hoodie2

Formula have confirmed that the 4ride forks are 33mm longer with 23mm more travel. It feels like this makes a big difference to how the bike rides but I'm not sure if I'm imagining it. When Amos rode one in the six days do you think he just rode a 4rt with 4ride tank and seat or did he actually ride a 4ride? Any tips on setting a 4ride up for trials type free riding would be welcome. So far I've fitted a 9 tooth gearbox sprocket and 300rr front pipe, increased the sag on the front and dropped the forks 10mm on the yokes and taken most of the damping off.

Got a 2021 4ride that I want to set up more like a trials bike than a trail bike. Can anyone help me with information about the suspension differences between the 4ride and the 4rt. The specs on the Honda site give the travel as being the same at the rear (170mm) but at the front the 4ride has 190mm and the 4rt 158mm. I've looked at the parts diagrams for both and can't see any difference in the first two blocks of the part numbers. Both having 39mm Tech forks and Olle R16V shock with the same parts numbers other than the last 3 characters which are supposed to be for model version and colour codes. Can anyone tell me if the parts are the same and if the travel is the same or is there some other variant that gives the 4ride more travel? The greater travel and longer wheelbase listed in the specs suggests longer forks but I havent been able to confirm that by the part numbers. I'm wondering if the differences are acheived just with different pre load settings as the 4ride came with very little sag.

Does it depend where beta start from when creating the 200? I've heard they have built 200's as sleeved down 250's with the same bottom end, which are mellow but some years are actually bored out 125's. I had a 2012 which I think was 125 based. It could be quite sharp. Somebody will know which way they went for different production runs.

Just to round this off I changed the stator and that sorted it. Could have saved myself some time and money if I knew how to use a multimeter properly. Every day's a school day!

Swapped out the condenser and still no fan. Rechecked output from stator and was getting little or nothing. Checked the stator and found a clear break in the windings. Will swap out the stator and see if that sorts it.

Replaced the rectifier and still only getting 3v dc and no fan. I'm now thinking the rectifier converts ac to dc but the condensor is whats boosting the voltage. Will have to try a known good condenser. Anyone know what value the fan capacitor should be? Might be able to test it at work with a better meter.

Okay thanks for the help. I'll replace the rectifier and see how I get on.

Also only have a cheap multimeter so not able to measure the fan condenser capacitance. On a 2k ohm resistance setting though the condenser will charge to open circuit on either polarity. I think that tells me the capaciter is good so I'm leaning towards thinking the rectifier is not giving me enough voltage dc. That sound reasonable?

Output to the fan is 3v dc. That help?

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that bridging the thermostat wires makes no difference. The bike runs fine otherwise. What I'm wondering is do failures of the fan condenser and failures of the rectifier have different symptoms. I'm trying to eliminate one. The fan doesn't seem to activate at all. If it was just a condenser fault would I get the fan running intermittently?

Hi....got an 06 SY250 with no fan. Fan works off a direct 12v battery feed but not from the bike's power supply. Wiring has been modified but looks okay and the ignition side is fine. Was thinking regulator for the fan but it looks like it has a rectifier and a capicitor in the circuit. Anyone know how to eliminate one or the other or which is most likely to be the culprit? Thanks in advance.

Hi I'm restoring a 1980 Cota 247C that came to me with the crankshaft broken at the counterweight keyway on the left hand side. Common enough problem. I managed to get a replacement LH half from Cyclesavant in the states. Before I get the assembly rebuilt with a new conrod kit I'd like to replace the ignition side half also, as the keyway and taper both have damage. So I'm looking for a decent ignition side half for a late model with the 20mm pin size. Part number is 2160.00803. Anybody got anything or know of a source either for a crank half or a crank assembly with a good usable ignition side? Any help much appreciated. Hoodie.

Finally the bike is running. To wrap this up for anyone else having similar problems: I had a local auto electrician look at it. At first he couldn't see anything wrong so decided to check out the stator output on his oscilloscope. He couldn't get a decent trace by just actuating the kick-start so tried driving the flywheel with a power drill. While doing this and monitoring the readout he noticed he was getting a spark. So it seems the reason the ignition would fire up on the Bradford Ignitions test rig but not on my bike was down to the speed of the rotor and the way I was checking for a spark. I had been holding the plug with one hand against the cylinder to earth and was cranking the kickstart with the other hand. I had no plug in the cylinder head so I wasn't working against compression. I've always checked for spark this way but is seems that on this bike this method doesn't generate enough speed or current to create a spark. Stick the plug back in the head, connect it up and give it a good hard kick and away it goes. Strange but true. Another lesson learned! Thanks to everyone who offered advice.

Will do and thanks for the offer.

Having not had a usable trials bike all summer I got so p****d off I stuck it on Gumtree. I've calmed down a bit now I'm persevering. I've tried everything I can think of and for most of this time I had removed the Kill switch. Took it to a local Auto electric engineer yesterday. He couldn't see anything wrong with the set up but is going to check all the output values for me with the system on the bike.