The humane body is proportianate, nothing should really matter. You do not see short people raising the pegs and lowering the bars. You actually have quite the gift, grasshopper like jumping ability. Forever long dabs. My little boy is 6` 5. he fits a stock bike nicely.
So riding a ty80 (as I know you do) feels exactly the same as an adult sized bike ?
i use opti lube a smokeless synthetic...awesome stuff.i run my bikes my saw and weed whipper all at 60:1.premix.been doing this for 10 years.my buddy runs his ty's at 80:1(same oil) and swears by it.i found my 91 ty started knocking a bit on climbs so i went richer.at 50:1 or more the smoke gets too thick to ride....
Knocking on climbs is more likely timing, or octane to low. Increasing 2 stroke ratio will actually make it marginally worse.
As it says. I’d like to strip and rebuild my forks and fit new SKF seals. Rather than strip everything and then order once measured can someone let me know the dimensions of the parts?
I will be ordering from a supplier who doesn’t do bike model specifically but can match up dimensions no problem.
thanks in advance.
There is a difference between rotary seals and hydraulic type. Rotary will wear very fast.
Reading back I can see now that the original poster was asking about a specific make and model. In my haste I thought he was considering the more general case of moving from 2stroke to 4 stroke, but, prompted to re read it by your question, I can see I was wrong in this respect. Perhaps, as I thought, it is good to hear that other 4 strokes are worth considering when you are thinking of a new purchase such as this? Maybe you think not, although I see you mentioned that your son also likes the Beta 4 stroke, so perhaps you might have used the opportunity to elaborate on this? The original poster did reply to me courteously so although you seem to have a problem with my contribution, I suspect he has not been overly upset by it and he will choose to ignore it as the ramblings of an old man if he wishes. I will continue to offer positive advice and support within the parameters of my limited experience but I will endeavour to keep more closely on topic in future. Thank you for putting me straight.
lineaway tends to be a bit blunt, but I think his intentions and depth of experience make his contributions worth considering.
After watching a tonibou video I realized im too lame to compete.
I rarely watch TB, as I don't really consider what he does as trials. Have a look at this, just a group of like minded people having fun. Some extremely skilful, some not so.
Don't know why the start came up , look further down for the sections.
I can’t check as the bike is stripped, but the rear sprocket has noticeably more wear on the inside suggesting that it is offset to the right of the front sprocket.
This supports the swing-arm being twisted to the right.
So how do I straighten a swing-arm?
If its only a small twist, adjust the snailcams until the sprockets align, ride and enjoy.
All you need to be legal is a continuous note horn and a speedometer, then you get a daytime mot.
Many inspectors insist on a reflector as well, even for a daylight mot. Also fit a legal size number plate. Tyres should be own up to 20psi, directional arrows can be picked up on, as can cuts in sidewalls.
Whilst no expert on the mechanics of bikes, I assume this new fad is to do with the new / modern... classic sections, where you need quick zippy power.
I believe in moderation in everything, including flywheels.
@dozerash, have you read through the many posts that appear earlier on the swm forum ? All the info is there about clutch springs, adjustments, leavers etc
Have you extended the arm inside the clutch casing ? An all day one finger clutch is possible without using hydraulics.
I've heard there is also lining material designed to work on brakes that operate under water and that this material works well on trials bikes (that often have wet brakes) but I haven't tried it yet
This material actually works best (IMO) when it is wet, its only negative is it can be a be grabby when feathering the front brake.
Without sag the suspension cannot react as effectively, i.e. it allows the wheels to drop into dips and follow the terrain more precisely, improving grip. Particularly in very slippery conditions.
Rock the bike and get it into neutral. Make sure it is neutral and not a false position. Start the bike and get it thoroughly warmed up. Make sure you have approx 2-3mm free play at the clutch lever ( on handle bars). While you are warming up the engine operate the clutch lever a few times. Now kill the engine, select second gear and try to move the bike with the clutch lever pulled in. If its still stuck then the first course of action is to dump the clutch oil and fill with the correct quantity of ATF. Now each time before you start the bike do as previously suggested, select second or third and pull the clutch in and rock the bike back and forth....this normally works. Even if you stripped the clutch and deburred the clutch basket and thoroughly checked the plates you might still have a stuck clutch after a few days standing idle. Bultacos suffer the same issue....not all but quite a few. Making sure the clutch operating mechanism is well serviced and set up is a good idea in any case, especially ensuring the best cable run and cable freedom. Hope you adjust to the issue??
@feetupfun , I agree, and I have a brembo disc and m/c on another bike and they are no better than a good condition standard setup with modern brake shoes.
Anyone over 200cm/6’ 7” tall? Bike set up question.
in General Trials Talk
Posted
So riding a ty80 (as I know you do) feels exactly the same as an adult sized bike ?