side. You should definately be able to resolve 1/2 turn of difference on the adjustment, and 1/4 turn when you get a feel for it.

If your leaking through the spokes - then yes, your rim strip may be damaged/unseated. If you replace it, I like the new ones with the integrated /sealed valve base. Seem to hold air better. However, its not uncommon to have to pump up the tire 1 psi or so before each ride. When using the tubed tires, what pressures did you run - I'll bet it was higher than on the tubeless. I always had problems when going fast - trying to make up time on the loop and sometimes hit a sharp rock.

No tube to pinch when running low PSI. No rim strips/wheel spin/tube rips Better feel and traction Just like all the modern bikes for that last several years... I have not ridden a tube style rear wheel in many years and cant imagine going back to all the issues I used to have with tubes - especially now that the rim strips seem to seal so good on the tubless.