laser1

Spoke with Stu - says he used a 9.5mm Aluminum Oxide ball hone - 320 grit. 3 quick full length passes. Nothing real scientific as he checked for burrs with a q-tip. Before deburring - he would snag a few strands on the vent hole. After, it was smooth and snag free. Sounds silly, but worked for him. Clean and Flush it thoroughly and make sure the vent isnt blocked. Ideally, get a new MC - ask for the new one with the big(er) fluid window and your good to go.

Ragas bike was running the old remote setup in the USA WTC this year. So it can be done. Not sure what they did, if anything, to the brake pedal. Honing the old MC to remove the burrs is a simple task for a machine shop. Hones come in all sizes and grits. (I know Stu does it himself in his garage) I can find out more about what Stu used if thats something your considering. I know he only had to do it on the one shipment of six (2012) Raga bikes. I dont blame you for being p****d about the problem as a good rear brake that you can count on is vital. If your dealer is out of rebuild kits, I'd call around and dig one up from someone else.

Stu bought a hone and removed any burrs inside that were taking out the rubber orings. Also replaced the rear hose with the 11 style on most of his customer bikes after he heard of the problems. Seems the 12's had short hoses and when folks switched to a 10t CS - they all failed. GGUSA covered him on the parts. He says the hydro's on the 13's are great.

+1 on above. Also, Check that the carb gas inlet banjo filter (round mesh disk on side of PHBL carb body) isnt dirty (or missing). Also, make sure your air filter boot is correctly seated all the way around the carb air inlet. The Dellorto PHBL is not known for clogging, so it must be trapped water or ALOT of dirt is getting in. (Im assuming the air filter is cleaned and oiled) If you have a VHST (came on some early 03's and easy to clog) then you need to keep the air filter very clean and use a good fuel filter and clean the pilot every 10 hrs or so.

Here how it should look

You sure the title isn't FIM Trials Dictator?

Crowd was p****d - Raga was p****d, Observer was p****d. Now tell me how this is good? There-in lies the problem.

The Todo site has a current poll that is well over 2:1 against. Ive seen several informal polls on FB as well. I saw one that had about 2:1 and had a breakdown of demographics as well. That was awhile ago though and cant find it now. The demographics broke down exactly as you would think.

Based on the opinion polls I've seen it is preferred by significantly fewer people, usually by a 2 to 1 margin than stop allowed. I personally think that watching riders creep slowly around a section to finally line up for the hits is far less entertaining. Dynamic is certainly NOT the word for it. Instead, Put them on a aggressive clock and let them MX around to buy some time for a few seconds of setup before the hits. Hop all you want - just don't time out. ALOT easier to check! (I wont miss all the videos arguing over what rider stopped where)

Looks pretty good, but very similar to the 11 bike. Probably just sticking with what sells.

Yes. J is the 08 code.

Should be about 60 riders or so - Another dozen or so who normally ride will be working the event. Exeter has great terrain - worth checking out.

FWIW: Id make changes to the pegs to fit the bike - not the other way around.

OSETS usually sell pretty quick - especially in the spring. Might just be the time of year. (Id say $750 is more like it for 3 y/o machines that may/probably need work and new batteries, tires,chains ect..)

Seems like a good deal on that bike. Id put a slow throttle tube on it to help a novice rider as they are pretty powerful bikes. (may already have one?) Must be some great riding areas up your way!

Ask yourself what makes each pic especially interesting. If you have a great background - go wide and include it. If the terrain is really gnarly, include it- if boring - omit it. If the riders emotions are what you want to convey - get close enough to show them. I tend to prefer to show the riders face in many of the pics I take- so I dont shoot from behind that much unless its a really interesting line - like catching the roost off the wheel or showing the size of the hit. It really depends on what YOU like and how you develop a personal style. One thing I do believe helps with trials is to get close with a wide angle lens on hits so as to minimize how you compress the field. Using the wide angle field distortion can help get the extreme angles back into the shot. Long focal lengths can leave you with flat shots.

The snap ring is the stop. Heres a diagram to better explain from the GGUSA site. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/AJP.jpg

If the piston travels all the way back to the stop AND the vent to the reservoir isnt clogged, you will see a burp of fluid (fluid and air if not bled) if you take the reservoir cap off. be careful as it will splash you in the eye if you release the lever fast and its working right! You can watch the burp to see if it has any large air bubbles in it. You should be able to bleed the system just by pumping the lever if the vent is hole uncovered properly (why lineaway wanted you to move the adj screw all the way out) Also - if there has been air in the system, put an inner tube around the lever holding the clutch in over night to help the mirco bubbles escape. Re-pump in the morning and your all set.

Yes - the finger height check is definitely the 1st step. Watch the jim snell video on clutch service and make sure you always lay the bike on its side when re-assembling.

The original Mg clutch cases were somewhat weak and flexible - the "fix" was to goto Al and add ribs to stiffen it. (Not to mention the changes to the slave) When you actuate the clutch, you can watch the side case bulge. Regardless, They still work, but I think the stiffer design is more precise in feel. (not that it matters to me) Raga used to have AL side cases on his bike at one point - I forget when. Like you say - memory fades with exact details. The fingers are part of a asymmetrical teeter-totter. the short side acts on the spring - the tall side is acted on by the slave/top hat. Because of this, when you raise the clutch pak thickness, you lower the finger height and visa-versa. Thats also why when a pak would swell - it would get harder to pull the lever.

Well that would do it if thats the case - I could have missed that as it only takes a few thousandths of an inch to change the spring K an appreciable amount. I say try it - I have never changed plates and finger heights were always OK. Will make a noticeable difference in pull and make the engagement more progressive. The part numbers for the plates are all the same - so if its IS different, its backward compatible in theory.

I dont think thats true Rich. I know ive changed a few older bikes to the 06 spring and never replaced plate - worked great. No change in finger height as I recall.

Have you checked the Rad cap? Maybe the seal is bad. If the proper pressure isnt maintained, the solution will boil at a lower temp than it should. Im also going to assume that its pretty hot there. If so, you may want to try some of the waterless antifreeze products that claim better high temp performance. I say claim because I haven't tried them personally, but I know people who do and they say they make a difference .

The 250 should be good in the mud. you sure its the bike? if so, hows your suspension setup. It may be too firm for your weight. You want a nice compliant suspension and low (very low if your light) tire pressures in the wet. Also - short gearing can also compound a lack of traction problem.

Ive perfected my own personal techniques and are: Damn, D'oh, Biff, Ouch, Crash and Yard Sale. I seem to practice them all on a regular basis.