Armed with a new set of points from InMotion, I set about sorting the timing to the Bultaco procedure other than using a multimeter (on beeb) connected to disconnected black wire and earth, dial gauge through plug hole to set TDC etc.
First problem was setting points gap to 16 thou. as the hole in which the screw cam adjuster works on the points is too big and significantly bigger than original points. Eventually managed it by levering with screwdriver. Second problem, impossible to set timing to less than 5mm BTDC as there was insufficient adjustment on backplate slots!
Comparing points seems to explain why!
The angle and length of the insulated cam follower on the InMotion points is totally different compared to the ‘original’ points (fitted to bike when I got it) and a set of points I bought from F’ecked which themselves are faulty as the welded contacts are intermittent! I think a couple of mm and approximately 30 deg angular offset is not really acceptable if these are the supposed to be compatible!
So for now I’ve put original points back in (contacts are good, but cam follower looks worn) and set them up to 2.5mm BTDC with none of the problems above. But I’m really not impressed! No wonder it’s difficult to get these bikes running correctly if the quality and specification of the current points available is so poor!
I ran out of time (and patience!) so not put it all back together. I don’t think that the wear of the cam follower should affect the timing once set correctly, but I’d really like to replace with a ‘proper’ quality set if anyone knows where I can get some!
Anyone want to buy a Sher
I don’t think that the wear of the cam follower should affect the timing once set correctly, but I’d reallylike to replace with a ‘proper’ quality set if anyone knows where I canget some!
Ware will affect timing, and the points were always poor quality.
Speak to people in the area with trials bikes and find a mot test station that understands trials bikes. Agree with everything above, also check wheel bearing have no play, spokes all tensioned, swinging arm no play, steering no play but adjusted to move with no resistance. You do not need a reflector, but stick one on. Tyres should be properly inflated (not trials pressures) no cracks or signs of deterioration, directional arrows should be correct orientation (or removed)
Worth checking if it's already registered, DVLA have / had an off road registration service so your bikes on the system of it gets stolen. I used this on another bike and discovered it was already registered. I got the original number back for £25.
Virtual all clutches do this, type and quantity of oil has a bearing, but it is normal. Lots of different ways to free it off (and it will free off 99% of the time) Mins is start and warm engine, have plenty of space, push bike and slip it into gear, ride around with clutch pulled in. Maybe a bit of back brake too.
Clutch side weight is 1.6kg so pick up is improved with it off. Still seems to grip ok and im still yet to stall it in the approx 6 weeks I have owned it ! Love it
I have been searching for blank nipples and I can’t find any manufacturer in UK .
Due to the brexit bolox buying from outside of UK won’t be cost effective and although my spokes are perfect , the cheapest option might be new imperial spokes and nipples ... unless anyone knows of a better way???
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Edited by b40rt Fecking spellchecker ....
20 hours ago, pschrauber said:
You can still get them, Stainless steel spokes and even with one buttend end and with aluminium nipples, Orlando Calonder in Buchs Switzerland is still manufacture them. He has made several batches of spokes and nipples zto my bikes , and of course with aluminium nipples and stainless steel spokes. You can save a good amount of weight with doing so and the properties of the aluminium and the stainless steel is flawless.
Here the rear wheel with super light CZ Duraluminium/Magnesium hub and Acront rim:
The front wheel even lighter, also CZ and Acront:
And too as we are in the Bultaco section, Orlando Carlonder stainless steel spokes and aluminium nipples mounted to Bultaco Sherpa 199b hubs:
I never had an issue so far with his spokes and also in terms of corrosion the wheel are trouble free.
. Didn't really need to use the choke at all, and it was cold. Hope this info is of some use to someone else.
Good that your getting there. You should always have to use the choke from cold. If it will start without it you have a carb problem, float level or jetting, leaking needle valve. Always switch petrol off when storing or transporting, and completely drain carb and tank for longer periods.
74 TY 250 A and Dunlop Tubeless 803R18???
in Yamaha
Posted · Edited by b40rt
IRC tube type is a very good so round tyre, perfectly suited to twin shocks. Don't worry about whether it's suited to complement the front.