laser1

For extreme cold, they make heated socks (popular for skiing - battery powered)

If also they replace the wheel spacers, that would be cool. Cant tell from any of the pics ive seen - but the text does refer to easier wheel changes.

A production bike rule would seem to make sense. Many other forms of motorsports went that route to save money and help the privateer become more competitive with the factory riders.

The school of hard knocks teaches us all many lessons. Those inner orings can be tricky. I make sure to check for a uniform gap to the head before torquing down. Best to re-torque the head after a heat cycle of two. IMO - The best sealant to use on the spacer to head (non-oring interface) is Hylomar universal blue sealant. Just dont use too much and get it inside the cylinder. Great stuff!

Loose tank bolts will buzz like crazy.

+1

Great Day - Motorcycles and best buddies. Thanks for posting - well done.

Very cool - dont see that viewpoint everyday!

That's about 1 yr depreciation here - 1st year = $1500. 3 years is around $3K difference.

I think he's gonna have a tough time getting the 280 past the marshals. He is in the under 16 class. Otherwise, I agree with you - get the right size bike upfront and save the aggravation of making a bike something it itsnt.

http://www.trialendurodirect.com/products.php?S3__STARS__GAS_GAS_PRO_CYL_HEAD__outer_part__862&manufacturers=15 http://www.trialendurodirect.com/products/S3__STARS__Cylinder_head_inserts_for_GAS_GAS_PRO125_864.html s3 star heads are typically used. they are better than the OEM 2 pc heads on the newer GG's (also s3). Id guess that the high comp insert would be fine on 98 - not sure about the very high insert. Might check with the shop you buy them from. Head fitting is fairly easy, but must make sure the o-rings are installed correctly (use new ones) and head is torqued properly. not sure what your capability is - wouldnt cost much for a dealer to do it - 1hr of labor max for a pro mechanic.

No - you cant use a 200 in the 125 class. Yes - The HC head makes a big difference in power - mostly a mid range hit, but will really wake up the bike provided everything else is in good nick. However - the tradeoff is that it becomes a bit lumpy, can stall easier and requires high octane fuel. The bikes from 2010 and on, have a 2 pc head that accepts different compression inserts to make changing this easy and inexpensive. Adding the Keihin helps reduce the lumpyness down low and adds alot of over rev on top. Low budget options: Instead of a HC head - you can get increase the compression by reducing the thickness of the base gasket. (as mentioned above) However, you need to make sure you dont go too thin. (measure squish to make sure the piston doesn't hit the head and become a very expensive "upgrade") The change of port timing is a complaint by some. But you can always change it back. Find a used Keihin or use a OKO - (A lower cost copy of the keihin) - you will need a Raga manifold or Jitsie adapter to fit the 28mm carb correctly. The VHSt is a good carb as well - but can be hard to jet correctly. The optimal keihin jetting is well known. All of these "hot" carbs are less user friendly than the stone simple PHBL and require more frequent cleaning. There pilot circuits have very small holes in there atomizers and can easily clog. Run a good fuel filter. Keep your air filter very clean. The edge of too lean jetting is where 125's like to be for max power. Verify what the top riders in your area are using. If you have an 08 with alot of hours - change the reeds even if they look OK. As mentioned above - verify piston clearance and ring end gap (Im assuming these where done already when you changed the piston) make sure you dont over oil your air filter. +1 on the gearing comment - many folks here run 9T. Verify you have a quick turn throttle. (white tube)

Clean Midbox and repak silencer, verify jetting with locals. New carbon fiber reeds and High comp head are typical upgrades on 125's. Keihin carb and Short Ti Pipe will help up top as well.

Did you check to confirm that Is fuel actually flowing?

While plenty of folks have ridden longer than they should with a WP leak - its really not advisable. Its a very easy job to do. Get the parts and get her done! Will take 30 minutes max! probably 1/2 of that the next time you do it. Jan's clogged Overflow pipe is one thing to check before you rip into her, but that aside, I would fix it and get some fresh gear lube/atf into her. The gear oil also lubricates the main crank bearings on the pro - hence why its better to be safe than sorry. The antifreeze / water can also effect the clutch pak fiber material as well. If you cant get the parts, and have to ride - I would at least change the oil before each day of riding. (Me and many of my buddies carry a spare WP rebuild kit - so ask around at the riding grounds. Most riders will let you replace there spare as long as you have one on the way) Chances are the guy with the spare could show you how to change it it under 10 minutes.

Heres a video on how to repair the WP. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=AEqQvL23bgs

I suspect the water pump seal/shaft is leaking coolant into your oil. Replacement is common. Make sure you check the shaft for wear, as a new seal wont help if the shaft is worn.

I know it seems a bit out dated, but those phone calls impart alot more knowledge than a online cart and can come through in a pinch as well! Welcome to the sport!

The lanyard kill switch is a great investment to help prevent this type of failure. While not 100% fail safe, its better odds than the std style that requires human interaction.

The Gaernes are low cut and provide alot of big calve space. They soles dont always last long - but can be replaced.

Its not a matter of having all the parts - its putting the puzzle together correctly. Jons suggestion is a good one - something is not letting the shaft sit normal to the case. Could also be the KS spring tang isnt in the right hole in the center case. There is a good video of how to reassemble this here: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/youtube.html see the pro engine repair #3 - about 2 minutes into it. It can be a tricky little bugger to get wound up right.

More than you probably wanted to know - but good info never the less. http://www.Gas Gas.com/Pages/Technical/Plug.html I think that article was written before the Iridium plugs were available. Ive had very good luck with them and find the GG's start a bit easier with them. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp?mode=nml Same 5 heat range as above (most modern trials bikes) - IX designator = Irdium

Yes - easy to install if thats what you meant. http://boyesenc.nexcess.net/wordpress/?p=213

Might try some of the new Boyesen reeds as well.

Different linkage - beefier and more protected. Rear shock tower is stiffer as well. Lots of little things really that add up to a very refined product.