wherry

PHBL. Mixture screw is a fuel screw and if memory serves should be about 3 - 4 turns out. Yep Thursday could be very good. I've got some time booked in for bike time so let's see what the weather's like.

Not quite sure what you mean about the air box and manifold but if it's letting air in either side of the carb it'll muck up your settings. The reason I ask about the carb is that there are 2 types that could be on your bike. I suspect it might have a Dellorto PHBH like my bike but it might well have a later and better Dellorto PHBL. You can tell by what side the mixture adjusting screw is on. On the PHBH the mixture screw is on the airbox side of the carb (with the big tickover screw in the middle). PHBL has the mixture screw on the engine side. The major thing here is that the mixture adjusting screws work in opposite ways. The PHBH screw adjusts air so screwing it out weakens the mixture. The PHBL screw adjusts fuel so screwing it out richens the mixture. The jets are therefore different so you'll need to know which carb you've got if you do order some more. PM me where you are. I could come over at some point and have a look at things if you like, or if you haven't got anywhere handy to try out the bike at yours you could come to mine.

No I went for a look yesterday as well, as several mates were riding, but I don't have a T/S or P70 bike myself. I'll almost certainly be doing Raydon on the 31st though. Do you know which carb you've got on the bike?

Morning! Are you coming up to Lyng on Friday? Re. petrol. Are you running on super-unleaded? I never use petrol that's been hanging around for more than about 3 weeks as my bike just doesn't run right on old petrol. I also make it up a litre at a time so I can bung the old unused petrol in the missus's car. If you want experiment with some other jets you can get them from Dellorto direct I think, or I've used a Scooter tuning guy I found on eBay. Let me know if you want me to dig his details out.

Thanks, Dan. That's great.

Not sure why I haven't seen this before but I haven't. I've not got time now to go into details but if you want to get back into it join a club you fancy and everything will follow from there, including a bike probably. Have a look at the Eastern Centre website Here and have a look at the local clubs. Essex & Suffolk Border and Ipswich MCC are both quite trials oriented. If you want to go have a look soon we've got, subject to weather, the Triangle Boxing day trial at Raydon on 26th Dec and the Norwich Viking New Year's Day trial at Lyng on the 1st. There will be people at both that will point you towards the people you need to speak to.

I was worried about the play on mine when I got it so I bought some new bobbins from BVM. They've helped a bit but there's still quite a bit of play. I've stopped worrying about it because I only notice it if I'm in the garage doing a bit of balance practice - riding I never give it a thought.

Can't comment on what they are like on a 4rt but I've got them on my 315 and I like them a lot. They've 'perked up' the rear and quickened up the steering a bit at the same time. Also apart from anything else they are quality bits of kit that are a joy to have even before you put them on the bike!

Some good thoughts here. I think the most important thing is to keep looking where you want to go, or even past it - you'll see the top riders' minders holding their hands out over the top of an obstacle for the riders to aim at so that they don't stop as they hit the obstacle. Don't go concentrating on that tree or rock that you want to avoid because you'll inevitabley end up heading straight towards it. The most difficult thing is when you are really concentrating on where the front wheel is going in a very tight bit of section giving yourself the time to drag your head and eyes up to look ahead for the next climb or obstacle before you hit the throttle. I quite often have to slap myself half-way through a trial because I've forgotten to do this.

I think it's a possibility that he may have his head up his R's.

Classic stuff from the self-styled saviour of written English. If you're going to use small words and pretend to be intelligent you may like to check their spelling...

Great! Glad to hear it's going well. Don't forget that the plug appearance after a thrash up the road will only tell you that the main jet is OK. The air screw is to adjust the throttle response really just off idle and this can change with atmospherics from day to day. 2 1/4 turns out is a bit more than specced but is probably OK if throttle response is good, and you may have a bigger than standard pilot jet in there thus needing a bit more air.

The front sliding and pushing straight on is understeer. Back end sliding is oversteer. Steepening the fork angle helps to negate the front pushing. You can do that by dropping the yokes down the forks a bit or by putting a bit more preload on the rear to raise it a bit. As Ralphy says you'd do well to make sure the suspension is accurately set up before you change too much.

