Re spacer, I had thought about enlarging to holes in the sprocket and having bosses on the spacer that the sprocket then sits on. Hopefully this would transfer the load onto the spacer and then to the hub. Pity you cant get dished sprockets. All hypothetical as my hub died and is going to be replaced with a dished wheel. Clearance is not an issue on the right side of my B40.
Most guys carry fuel in their rucksacks in any case.
I have seen guys pushing their bikes off the moors, the army lads also yomping across the moors with jerry cans..................both not funny!!!!!
Might be true, but the club cannot legally condone such practices. None of this matters until there's an accident. The fear is that the club is sued for letting the rider do something unwise.
There are many mods available, I lengthened my s/a to give more clearance at the front, reduced the right hand side arm profile to give more tyre to arm clearance, offset the rim to the right to clear the chain ( this required cutting and rewelding the hub by 1/2 an inch) also fitted spacer between sprocket and hub, then offsetting engine to the left using spacers and "leaning" on fwd mount bracket.
Ray Small did the s/arm mods
"Wheelwise" the hub and wheel mods.
I dont have any pics sorry.
After all that expense I still fall off most of the time!
triton
I asked a question some time ago about putting a spacer between sprocket and hub, the general consensus was don't. What thickness did you use and were there and problems ?
have an 3.2 and idd it vibrates more (but i think its normal big single 4 strokes do that) than a 2 stroke or a cota 4 rt
it grips great but you have to be used to it, if you ride it like a 2T (a lot of gas) it doesnt work (look at toni bou he understands how to make a 4stroke grip)
i like my bike a lot more than my 4 rt i had before (and that was a good bike to) but it is not an easy bike and you have to make it grip using bottom power and a tall gear
it takes some time for someone who is used to a 2t. It is a different style of riding and some like it others dont, you should try the bikes, there all good.
regards bob
To get a 4t to grip you have to have faith and confidence.
Thanks, don't know how I missed that... I must be new with computers or something.
Oddly it looks like the same spot in the swingarm that broke on Billy Burns ISDE 300EC. Maybe cast alloy isn't such a great idea for a swingarm,
or frame members period, like the Suzuki GSXR frame thats known for breaking.
Depends on the alloy and how much the designers allow as a margin weight v strength. Frequently weight is reduced and reduced untill something breaks, then they go back a step.
The rear one is going to be the annoyingly costly one unless you got a tame machinist. We are rarely tame hahaha.
It's also the hub which takes the most load of course with the sprocket driving it. I guess it all depends of how much meat there is as you don't want to machine the drum too thin either. Pressed on might not be enough.
I have a similar problem with a Grimeca alloy hub on an Ossa gripper, the sprocket bolts have ripped through their bosses. Probably caused by loose bolts or it could be a known issue.
Wayne....
Just swapped a Grimeca rear hub on my Aprilia, bosses are undamaged, unfortunately the iron insert is worn out. You can only pack the shoes out so many times. I always locktite the bolts as they are were prone to coming lose.
I'd say they were at end of life <slight understatement>. Cast Iron can be successfully welded or brazed, but in this instance I'd advise against it.
Only possible repair scenario I could think of is the machine off the whole flange and sweat a newly machined steel one in it's place, but thats likely to cost more than a replacement hub I'd guess.
Are they Bantam hubs?
Wayne....
Hi Wayne
They were cub hubs, the rear had been widened buy about 20mm. They had been really good up till now ! I think the spokes were stainless, which might have accelerated up their demise, as apparently stainless has no "give" Putting a steel flange on may be a possibility, as basically the other side is a pressed on flange.
Go to Youtube type Mick Andrews Larchant and watch the video. And if there is someone who can post a link can you post it here and tell me how to do it. Thanks
i use photobucket.com to host pics then to add them to the post i just hit the little button with a photo on it, second to the right from the smilys. then when the box comes up asking for the URL give it the direct link URL from the photo.
this is the direct link URL for this photo:http://i311.photobucket.com/albums/kk448/ggprotrialer/hotdogs.jpg
hope this helps!
I followed your instructions and they work ! Been trying to get these pictures on for some time but they were to big or something.
I wouldn't advise altering the clutch itself as these bikes were NOT designed to be ridden in sections using the clutch. (See Mick Andrews!) If you want an easier pull then the best course of action is to fit a new modern cable with either a clutch lightener device or splash out and use one of the newer and of course more expensive levers. The new levers come with needle roller bearings in the perch and are a delight to use. I have the new levers on several of my bikes, but in general terms you are far better learning to ride without touching the "thing" after you have set off into the section. If you have your bike set up to idle, then reduce it to the stall and try riding sections just using delicate throttle control and letting the flywheel action take you through tight turns where you thought you would need that clutch thing!
Tony
You talk about using the clutch the way I talk about hopping !
Cub - Wide Swinging Arm
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
Re spacer, I had thought about enlarging to holes in the sprocket and having bosses on the spacer that the sprocket then sits on. Hopefully this would transfer the load onto the spacer and then to the hub. Pity you cant get dished sprockets. All hypothetical as my hub died and is going to be replaced with a dished wheel. Clearance is not an issue on the right side of my B40.
Ross