My understanding is you don't want numbers that divide to an even number like 12/48 =4, you would be better off with 12/49 =4.083. If the number is even the same place in the chain will contact with the same place on the sprocket every few revolutions, if it is odd the chain will not hit the same place on the sprocket, so less wear ?
What if you have a half link in the chain ? That would bugger the theory ?
Is that the correct plug for a climber ? Thopught most trials plugs had a projected nose, making them run hotter to burn the crap off. I'd check that first.
If you don't mind having a Q plate you can register it like a farm vehicle and you won't need MOT or insurance
You sure ? Only if the vehicle is more than (I think ) 35 years old , can you run without mot or road tax, still has to be insured. Q plates were for vehicles that had been written off, then put back on the road, or if age couldn't be determined ?
Farm vehicles can only run a very short distance from the registered farm without being totally legal.
The logic is that it is better to reduce the frequency of repeated patterns of tooth combination. For example with the 10:40, the same tooth on the rear sprocket is in contact with the one tooth on the front sprocket every time the wheel rotates.
Spark is good and strong bit plug seems to be very wet it's an air screw type I've got it at 1 and half ISH out
So when the bike boggs and stops, you take the plug out and your getting a good spark ? At that stage have you tried a new plug ? A picture of the plug would also be useful.
Your ignition is probably dying, are you getting a spark ? A company in Germany do a replacement, not cheap. Maybe get the stator and cdi checked by Bradford Ingnitions .
What carb is on it ? If its an air screw Dellorto they can be temperamental, try get a loan of a petrol screw one to eliminate that.
I'm assuming your getting a good spark when it stops ?
Sorry I can’t help, but just wondered how you like the helmet. I was tempted, but opted for a conventional Airoh in the end. The Zone 5 is about 30% heavier than the Airoh, and lots of people seemed to think that was important. I was sceptical, but decided to play safe and go with lightweight.
Zone 5 is a great helmet imo, never noticed any weight issues, the eye protection it offers is the most important factor.
I bought a kickstart from Phillips at old nobblies, seems good quality, and if its not exactly the correct fit it can be reshaped if you have access to Oxy acetylene.
The only way to stop this is to have some hard and fast rules about what is accepetable and whats not...In Spain, they have in my opinion the best trials and the best rules.. your bike is vetted and if it conforms to how it should be then you can ride in the appropriate class. A friend of mind cut the bottom rails off his 1973/4 Bultaco, so now he has to ride pre 80 no if's no buts. Its a can or worms on what should be allowed and what consitutes a mod to far... something that needs discussing in a sensible way.
I would go one step further and introduce a handy cap system, really level the playing field.
Interesting article b40rt on over greasing bearings, some of the negatives pertaining to high spinning loads and bearings near electrical components. My own observations of owning dirt bikes for 45 of my 60 years is if you run stock bearings in muddy wet conditions they generally last 6 - 12 months before you have to push them out and replace them (10 to 16 weeks on the old one sided wheel bearings that came on 1980s Honda CR250s). I Peeled the seal in May 2016 and added a smoochload, resealed them, and they where perfect when i looked at them last week on my 2016 Beta 4T Evo, which i ride usually once a week in the wet west coast rain forest's where i live. If you are lucky enough to live in a sunny climate and only have to dust off your bike once and a while I'm sure your wheel bearings will last much longer. Maybe as a good experiment just do the right side rear and front wheel bearings on your bike, leave the left side alone, then you will have a more accurate results to judge by.
Hi Carlos, in the past I've done exactly as you do, but have discovered for my specific use leaving them as delivered is best. I accept that different conditions require different approaches.
It's a pity that Dunlop don't make the proper old style trials wellys anymore, thick rubber with good penetration protection,steel midsole and toe-cap and 100% waterproof ! What more could you ask for? (Bit cold though in winter ? )
0% lower leg protection, 1st hand (shin) experience.
The trick is to very carefully peel the outer seal off with a small pick, when the bike (or bearings) are brand new, then put in a bunch more wheel bearing grease, then put the seal carefully back on. Stock bearings from the factory have only a minimum amount in them (maybe 40%) of what can be put in there. Still on the original wheelbearings on my 2016 and 2017 models, and i subject my bikes to a lot of mud and water riding in the Pacific rain forests.
Super rich running txt 250
in Gas Gas
Posted · Edited by b40rt
Are you losing gear oil ? Does it smell like burning gear oil ?
Talk the exhaust off and clean it out.
What was the plug like when it stopped ?
Are you getting a spark ?