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b40rt

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Posts posted by b40rt

  1. ·

    Edited by B40RT

    I'd say they were at end of life <slight understatement>. Cast Iron can be successfully welded or brazed, but in this instance I'd advise against it.

    Only possible repair scenario I could think of is the machine off the whole flange and sweat a newly machined steel one in it's place, but thats likely to cost more than a replacement hub I'd guess.

    Are they Bantam hubs?

    Wayne....

    Hi Wayne

    They were cub hubs, the rear had been widened buy about 20mm. They had been really good up till now ! I think the spokes were stainless, which might have accelerated up their demise, as apparently stainless has no "give" Putting a steel flange on may be a possibility, as basically the other side is a pressed on flange.

    Ross

  2. i use photobucket.com to host pics then to add them to the post i just hit the little button with a photo on it, second to the right from the smilys. then when the box comes up asking for the URL give it the direct link URL from the photo.

    this is the direct link URL for this photo:http://i311.photobucket.com/albums/kk448/ggprotrialer/hotdogs.jpg

    hotdogs.jpg

    hope this helps! :huh:

    I followed your instructions and they work ! Been trying to get these pictures on for some time but they were to big or something.

    Thanks

    Ross

  3. I wouldn't advise altering the clutch itself as these bikes were NOT designed to be ridden in sections using the clutch. (See Mick Andrews!) If you want an easier pull then the best course of action is to fit a new modern cable with either a clutch lightener device or splash out and use one of the newer and of course more expensive levers. The new levers come with needle roller bearings in the perch and are a delight to use. I have the new levers on several of my bikes, but in general terms you are far better learning to ride without touching the "thing" after you have set off into the section. If you have your bike set up to idle, then reduce it to the stall and try riding sections just using delicate throttle control and letting the flywheel action take you through tight turns where you thought you would need that clutch thing!

    Tony

    You talk about using the clutch the way I talk about hopping !

  4. You are correct it is a monoshock.

    Looks like a trip to Halfords is needed.

    Are you sure it is 14mm? I measured an thought it was 12mm but I could be wrong.

    Thanks

    As woody said, find a nut or bolt that fits in and take it along as a guide.

  5. i recently lightly dropped my bike in the forest and dented the radiator, it didnt seem a hard drop at all but unfortunately it put a hole in the radiator where i needed a new one, anyway,

    i rang a well known gas gas parts dealer who is actually very good to deal with and ordered up a new rad, costing

  6. I use a gasket on my 240 with a bit of silicone around the wiring where it goes through the rubber gromet, and it doesnt leak at all.

    I know a lot of people use power washers on bikes but I would save it for cleaning the patio, if you clean your bike after each event there wont be anything that would need a power washer to get it off anyway.

    Area completely, power washers aren't quite as bad as washing your bike in the sea, but a close second.

  7. All depends where you ride as to how tight sections will be. You can still ride logs, hills etc etc and still trick ride!!!!!!

    However, I feel the rules are now correct. Why was we the only country riding under the old rules??

    Stopping and Hopping is a part of modern trials riding and I cannot understand why people are complaining about it.

    You dont HAVE to stop and hop so if you dont want to - dont do it.

    If a all the sections are laid out too tight to ride without any hopping then I this would be a problem but in all honesty it shouldn't happen if a club knows how to lay out a trial for all riders. But to be fair I think most peopple an manage a little hop to get round a tight turn. If not you're gonna have to have a dab.

    It makes SOOOO much more sense to have these current rules as it clears the confusion for observers. i.e stop = 1 point, stop and foot down = ?? god knows...... So long as the rider is making an attempt a foot down should be 1 point. If they are just sitting there doing nothing then yes it should be a 5. Easy to follow for all.

    Just my opinion and I am not a great trick rider at all.

    Last trial I observed at some of the riders thought stopped with foot down is a one. It was a no stop trial.

    So under the new rules ???????????

  8. In the past when I clicked on a topic the answers came up as an abbreviated list, now everything comes up in full and I have to scroll all the way down to the bottom. Any one know how to change it back ?

  9. This is the supposed radio conversation of a US naval ship communicating

    with Canadian authorities off the coast of Newfoundland in October 1995.

    The Radio conversation was released by the chief of naval operations on

    10-Oct-1995.

    CANADIANS : please divert your course 15 degrees to the south to avoid

    a collision.

    AMERICANS : We recommend you divert your course 15 degrees to the north to avoid a collision.

    CANADIANS : Negative, you will have to divert your course 15 degrees to

    the south to avoid a collision.

    AMERICANS : this is the captain of a US Navy Ship, I repeat divert your

    course.

    CANADIANS : NO, I say again, you divert your course NOW.

    AMERICANS : This is the Aircraft Carrier USS LINCOLN, the second largest ship in the United States Atlantic Fleet, We are accompanied

    by 3 destroyers, 3 cruisers, and numerous support vessels, I DEMAND

    that you change your course 15 degrees to the north, I repeat that's

    15 degrees to the north, i repeat that's one five degrees to the north or

    counter-measures will be undertaken to ensure the safety of this fleet.

    CANADIANS : this is the off shore Newfoundland lighthouse, your call !

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