wherry

Jets sound OK. Maybe a bit lean on the main? I don't know what they are as standard so see how it goes for now. Might be worth getting yourself a can of carb cleaner to blow through all the jets and passages to get rid of any fuel/oil residues. Worn O-ring on the choke jet might explain your high revving. Caddabs got one of them from Splatshop I believe, or I've heard people rate Dellorto UK direct for carb bits. While you've got the carb off it'll be worth checking that the float height is right as well. With the carb upside down and float bowl off the measurement is 18.5mm from face of carb body to the 2 little brass tangs that the floats sit against.

Sounds like a plan No you won't need any gaskets. You'll find things much easier if you take off the whole airbox - see how you get on. The pilot jet is the one that sometimes partially blocks on mine (PHBH) as they have such small holes in them. You'll only have the one in your carb. Don't forget the banjo screen on the fuel-in port. Have seen these pretty blocked before. Someone will know what jets should be in an '01. Whilst I think of it peel back your throttle grip a bit and tell us what colour the plastic tube (that the grip goes on) is. Probably be white which is a fast throttle. You may find things easier to get started if you buy yourself a black (slow) one. It'll just go straight on. There's a difference in the internal cam shape that alters how the throttle advances at low revs.

Oh they sound fine to get going with then. I imagined some polished toecap black ankle boots!

Stand - some people seem to love them, some seem to hate them and take them off immediately. Personally I like them so I can park my bike anywhere and not have to worry about finding something to lean it against. Just seems much more of a PITA to not have one. Re. Choke. It's either on or off. If the carb is doing funny things you'll need to take it off and make sure all the passage ways and jets are free from obstructions. While you're at it make a note of what jets you've got in there.

Yes fine to all but your last sentence. One of my mates (an experienced road rider) had a go on my bike with his short road boots on. Came off and had his shin savaged by the footrest on the way past. I had to take him to A&E to have him stitched back together. Moral of the story:- You can get away with not having any of the kit, but helmet and proper boots are a must.

That's great, Ben. The more you can practise, even just balancing on the bike, the better. There are a couple of places to go for practice, both over Lowestoft way. Both

Don't necessarily dismiss the '99, if it's the right price. Mine's great and perfectly competitive enough to have plenty of fun with. Martin knows

All sounds good. The trial was a proper competition, but only a fairly easy-going club one so if people were changing routes that might explain that. It varies from club to club but often you start at the section number of the 2nd digit of your riding number so if you're number 18 you'll start at section 8. Sometimes all the Novices are sent off to section 1, Intermediates to section 5 etc. They usually tell you at the start briefing where to go. You'll just need some Allen keys, and maybe an adjustable spanner and the forks will drop out of the yokes. Taking the master cylinder off the bars will make it all easier to deal with of course. Put December 5th in your diary as your first trial. It's the last round of Norwich Vikings Beginners & Wobblers series at Lyng, West of Norwich. As the name suggests there are routes for Beginners, Novices and Intermediates. The Beginners route on the 5th will be a fair bit easier than the White (easy) route on Sunday, to give you an idea. We've got several Beginners that have started this year so you won't be alone! Norwich Vikings

Yes sounds like a wind up doesn't it? It's a brand available over here that has been recommended by members on TC before, specifically for the 4rt if memory serves. I tried them to replace some Galfers and like them a lot. BVM brake pad link

Yep Braking too.

The middle box is aluminium too....

Well I do but then each to their own.

Sorry, Ken. Whoever told you was right I'm afraid. TSR8 of the current ACU handbook talks about bikes' brake/clutch levers, mudguards, throttle, wheels etc and states that 'Footrests must be of the folding type'.

Well I did mine by filling it with some spare petrol overnight and giving it a good slosh around, then leaving it to drain out and evaporate for a few days. If I did it again I'd be very tempted to do the same but with paraffin instead of petrol so it was less of a potential firebomb. After I'd got rid of at least the surface gunge inside I then gave it a good scrape out as best I could and tapped all the bits out. To be honest I'm not sure how much difference if any it's made. It's difficult to be absolutely definite about it but I think repacking the rear box has had more effect and has softened the power a bit. Stickers I don't know about but I'd be tempted to give Sandifords a ring. I get most of my stuff from BVM in Stroud - they may be able to track some down. What clutch plates have you put in it?

Sounds like a Scott to me. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/8405-italjet-350-four-stroke/ Unless someone has just painted the 2T frame red at some point. Got a pic?

I'd have a look on eBay. Sort of thing most people take off a new bike and leave in the shed for years until they get fed up of tripping up over them and shove them on eBay.

What a bit of kit that is! Fantastic.

Yep TY175 had an oil tank as original too.

I've just been having a bit of trouble getting a rebuild kit for the front Grimeca caliper of my 1999 315. Montesa don't list the caliper components in the parts list so identifying them is difficult as they are getting a bit old. After a bit of sending bits back and forth BVM have identified the caliper as the same as on the Beta Techno from the same era so what you need are the bits for that. BVM stock code - BE2002710000 - Caliper Kit Grimeca/Brembo - Seals BVM stock code - BE2569490000 - Caliper Pistons 32mm - Pistons ETA - You can back bleed the system with a syringe on the bench but only after you've removed the ball bearing under the bleed nipple. Once you've got rid of any bubbles keep the caliper a little lower than the master cylinder and replace the ball bearing. Finish off bleeding as normal with brake lever and tube on nipple etc.

Yep get a 315 - all plus points mentioned already. You should be able to get a reasonable 1999 - 2000 model for

Starts at 10.30. Will finish around 13.30 - 14.30 or so. Spectators welcome and free to get in. Wear some boots it'll be muddy. Very quick guide for you. The more people put a steadying foot down in the sections the more marks they drop. Person with least points wins. Different classes do different routes through the sections. The main route is marked up with gates - red marker to right, blue to left - Intermediates and Novices riding the harder route will do that exclusively. Novices will do the main route until they get to a white marked gate(s) which they then follow until they join the main route again. Beginners have orange gates to go through. Not sure if there will be an Expert route today. Their gates are yellow. Riders are normally marked on their number on the front of the bike. No mark = white route, red mark = red/blue route, orange = orange route. Have fun.

Due to a date clash with the original venue the Norwich Viking trial on the 8th August has had to be moved from Westleton to Cadders Hill, Lyng. NR9 5AL, Grid Ref. TM 444686. Please pass this on to anyone who will be affected by this.

PHBH. Mixture screw adjusts air. Around 1.5 turns out. PHBL. Mixture screw adjusts fuel. Around 3.5 turns out. It'll say on the side of the carb which one it is but if that's difficult to see the PHBH has the mixture screw towards the back (air-box side), PHBL has screw engine side.

You may need a new seal kit for a start. Back off the adjuster on the lever as far as it will go so you're getting as long a stroke on the master piston as possible. You need to make sure the piston assembley is in the right sort of position with the ports in the cylinder to transfer the oil on each stroke. There is a ball bearing under the bleed nipple on the caliper which makes it impossible to back bleed with a syringe unless you take it out first. That's what I normally do and then put the ball bearing back, whilst trying not to lose too much fluid, and finish bleeding as normal. Should sort it.

Cheers