I am not so sure what "water wetter" is but does it not say on the bottle? Are you adding it to straight water or to coolant? I usually run coolant mixed with water to get a freezing point of about -35 degrees C, always using a coolant formulated for light alloy engines (stops internal corrosion).
These are conventional oil shocks, they have DOT as manufactures / model name, black body, crome springs. Fitted to my B40. Purchased from Jimmy Morton Motorcycle at Mauchline, for trials. Cant really fault them.
trialsbits.co.uk supply a range of lenghts and bends but you have to roll the threads youself. (however they also sell thread rolling equipment if your pockets are deep enough )
on the subject of engine breathing - might as well think of that while I wait for the bearing - I have been toying with the idea mentioned in Ruperts book re:B50 breathing with 2 x 10mm holes drilled from the drive side into the lower crankase. These holes are supposed to be drilled at a height which will act as a weir and hold "engine oil" in the primary case. The primary gear and the engine would therefore share an oil supply. I like the idea of a single oil level to monitor but I have been unable to find out any more details or get sight of a B50 casing to have a look. I think it may provide "too much" breathing for the engine but I would be interested in anyones input. Rgds Nigel
I thought long and hard about that and decided against it for the drive side bearing and removed both to provide continuous oil feed. Could have left the outermost but was concerned about crankcase pressure.
The sleeve gear bearing I did leave the outermost to help the oilseal keep the muck out. When I stripped engine there was 1/4 inch of what could only be described as MUD in the sump well. I have allowed for gearbox pressure by venting the filler cap with a .8mm hole drilled to vent at the side of the bolt and not the top.
I drilled a hole in one of the tappet covers on my B40, it breathes pretty hard through that. Did this several years ago and without tempting fate, reduces oil leakes elsewhere.
I think the 6004 bearing is common in the modern bikes and can take a pounding. Hopefully you can find an off the shelf axle long enough to work as I do believe these are hardened alloys. The Sherco uses a straight shaft for example. The assembly is fairly wide to accomodate the disk and such. One could cut one down if needed and rethread! At a quick measure, the shaft seems just over 9 inches including the threads.
Thanks Copemech, I'm not concerned about the bearings so much as the axle, I have since spoken to a machine shop who also think a 15mm axle would be strong enough, as long as it was quality steel. The 20mm option is more for using an alloy axle, but would require widening the slot on the swinging arm, which may be just moving the problem somewhere else.
Jings, he mings.
Water Wetter Again
in Beta
Posted
Who's Dennis Miller ?