It is a vee rubber tyre which is suitable for both tube and tubeless. Wheel is brand new as is the valve. I bought a new wheel to keep the old one for practice. When I first fitted the tyre I pumped it up to 30psi just to make sure it stayed on the rim. When I checked it a week later it was still 30psi. Only when in use does it deflate. I would be suprised if it was a valve issue as it would leak when not in use too. I really am stumped !!!
Sounds like a kink in the tyre. at 30psi the pressure holds it tight to the rim. but at 5psi its moving enough to leak.
Let me set out my stall here,I'm not a 4st hater, I've only tried a Cota 4rt and it was a hoot, suited me,great for p***ing about on but that just about sums up at what level I ride trials.
If someone is bothered about competitions/results I realise they would have to spend more money on the 4rt to compete with a (out of the box)2 stroke.
The std 4rt is for clubmen not experts.
But I'll add this caveat:If you're a top rider you can ride 'owt' but as for the other 99% of us??
Will the manufacturers now go to the FIM and tell them that the 4st /emissions regulations are economically unworkable?
God knows that Honda have thrown everything at it and it seems they have suffered the worst commercially.
So what we're saying here is that the marketing men have cocked it up ;Montesa-Honda now realise that the average trials rider aint gonna pay
Does anyone have an easy way of aligning the rear wheel, in the past I've just eyed it through, but I can't seem to do that with the scorpa......
For some unknown reason, it seems to be offset.
If I line it up with the shock mount it looks as if its turning in towards the right hand peg.
I placed a combi square on the outside edge (from the rear) of the swing arm and it measured 75mm to the edge of the rim, but it measured 70mm on the left.....but looks to be running true....
Can somebody please enlighten me.
ps. Ive been a welder/fitter for 8 yrs, and a sheet-metal/fabricator for 8yrs, so I'm not entirely clueless....( although I am now a shiny-a***, manager and cad draughtsman so not hands on anymore )
Any help appreciated....
Have a look here at 4:20, if your alignment is similar you have a problem.
The Scots raised their threat level from a "bit angry" to "Let's get the *******s" They don't have any other levels. This is the reason they have been used on the front line in the British army for the last 300 years.
I was speaking to Ian (who was observing at the Scottish Classic at Abington) about his 175, and although he likes it in many ways he felt is was "underpowered"
Good news then, all you need do is lengthen the plates at the wheel spindle end by 1" to be a good job. The arms you have could be BSA Bantam D7 I think. Do they measure 6 3/4" ish, between plates? I'm here to be corrected as I have never used them, perhaps I should have? To any one who carries out similar mods ,Don't forget you need to widen the top damper mounts to the same width as the swinging arm, or use Trikshocks, or any units with Rose joints.
Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie
I take it that your background is engineering, interesting getting the hands on experience/info that you obviously have. (and Wayne)
I to agree with the gents above , I would wager it's not a Yamaha part ... Looks to me to be a high grade high collar lock washer , I've seen some before with the stamping on the sides and not sure where I remember it from ... Maybe electric motors or something with high frequency vibrations . Or maybe from a old british leyland product ....(jags , real ones , pre 1980...) Or it could be the alignment washer out of your astro-diffibulator commutater brush alignment assembly !
I discovered the other day that the top mounting bracket on my rear brake master cylinder has broken clean off, which was annoying! Luckily there are many trials coming up anytime soon so it's not a huge problem!
Do you think it can be welded back on or is it not worth the hassle of it potentially breaking again and again, in which case a brand spanker would be better. Personally, I think a new one would be better in the long run but, if it can be welded and guarenteed that it won't break again i might go for that. Anyone know how much a new one is?
Cheers
Did it break because you hit it, or are the mountings not in line putting stress on the bracket ?
If the latter, you will need to align the mountings or pack as required to stop this happening again.
I managed to cadge a sump plug from a garage round the corner from work so happy days there then.
I decided that whilst I was at it, I would remove and clean the air box, only to find even more bolts that where impossible to undo. Had to drill them out and start again......I have replaced with stainless, but not sure if this is the right move as staino is soft as sh*te and easy to strip the head out on a C/S M6 with an allen key.
I suppose I will just have to undo them once a week to keep them free.....
I feel like removing every bolt from the bike and replacing them all......I know it's the right weather for it.....!
The wife and kiddies are beginning to think I live in the garage, and that it must be like narnia when I close the door. They're all banned from there as a mans garage is his refuge, the only place on the property that has peace and tranquility, apart from the times I cant get bolts to undo !!!
The nut holding the villiers flywheel to the crankshaft spline was tightened with a Villiers special tool. A ring spanner with a cast head which was bashed with a hammer until (hammertight) nut was tight!
Here is the beast
Thanks for the explanation, did it come with a "calibrated" hammer ?
Priceless..what were they gonna do when they came to a lock?
Luckily there are many trials coming up anytime soon so it's not a huge problem!
Hylomar/coolant Drain Plug/de-coke Middle Box.
in Gas Gas
Posted
High temp silicon is available through motor factors, comes in a pressurized container.