laser1

NGK plug codes - everything you ever wanted to know: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/tech/partnumberkey.pdf

Thanks for the info guys.

From the GasGas USA tech Tips: http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Snel...ting-specs.html 1998 TX270/1999 TXT270,TXT321/2000 TXT280,TXT321/2001 TXT280,TXT321/2002 TXT280 EDITION 02: WITH PHBL26 (26mm) SEA LEVEL TO 3,000 FEET MAIN: 114 PILOT: 36 (38 OK) NEEDLE: D36 (2nd CLIP POSITION DOWN FROM TOP) FUEL SCREW: 3.5 TURNS OUT FLOAT HEIGHT: ARMS IN LEVEL PLANE WITH FLOAT BOWL BASE (PARALLEL).

Hi - does anyone know if the 07 Raga frame geometry is the same as the 08 std bikes? I have not had a chance to compare them directly and was under the impression that in general the Raga had the next model year upgrades. Thanks Trebor

If thats the same dealer that said you have to change the clutch basket - then I would think you better give him the exact part number. Cant hurt anyway.

Steam - I saw a reply from my dad regarding your latest email on the LiPSE spring. Hope this helps. FYI: He wanted to reminded everyone that is working on there pro Clutch to be certain to lay the bike over on its side to ensure the actuation fingers dont pop out durring reassembly.

Sorry to hear you didnt get a response. Jacks was having a problem with there email via the web hosting inquiry on the web page - its now been removed to prevent such occurances. If you email him at: Jack@Jackscycles.com and copy me at TreborHeminway@Yahoo.com, I will make sure it gets through and you get a immediate reply. He is making another batch of LiPSE Springs right now as they have been gaining popularity. They work well on anything under a 300. I dont think he has any problem shipping to the UK either. My own update: Given all the softer spring tolk - I went ahead and removed two springs from my 280 edition (std wound springs) clutch. Works great. Wish I would have done it 5 years ago.

The 06 (aprox 20% lighter spring than 05) or LiPSE (aprox 20% lighter than 06) clutch springs are a direct replacement. No need to change the basket or anything else for that matter. The LiPSE works great on 250's as the 06 spring is still strong enough for a 300. (overkill on a 250/280)

Looks like it comes with its own matching trailer....

Sorry you had to learn that lesson the hard way. GasGas needs to do a better job getting the KS procedure out to the public. The Pro Kickstart pawl and idler gear are fairly thin and only engage a couple of teeth, so if you jump on it, it can break teeth off. As mentioned, if you make sure the kickstarter is fully enguaged each time you kick it, you wont have a problem. The problem is worse on 300's as they are harder to kick and folks tend to jump on them w/o making sure the gears are fully meshed 1st. If you have an older Pro and break the gear/pawl, you will find that there is a new KS shaft/Gear and they are sold as a matched set. The new style gear is marked with a B. See Jim Snells .doc for more info. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/Pro...2013%202008.doc

Thanks for the feedback and testing update Biff - The pull is butter light isnt it - Too bad it sounds like the 300 is just too much for it. It will work fine on the 280/250 - it has been used by one of the top experts in New England on his 280 - as well as a tested by a few big advanced riders. Did you have to adjust your engagement point at the lever much? I assume the 06 spring will work fine, but let us know how it goes. Take Care Trebor

Biff - good luck with the clutch. I hope he sent you one of the thicker LiPSE to help the odds of it working on the 300. It might, as Im sure there "may" be some "Raga" margin built into the std OEM spring. My Dad told me about the trick with removing the springs on my bike, but I never bothered to try it. I did switch to AutotraK II and it seemed to help alittle - but not much. It helped smooth the shifting though, so I like it on my bike never the less. Now that I feel the difference a softer/smoother clutch can make on improved ridability, I may give it a test. JSE also reminded me that my dad can get special honed master cylinders from GG. I'll bet polishing really does the trick. I'll have to pass that one on. Good point on the Ford ATF-F to help the bite. Thanks JSE. Good Luck Trebor

