laser1

Thanks Frank - I was told they are using a tube style rim - but it would be really nice if your right. I kinda figured that with all the custom wheels i see here on TC, someone may have a source for these in case I need them. I know a couple of guys planning on getting these bikes and would switch to a tubless setup if we can just get a rim and re-use hub/spokes.

The new GasGas economy bike seems like a good deal, but has a tube style rear wheel. Does anyne have a source /part number for a compatible tubless rim? Im looking to re-lace a tubless rim (excel?) to the existing hub. Thanks for your help

friends 09 broke this past week after a loopout where he caught the bike, but the fender hit a rock. Fender broke at the 2 side attachment points. He was suprised it broke so easily. I hope its just a coincidence.

what jetting are you running??? You mentioned an old plug that was wrong, and a new plug. What plug are you now using? What Gap?

Yes- written on the jet. (see above numbers for reference) You should absolutely know what you have so that you can form a baseline for changes and to compare it to what others in your area succesfully run. You should also pull them (jets) to check and make sure they are CLEAN.

Looks like that would be a wise move. Did you ever look at what jets you are currently running?

Can you get yourself a ride on one?

You should always check your plug after any jetting changes. Also, Listen to the motor - if you here any pre detonation rattle (lean main) or over lean knocking when you chop the throttle (lean air screw) , then you want to rejet. In this case, it doesnt sound like it since your plug was black before (although that can be misleading). I would order up a leaner main jet so you could put the clip back near the middle. You may want to go even leaner when the hot weather arrives. When jetted and running properly, that little engine should scream pretty good. Sounds like progress.

Its easy enough to try....If the main jet is stock, then it doesnt suprise me. What jets are you running?

I got a 250pro - the 08 is the last of the black framed bikes. Bought a leftover for the right price ( I do like the new red frame bikes - but they were too expensive at the time). 280's used to be the most popular here too, but the 250 has been gaining favor as its an easier bike to ride in the somtimes slippery NewEngland terrain. Even the top pro rider here rides the 250. Im just a novice and dont compete that much, but hope to move upto intermediate now that I have the pro - The new bike instills alot more confidence in the rough stuff. Ive ridden several 280's and a couple of 300's and really like the 250 best. However, If I lived at altitude (Colorado for instance) and did alot of big hits, I would probably opt for the 300.

I loved my old 02 Edition. Very reliable bike - never a problem. Easy to ride. +1 on what others already said. Recently sold it for an 08 pro. The biggest difference I notice is how the bike invites me to ride it aggresively. The suspension is Soooo much better, the engine snappy and of course the light weight, all make it really fun to ride.

Whats the new plug look like? (what plug are you using?) If white, then re-jet. Here the starting point for the US based bikes. UK may be a tad richer. Ask a local dealer/rider what they run. From the Trialsp[artsUSA site: 1998/99 TX270 2000/01/02/03 TXT280, TXT280,TXT321, TXT280

Hi Biff - Sorry to hear it, Unfortunately, Ive seen it several times. Ive also found as the previous posters mentioned, the forks can get tweaked as well when theres that much force involved. If your forks are also damaged, make sure you get the latest type shift forks (they made some recent improvements) . One nice feature about the pro tranny, you can test it out while its open. Also - you probably know, there is a trialspartsusa video on how to adjust the shift shaft eccentric. I make certin to check the up/down from 1st to 2nd and also 3rd/4th. I find it usually takes me several attempts before I get it set right. Best of luck with it

I can see where you may want that extra film of protection at 16000 rpm, but not needed for trials bikes that operate at 1/2 that rpm and infrequently at that. The crank bearings on the GG are lubed via the tranny fluid, so the lean mix wont hurt them at all. All of my GG lasts for years w/o replates- but my bike never sees the main jet for that matter...so I personally worry more about splooge buildup in the midbox/silencer ect...There is a poll on here somewhere where most people use 80:1 and almost no one under 50:1 so I think its fairly well proven.

35:1 in a GG125?? I would say 80:1 to 100:1 The little GG isnt known for gobs of low end, but sounds like you may need to sort the jetting and air screw.

The ratchet arm assembly (part of the shift shaft - under the drum) can get bent easily as well. check it out when you have it apart.

Wondering the same thing. Anyone know?

Tube style rear wheel is in the specs I saw. I have not seen much info regarding what else to expect. I would like to know what im going to get before I lay my money down. For instance, are these reconditioned bikes from customer returns, demo bikes, minder bikes or are they all new parts? If so, what year ect...

adjustment procedure for above is about 6 1/2 minutes in. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A80n7zq80n8 Thank Jim Snell - Trialspartsusa.com

GasGas USA specs NON-Synthetic 10-40wt oils for the clutch/tranny. However, Just about everyone I ride with either uses ATF-F (fast / hard engaugement) or GM transfer case fluid - autotrac (blue stuff) for a slower, less aggresive enguagment. The ATF became very popular to avoid plate swelling back when that was an issue. Its also cheap, so you can replace it often w/o breaking the bank. My dads shop jackscycles makes the lighter spring, but I know he would tell you to make sure the clutch is working normally before installing the LiPSE spring so I would stick with OEM until your happy its working right. The lighter 06 spring with JSE's suggestions should feel very nice. The 06 spring alone is about a 20% easier pull (very noticable) as compared to the older versions. You mentioned that you measured the pak thickness and finger height. What were the readings?

It doesnt look like there are too many boy 50 experts around. I have no experience with them but my little boy rode a ktm50 centrifical clutch and it initially had very poor low end response. I eventually improved it with proper jetting. I know people do an airbox mod to the boy50's that supposedly helps them run better (along with the mods you have done). Another thing I learned was to clean the carb on a regular basis. The pilot jet passageways are so small in those little carbs that ther are very suseptable to blockage. I was always amazed at the difference a 1/4 turn of the airscrew would make on those little bikes. Good luck - I hope you get some advice from experienced boy50 owners.

I drive the pins out. The trick is not ending up with the pins on the floor and spending the next hour looking for it.

Here is a link to a good online manual about carb basics that wil help. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_...orto_manual.pdf