After drying the plug and heating it up over the cooker, she started faultless.. so now the conundrum is do i carry on and see if it stops again and then get the stator done, or do I do that now and not risk it...
Hopefully it was just flooded, was the petrol left on ? If it happens again I'd get it rewound.
There is so much smoke and mirrors with shocks and so much made of so little... Spending buying the best or most expensive won't bet you on the podium.. I recently did well on my old ty 434 with the original knackeered old shocks that came with the bike when it left the factory in 1974. As mentioned the middle price range are plenty good enough for most riders.. and Norman at Njb had been doing shocks since the war... well almost.. he knows his stuff and you could do worse than giving him a bell.. if not OKO's Betors all do the job or if you want to go up a level Magical Falcons or rockshocks.. but it wont make you a better rider.. Hope this helps.
Beauty of rockshocks is spare parts if you damage them, easily serviceable, variety of spring rates if swapping to another bike and you can change the length if required.
12 years ago the Bosch system was still working as intended (generally) quite a few seemed to have deteriorated over the last few years. What's on yours Glen ?
These posts are 12 years old so the site may not exist anymore. There is a lot of information in the swm section on here, anything specific your looking for ?
In my experience (240 & 280 Rotax) there is always condensation in the ignition case. Well worth keeping the breather and routing it up under the tank, but with a low point to stop any condensate flowing back.
its surprising how the pressure can change from day to day or even getting the bike out of a cold van then leaving it an hour on a spring day while you sign on etc.
I am a bit OCD with pressure but run 4 psi back and 5.5 front - running X lights. - mainly rocks and stream round here
I will check a few time before the start of a trial to get a "normalised " reading - don park your bike in the sun as black tyres soon warm up.
I will normally check again after the first lap of a multi lap trial to confirm no change.
Do you adjust your pressures when you come out a cold stream ?
My default bike is a Scorpa TY175F and the reason I ride it a lot is it doesn't encourage me to try anything above my pay grade. It's bugger all power and less ground clearance so anything big time is a no no . I'm now 57 and have had it 14 years and it's been a hoot.
Quote breagh "This isn't the way it seems to be going with more routes andclasses plus a classic scene which to me is just an excuse for running an easy trial."
making them and applying them is the (relitivly) easy part, creating accurate graphics is a nightmare (hence the 8 years old, non replied question above) - once you know the fonts, etc it is easy. a proper graphics deisgner is going to want lots of £££ to replicate it for you
A signmaker can reproduce a good image without knowing font. Having something to scale the sizes is necessary, and knowing the RAL number.
Just something to consider, on fitting electronic ignition on a Rotax in place of original points set up, the petrol screw (Dellorto carb) went from about 1.5 out to about 0.5 out before it ran nicely off the bottom.
I've ground down the O/D of a socket to a sliding fit in the bearing.I warm up the hub with a heat gun and tap the end of the spacer,,the bearing comes out easily?The spacer locates in the bearing about 1 mm so you can't lever it aside.Alternatively get a suitably sized Rawlbolt and tighten it into the bearing and knock it out from the other side
New one to me, so the diameter of the axle must be smaller than the bearing if the spacer locates 1mm into it ?
Any hub I've ever changed bearings requires taping the bearing out from the opposite side, having first delicately leavered the central spacer to one side to give access.
Rev 3 won't start
in Beta
Posted
Hopefully it was just flooded, was the petrol left on ? If it happens again I'd get it rewound.