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Your starting to scare me with your misplaced angst. Your absolutely correct ChrisCH, or may I call you Greta, it was all so easy back in "your" parents day !
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"Boomer Generation" ??? Think you mean the facebook generation ?
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@Mickeyg in motion reopening 18th May
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Petrol off, no choke ,kick and see if it'll go.
If not, plug out and kick it a few times, then try again, preferably with a new plug.
Normal practice for me is to tap the float bowl as its filling.
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Got to love a wild generalization ?? I know many people that are on both, the main difference is on facebook, they tend not to hide behind vague names (like mine before you say it) The real beauty about facebook, (sorry Andy) is you can block tedious posters, unlike here !! Manners tend to be of a higher standard amongst my fb friends and acquaintances, too many on tc will not even take the trouble to acknowledge the advice being offered, and disappear until they next get stuck. Rant over.
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I really wouldn't worry, at worst they will sharpen the steering marginally. They may also be softer sprung than the originals, so will sag more.
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Inmotion Bultaco, closed atm but reopening soon apparently.
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The obvious benefit of an inline plastic filter is you can see if any crap is building up in it, unlike tank or carb filters.
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You need one of these http://www.motoswm.co.uk/shop/swm-tl-kickstart-stop/ to stop it happening again. JB weld is pretty good for repairing if its just cracked.
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Well bugger me, generations of wheel builders have been wrong !!! Learn something new every day.
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Thud is bad, boing is good.
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Modern petrol is designed to be purified by a catalytic converter, exiting a trials bike its carcinogenic, probably best stay at home ?
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If you do end up taking the casing off, its worth making a card template for the allan screws as there are various lengths.
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I'd run it at 50:1, 100ml to 5 litres of petrol using a quality semi synthetic 2 stroke oil.
Even at this reduced rates it will smoke and build up in the crankcase and exhaust. As said above, it needs decent run to get some heat into it to burn off excess, or cleaned out and repacked if this isn't possible.
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Should be able to do it just by removing kickstart etc (fyi, you can take casing off and leave carb in situ) Hopefully seal and o ringing cure your leak, if not there is another o ring on the other end of the shaft which requires splitting the casings to access.
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What ratio are you running, anything over 50:1 will exaggerate the problem.
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You don't need an engine no to register the bike if your in the uk.
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I'd rather loose a mark by grounding a wide sump guard, than not finish a trial having damaged my ignition / gears. It really depends on what sort of terrain your competing in.
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The float height is adjusted by moving the seat - it is an amal after all ....
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If you put the amal back on, make sure the float level is correct before doing anything else. I take it your use a slow throttle ?
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