laser1

CS2 working on my "old" Win 7 system. Thanks for the heads up Andy.

No problemo - hope it works for you.

Correct - that hole goes through and so could chips. I remember my dad had the same problem one time and greased up a left hand drill and "luckily" got the bolt to spin out on its own before going all the way into the transmission cavity. The chips he did have stuck to the grease. He seemed to be lucky using his left hand drill method on several other bolts as I recall. Im sure if it was me, it wouldnt have been the case. If your going to drill it - you may want to try it.

Whats the quality like - do you know if they do kits for old style 02-08 GG's? Not a local call for me.

Glad to hear it was something simple. I will have to keep this in mind for future noise investigations. I love an easy fix too.

If thats the case, I would pull the top end and have a looksie. Better safe than sorry and you'll have peace of mind to boot. Its pretty easy to do - just buy a head oring set and base gasket along with any other parts you find you need.

If you look at the price and fall to you knees it a 4rt. If you completely pass out, its a Repsol..... Sorry - couldnt help myself.

Check the tank bolt is good and tight. The tank can buss against the frame and sounds very much like a top end noise.

I went and looked at some online photos (google search) of the 02 pro 200's and that looks stock to me. I couldnt see any markings on the ones I found - although none had great pics to inspect. Thinking about it, i doubt the old 160 jug would fit the Pro cases. I "think" they bumped the motor to a 178 (or something close to that) with the pro - but maybe that was later.

Probably the old 160 jug.

I would speak to GGUK directly as I "think" it would work, but wouldn't bet my life on it. Better to ask a pro.

All-balls sells them.

Slow jet seems too lean. Most people here run a 36 or even a 38 on a 200. I believe the stock jetting is 36/107 from spain. Needle clip = 2nd from bottom.

Racing specs: http://www.gasgasuk.com/gas-gas-news.php?id=593

I know there is at least one change to the right case - the 11 has a machined pocket for the KS stop. Might make for a part number change, but this change alone wouldn't preclude using one.

I Agree with Lineaway - the pilot and fuel/air screw circuit maybe too lean for the cold & dry air of winter conditions. Its worth a try to clean the pilot jet and adjust the fuel/air screw for your winter conditions. Most carbs rely on the fuel/air screw circuit to provide fuel during throttle chops - (The slide is closed) and its very common to hear "pinking" if too lean. Another tell tale sign of a lean condition on the pilot/air screw circuits would be a lean bog condition when the throttle is opened full very quickly. Pilot jets can get partially clogged and create what you describe as well as the colder temps - so a good cleaning is always recommended when suspecting carb issues.

CO2 and water(non potable) and sunlight are the active "feedstocks" that I can tell. They supposedly create a GM organism that synthesizes the components to bio fuels directly. The food being over rated was an attempt at humor. This being a Trials based site, I figured this was a way to keep thing lighthearted. I would be interested in how much BIO materials and Energy are needed to create these GMO's. Thats where you may be right - but the claims of the potentials are very impressive. Could be marketing. Audi would seemingly provide some decent due diligence - but it may be all about patent positions for now.

They claim no Bio-Mass required, so why would you need to sacrifice food production? Food is over rated anyway.

Aside from the cost of the carb, you would either need to buy a raga intake manifold or Jitsie adapter to convert the bike from a Dellorto 26mm to the Keihin PWK 28mm inlet. You would also need a Keihin type throttle cable.

You will need a puller to remove the flywheel. I found a thread from RichT that mentioned the size is: M27 Dia x 1mm Pitch, right hand male thread.

Nice Bike Dan. Congratulations!

Change it as above reasons. If its milky - its no good. If the next fill goes milky - you still have a leak. Tip - lean the bike to the shifter side to drain all (most of) the fluid out of the clutch side.

Nice!

All balls sells them - separately.

If you replace the WP seal and the shaft is worn - it will leak still. I would seem to think a dealer would know that - but...