I spoke with Jack (my dad) and he will give you a call today. He did verify he uses dot 5 on his bikes. He thought he told this to your buddy, but you never know....He is getting on in years and forgetfull at times. (I on the other hand have no excuse) I didnt think you could adjust the finger height on the 04 to newer pro's. On the older bikes, you would swap out different thickness plates (no shims involved!) until you got the finger height in spec, but I was told that the new ones (the german clutch packs) all used matched sets of fiber/steel plates and had to be replaced as a set. Ask Jack, he's the expert on pro's. Im just recalling diffferent stories from being around riders who are really finicky about there clutch setups. I ride a 280 TXT Edition, - so not a pro guru. Let us know what you do Trebor

Thanks Spinner -Your right, I now remember that it was new in 06 - A friend of mine chenged his 05 spring out to a 06 for the reduced pull - I was thinking his bike was a 04 at 1st.

Biff - just noticed that you have a 04 pro. As mentioned, The 05 spring has a lighter pull due to the new factory spec lighter spring. (I think its 20% less than 04.) The LiPSE spring is (nominally) another 20% lighter on top of that. He does have some LiPSE springs that are slightly stiffer and some that are slightly lighter. He probably has a stock 05 spring as well. If time is of the essence, start with the stock 05 as that is fully tested.

Hi Biff, You should talk to Jack (my Dad) for a complete run down on the lighter spring. Basically he developed it for a friend that had tendonitus to reduce the pull. He has tested it on 280's and 250's and it does provide a lighter pull. However, he didnt spec it for the 300 because he worried that the extra power on the 300 (with and aggresive expert rider) would required the OEM stiffer spring. If you like a fast and aggresive clutch for doing big splatters, it's probably not a great addition - if you want to smooth out the clutch then you should give it a try. I really liked it on the bikes I tried (a 250 and 280) as it gave it a more progressive feel. If you dont mind the work of putting the spring in (pretty quick job), I would say just try it and see. Im sure he would take it back if you didnt like it. You didnt mention what year bike your on. I "think" it was 05 that the pro's went to a lighter spring to reduce the pull. The 250 ,280 and 300 all use the same one. If your on a 04 or older - maybe just the change to a 05 spring would be a good choice. These are even lighter and custom tuned to the bike (250 vs 280) and rider size and style. I know he some in stock that he could fed ex tomorrow. FYI: Im pretty sure he likes dot 5 in the clutch as well. (ask him though) Trebor

Hi Greg - You can find local trials event info here: http://www.newenglandtrials.org/ Hope to see you out there. Trebor

I forgot to add - I DONT recommend laying the bike over at 1st. You want to make ABSOLUTELY sure any possible broken bits stay out of the tranny. Drain the fluid and take the case cover off with the bike in the verticle position so nothing can get in the tranny threw the hole that is above and behind the KS shaft. This is a fairly quick job for a good GG mechanic and wont' be a ton of money. Personally, if your not an experienced mechanic - it may be best to take it to one and pay the higher rate to watch and learn. There pretty simple to work on, but there are some tricks of the trade to learn.

Sounds like you broke the kickstart gear itself - these can break on pro's if you slap at the kickstarter when kicking. To avoid this, You should press down on the kickstarter until you feel solid resistance and then kick through - otherwise you can break the small engagement teeth on the KS gear - will take a good GG mechanic less than 1 hour to repair. Dont need to drain the coolant or the top hat on the clutch - just pull off entire cover as a unit and hang to the side. Some folks like to tape the top hat in place so air dosent get in while servicing. As I remember, Will have to remove the clutch - might as well check it out while abart. Getting the return spring back in properly is alittle tricky. Make sure you get all the pieces from the broken gear. Also - keep the order of the cover bolts in mind - they are different lenghts. Never had a problem when properly kicked - but need to be aware of issue. Trebor