wherry

Am I being thick? I can't see the YthB results.

Yeah I didn't like the look of that either. And it's probably just me but why compromise the whole look of the bike with the old fashioned looking down-tube/girder at the front? Yes it looks 'traditional' but it also looks pants.

For those about to bend We salute you. Mr Ham, Sir, you are The Man. I pressed the bearing and seals out, stuck it in a vice and heated it gently with a Propane torch, whilst keeping a bit of pressure on it with a big spanner. It resisted and resisted and then slowly bent a bit. Then stopped. I heated it a bit more and it gently went again. Repeated a couple more times and it's now better than when I got the bike. Looking good. The only probelm I can foresee is that I'll miss it the first few times I need it until I get used to it being further in. Cheers, mate.

Thanks for all your help, guys. It's not bent too much so hopefully I'll be able to straighten it OK. I will let you know how it goes.

Wow. I'm loving the Cabes headcam vids.

I managed to hit my rear brake pedal on a stump the other day and bent it out a bit. Who can tell me the procedure I need to follow to bend it back into shape? It's aluminium and I'm assuming it will be better heated a bit first, but how hot, and quenched afterwards or not? It's a 315R one if that makes any difference to anything.

Have you seen this? ApexMotorsports It's a Montesa parts list but the page linked to is for the PHBH carb. May enable you make sure that everything is as it should be. Float height on these is usually 18.5mm. Have you got the overflow pipe on the right outlet? Are the floats free to move when you put the bowl back on? Impossible to see I guess but is there anything that could be stopping them moving?

Maybe?

Here's a taster on

Almost certainly. There's also something on here somewhere about there being a difference between seals. We need ones here designed for hydraulic applications obviously, not for spinning shafts. If you've bought honda/montesa ones you should be fine. I've got some random seals from a bearing factor that let a tiny bit of oil through, particularly when the temperature rises, and I've wondered whether they are the right ones or not. Next time I renew them I'll make some more enquiries.

Have you just changed the dust caps, with the spring exposed, at the top of the lower fork leg? Not too clear from your post. If so the oil seals are further down under the wire clip. If not apologies. The seals should be with the inner spring reinforcement facing downwards. Wire clip on top to hold them in place. It's important to make sure that they are in straight.

Came across this the other day so thought I'd share it. . In a Peugeot 205.Having done the Lands End a few times it gives a great idea of what it's like. It's for bikes as well as cars so here are a few on an easy bit. And yes that is a Reliant and it is amazing what it will go up.Some of my personal favourites are the Escorts and similar RWD saloons .The most competitive classes have 'stop and restarts' on really nasty bits All good fun. The smell of hot mud is very evocative.

Thanks for that, Billy. Very interesting.

Hmmm. An ugly review. Did Mick Boam ride one on the Colmore in the end? I know he was entered on one.

Well done for sticking at it and getting to the root of the problem.

Yes well done to all involved and a salute to Andy for publically recognising them.

2 thoughts:- Have you taken out and made sure the 2nd pilot jet is clean? There's another one down the hole where the obvious top one comes out from on the PHBH. If your symptoms have only been happening recently your carb may be icing up. Mine sometimes runs badly when I start it up in the cold and damp and I'm sure it's that. If I run it for a few minutes as best I can and then stop it it will then run fine if I start it up again 5 minutes later once everything has warmed up a bit. The stopping to let it warm up bit is the key though as if you keep trying to ride it will keep spluttering.

Yep it can do. Can run rich or weak if the level is too high or too low respectively.

Vince. Standard spec is:- Main 135 Slow jet B46 upper, 46 lower Clip 3rd from top Air srew initial opening 1 turn out Float level 18.5mm You may find you can come down a size or so on the main. Mine is running a 130.

Make sure, if you can, then that you go down to Bluehills at St Agnes. It's one of the most spectacular places to have a trials section and Bluehills 2 will either scare you witless or inspire you to have a go. The MCC trial with the least mileage is the Edinburgh and in my opinion is a good one to start with, although it can be rough and some of the hills can be tough. If you need any help now or in the future pm me. I've done the MCC trials quite a few times in various cars and did the Edinburgh on a bike in 2006.

Have a look Here Can't say if it's right or not but it should give you something to go on.

Did you enter, Mick?

Hi there and welcome to TC. The Beta boys will be along to answer your technical questions soon I expect. In the meantime Have A Look Here. Some clubs to consider. My advice would be to join a club you like the look of and go to a few trials to get a feel for what's going on. Ask lots of questions - most people will be glad to help you. As for riding, don't get hung up on bouncing. I would say it's an advanced technique that would be way down the list of things you need to learn if you're just starting out. There are quite a lot of topics in the Trials Training & Tecniques forum that should give you some ideas.

Hi there. The tube you've got connected is to the sub air filter mounted, as you say, near the rear brake reservoir. Pretty sure this should go to the 'odd' connector on the exhaust side, with the U-shaped tube connecting the 2 similar connectors at the front of the carb. See HERE. The 2 connectors for the U-shaped tube are just breathers to allow atmospheric pressure to enter the carb. I've never really considered what the sub air filter is for I'm afraid. Sudden increase in revs is probably due to the mixture weakening for some reason - maybe a jet blocking somewhere. If you take out the jets to clean them look through them very carefully to make sure they're clear - they have extremely small holes in them. Also remember that in the PHBH there is a 2nd slow speed jet down the hole once you've taken the obvious one out of the top - very easy to miss. Mixture screw should be 1.5 turns out from fully in +/- 0.5 turns depending on atmospheric conditions. Having said that in the recent cold weather mine is only about 0.5 turn out from fully in. 315s should be 2nd, 3rd kick to start. If yours is not there is something not quite right somewhere.