Wouldn't use the method of stopping the engine you describe. You can get flywheel holding tools, not sure whats available for yours. You should buy a good quality torque wrench, will always come in useful.
A method for stopping the flywheel rotating I use is - an old leather belt, one end vice gripped to the foot rest or similar. Wrap the other end round the circumference of the flywheel, overlapping the free end. Hold the belt and revolve the flywheel, this will tighten it up till it grips, then torque to the setting. Various people recommend tapping the bolt and rechecking.
We do need to be aware of the extra info we post by showing off our bike outside our homes for instance.Please just think about the backgound/foreground when posting.
You know,car type,car reg no.garage door colour,garden layout,front door colour,drive-way material etc..I know I'm preaching to the converted on TC but let's not make things easier for the scrotes out there .
As for being followed home by a bike thief I can confirm that this definately happened......(the police nabbed the lad and he explained his M.O.).It happened to me,on my brothers road-bike and I was tailed from the dealers to a temporary storage address not the bikes usual home base.
The bike was used for night-time robberies,it was painted that British Standard colour ''stolen-bike-black'' and modified in a way that made any night-time police vehicle pursuit(without the helicopter) nigh-on impossible( I was asked not to reveal details of that mod).
The theives were so dumb that they didn't wait for the black spray-paint to dry before handling the bike so their prints were permanently embedded .I had to 'donate' my prints so I could be eliminated from the enquiry!
I personally think that trials bikes are like exotic wild animals and should only be photographed in their natural outdoor habitats, not in captivity or.. err..in the bath.
To expand on this topic, I asked the police if was worth keeping an eye on gumtree / evil etc. Also the follow home angle. They said this only happened with exotic cars. Also that most bike were stolen and used and abused until trashed, not sold. They may be traded for drugs etc. The police were at all times polite, and at no time gave me the slightest hope that I would get it back, until scrap, if then. Has anybody got their bike back ?
Some on T C will say this isn't common, but there is a post like yours every few days. First I would start engine, push and engage any gear, drive about with clutch in, as it warms up , use back brake. Be very surprised if it doesn't free off eventually, particularly if is was working before. When fully warm, a change of oils is no bad thing on any bike you dont know the history of.
as society has become more risk aware over the last 5 years it has become very difficult to get insurance for a vehicle on the frame and engine numbers alone. for those too young to remember at the end of every street there used to be an insurance broker you went down put yor money on the table and your car / bike was covered. in todays puter age with insurance at the click of a mouse the scenario of temporay cover on a frame/ engine number only is gone.
so get down your local broker say hello introduce yourself and say you want a limited miles policy and you want something that will give a cover note on engine / frame number for 2 - 4 weeks.
cost wont be an issue as you wont get much if any choice. pay the money register the bike change the details to the reg number. folllowing year you can have a wider choice of insurers .. but.. dont forget the guy who helped you out in the first place..
as for the p65 bike that was registered without being insured.. like me the owner is probably p65 himself and has forgotten.. insurance is essential before registration..
The only problem at the time (was registered for the first pre65 scottish that was on the road) was that DVLA office in Edinburgh said on the phone that they didn't need to see the bike, but when I got there they said they did. In the event they then came to my house to inspect the bike. They were not happy that the frame no wasn't on the head stock. Only accepted it as genuine when I showed them a picture in a Haynes manuel of the number on the engine mounting.
I reckon someone pilfered some of the pics though, either that or the bikes are the latest Stealth or Cloaked versions
It's a really good thing though Andy, and I may even post myself once I have them prettied up for the camera!
But seriously on the subject of the spate of bikes vanishing in Yorkshire?? Or wherever, a few people seem to think they have been followed, if that's the case I can imagine a bit of a setup scenario might work to catch the culprits.
Wayne....
Catch the culprits, would that not be invading their civil liberties, lifestyle choices etc. You'll be getting a knock on the door for even suggesting such a thing.
No, just be patient, it will be returned when its found burnt out, certainly what the police said to me. I'm more than happy to retract the previous comments when I get my bike back in one piece, and make a contribution to a charity.