Yes it is possible to over-oil. You need a bit of (preferably sticky) filter oil on there but not too much. The water's your probable culprit. You only need a tiny bit in the wrong place and the surface tension keeps it there, stopping the proper working of the carb. Just to be clear I put Unmixed old petrol in my partner's car..........

No problems

NGK BPR6EIX

Hi, Mick. Welcome to the TC forum. If your 315 is going OK you've got a good bike to learn on. First up fuel mix. You'll need to run it on 80:1 super unleaded:synthetic oil. That's 62.5ml oil in 5 litres or I mix it up a litre at a time in an old jug with 12.5ml oil to the litre of fuel. I use the strawberry Ipone oil but lots of people swear by Castrol TTS. Any of the modern synthetic oils should be OK. Bear in mind that modern super unleaded goes off. I shove any left over petrol in my partner's car after a month as the bike just doesn't go right with petrol that old. Gearbox oil. You need about 500ml (book says 530ml I think but I just use 500ml) and here's where everyone has their own special preference. I use the Elf HTX as specified in the book and I find it works well in my clutch. Other people love the PJ1 clutch tuner and some people swear by ATF or even hydraulic oil I've seen mentioned somewhere. Probably whatever you use the clutch will stick if you leave the bike standing. To stop launching yourself up the back of the car when you snick it into gear after first starting some people select 4th, 5th gear and roll the bike back with the clutch in to break the stiction on the clutch plates. I just make sure I'm pointing somewhere with some space, get the bike moving and put into first gear. I ride around for 30 secs or so with the clutch in before it will suddenly release and you're sorted. Best thing from a performance point of view is to make sure that everything on the bike is working correctly and is clean and lubed - work through everything methodically - and that the suspension is adjusted to your weight. If you're starting out from scratch you may find a slow throttle (black tube) slows down the power response a bit and makes the bike a bit more controllable for you. On my '99 I've got the Braking sintered front brake pads which are good and sharpen up the front brake and I've got some V-Mar rear suspension raiser plates that lift the back and make the steering a bit quicker. Run an irridium plug and forget about it. I've never been quite sure whether it's just how my browser is set up but I can only ever see just a few articles going back in time on these forums. However, if I go to the bottom of the page and click Lo-Fi Version I can go back to see all the old articles. If you do this you'll see loads of stuff that's been posted for 315s over the years.

Yes the jets are fixed as you say. Just unscrew them and make sure they and the holes they come out of are clean. The main jet has a fairly big hole but the 2 pilot jets have very small holes in them so spend some time examining them to make sure none of the holes are blocked. The small mixture screw on the outside is adjustable and is set around 1 1/2 turns out for a start. It's an air screw on the earlier carbs so screwing it out weakens the mixture.

Have a look here - http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/lofive...php/t24275.html. Martin knows his stuff. Re. running problems. Almost certainly carb related. If the bike is new to you you'll need to make sure everything is clean in there. Don't forget to take the 2nd jet out from down the hole that the pilot jet comes out of - very easy to miss.

Ah ha. We have lift-off.

Yep. Nothing wrong with that in the least. There you have it, in a nutshell.

This is what the 'Modern Twinshock' fans would have you believe is acceptable, and I quote, again from Classictrial:- 'We have decided to offer to convert suitable air-cooled monoshock machines to twinshock, which while not being allowed in ACU

That slo-mo stuff is great for trying to figure out what they're doing isn't it - it really makes you realise how much they are actually working the bike all the time. Sure I've seen another one like that somewhere with Cabestany (I think) going over a huge log. Thanks for posting it anyway.

Well, well. Browsing around look what I came across the other day:- 'Modern twinshock: Twinshock trials is starting to become increasingly expensive, with cobbled up

How are you getting on with this, Adam? I wouldn't have thought it's the reeds. Unless they're half broken or there's something big in there holding them open the pressure cycling of the engine should close them as needed so you wouldn't have a problem only after extended running. Are you running a PHBL? Does it have the easy to miss 2nd pilot jet down the hole where the obvious pilot comes out of like my PHBH does?