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jfc

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Posts posted by jfc
 
 
  1. The Airbox fitting is made more awkward by the lug that protrudes into the frame at the lower right hand side of the Airbox, what is this lug for (can't seem to see that it does anything)? Has anyone cut it off to make refit even more easy than standard?

  2. As above and also the seal where the reed block seals against the cylinder, we had one that leaked at this location.

    Also check the throttle cable routing as the 80 is prone to the cable crushing and causing it to stick ever so slightly and giving an iratic idle, but that will not be the starting issue!

    • Like 1
  3. Try the one pence piece trick

    Place the the 1p in the center of the bearing and use an old socket that just slides through the center of the bearing.

    Hit the socket punching the 1p into the bearing, once the 1p reaches the centre spacer continue knocking the socket until the bottom bearing falls out!

    Or get a bench press!!

    Give it a go.

    • Like 1
  4. Long shot but may be worth unplugging your multi pinned CDI and check to see if any moisture on the connection pins has caused any corrosion to form on the pins, this can cause the symptoms you describe and can be misstaken for fuelling / Carb problems.

    If you find any corosion on the pins just clean the pins with WD40 and gently rub the pins with a terminal screw driver to remove the corrosion.

  5. I am going to look at a different approach to dehumidifying and heating my bike workshed. Thinking of installing a small split air con system. Finding myself in the man cave more in winter, and having bikes, tools and lathe dry plus heat in winter, it would be cheaper to run than the conventional methods. They have dropped a lot in price over the years. I got the added advantage of being a refrigeration engineer so installation for me is no problem. :stoned:

    Hi Floydbassman

    I have installed a 7kw wall mount (daikin) best thing I ever did. Instant heat when working in the garage! The new daikin controller has night set back so you can set a low temp setting, if the garage falls below this point the unit will switch back on and pull the temp back up.

    PS I am a refrigeration engineer as well!

  6. Possibly you have just unearthed your problem!

    If your fuel tap is not closing properly your bike could be gathering fuel in the sump while your bike is parked up over night or during the week, then when you try to start it it will not start until you have jettisoned that fuel out of the engine.

    Try disconnecting the fuel line after you have had it running and then try to restart it the next day.

    Good luck.

    • Like 1
  7. There is heavy damp in the air and it gets everywhere . Cavity brick garages with dpc's are just as bad. I need to introduce heat or a dehumidifier.

    Both in an ideal world but constant temperature is a very good start.

    (So that bike and shed air temps stay the same)

    • Like 1
  8. If you use a dehumidifier the use of a heater is essential to keep the air temp and bike temp up, the dehumidifier will not remove very much water when the air temp is low due to a very low dew point.

    The worst time for condensation is when the air temp in the shed rises (in the morning) the air temp will rise more quickly than the mass of the bike.

    At this point relative humidity (moisture) in the air increases and is easily turned to condensation on any cold surface (your bike).

    By keeping the air temp up and constant will maintain the bike temperature relative to the air temp and reduse the ability of the moisture to condensate on your bikes internal and external surfaces.

    If you then add a dehumidifier and keep the RH below 50%RH (lower the better but may be costly in electricity) and your air temp above 12degC your bike will not suffer from condensation.

    Ensue your bike is warmer than the the shed before you put it away after a wash.

    post-6583-0-30822500-1454144104_thumb.png

 
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