Interesting, I competed on a '59 Bantam for a couple of years. I finally gave up as they really don't make a very good Trials bike - even after much altering.
Someone has taken quite a bit of time working on this one. It seems to suggest that the Factory had something to do with it .... I really doubt it. I would say that it's a "one-off" that someone built to try riding Trials. Would be fun to try it out.... but sure not worth very much.
Gee I actually remember when you could ges a MX bike to slide! We had a local practice area with a flat track of decent size that if dry and powdery or grasstrack, you could throw the MX'er into a screaming broadslide off the edge of the knobs, and there was a sandtrack down south of here we could ride as well, right next to the MX!
My old CZ would slide like a speedway bike bout a 4-3 dounshift and a pitch left then wide open in the corners! Get the hot shoe with the MX boots on! Of coures they had probbly less suspension than a modern trials bike. Add I was really p****d to find later that none of this modern crap will slide, really! Seems just set for short corners and bite!
The suspension and geometry of newer bikes with longer travel just does not seem to let it happen like the old bikes! This is something few will recall, yet I can even recall (flattracking) the outside line to win many holeshots in the MX events, as everyone on the insidr had to shut off!
Oh well, things change!
Who's up for starting a championship ? Trouble over here would be finding a suitable bendy road.
Good point about the tank being so close to the muffler and the fact there should be some heat reflective material there. I've never noticed my tank go soft around there...although the fuel would be dissipating a lot of the heat so I don't believe it would get anywhere near the 300 degrees mentioned by biffsgasgas.
I've got the bike fully assembled now. The tank went on (with a good hard push) but there's still a 4mm gap on both (lower half) sides and the rear fender is over lapping the tank on either side of it's front wings. This is really looking like it would take more work than a heat gun could muster.....so I'm considering a new 07 tank when I can afford it.
Anyone got an 07 tank they'd like to sell?
Best of balance.
Neo
Why not send an e mail to the factory explaining changing the frame because of cracking and try to get one free / cheap.
Is it possible the new frame is just slightly tighter on the sides and a good firm push would make the tank slide into place?
Heat gun may work, but for some reason my brain is screaming BAD IDEA! with heat and flammable vapors and all. But the heat source is not an open flame...........................I dunno maybe bad idea.
My 2000 for some reason, age of tank or the fact that frame was knackered and rewelded, my tank did not fit all the way down at the seat area. My fix was to drill a new hole for the top mounting bolt closer to the steering head, in effect moved the whole tank forward and up.
What have you got in your tool box apart from hammers ?
I live overseas with long delays to get parts. I've just examined my bike after it revved out FOT to find the flywheel very loose and the woodruff key sheared. If the woodruff key is only used in aligning the flywheel when re-fitting it, then it should be feasible for me to replace the flywheel without it (or with just the broken edge ofthe woodruff key sitting proud (but securely) to ensure the alingment. After all, the bolt holding the two tapers together should ensure the flywheel sits securely.
Would you agree, or is the woodruff absolutely necessary to get an exact alignment? Would you receommend I wait to get a woodruff key delivered?
Ian
As an absolute last resort, I heard of people using a bit of a small spanner cut and adjusted to fit.
Has my mother been out on her R1 again ! Told her not to until she gets her air jacket. (UK doctors, between puffing their cigarettes and slugging whiskey, have recommended that motorcyclist should wear an air bag type jacket. This would cut down on fatalities caused by c-dif on admission to hospitals)
and modified in a way that made any night-time police vehicle pursuit(without the helicopter) nigh-on impossible( I was asked not to reveal details of that mod).
.I had to 'donate' my prints so I could be eliminated from the enquiry!
280 Pro Flywheel Torque
in Gas Gas
Posted
Wouldn't use the method of stopping the engine you describe. You can get flywheel holding tools, not sure whats available for yours. You should buy a good quality torque wrench, will always come in useful.
A method for stopping the flywheel rotating I use is - an old leather belt, one end vice gripped to the foot rest or similar. Wrap the other end round the circumference of the flywheel, overlapping the free end. Hold the belt and revolve the flywheel, this will tighten it up till it grips, then torque to the setting. Various people recommend tapping the bolt and rechecking.