I think the 6004 bearing is common in the modern bikes and can take a pounding. Hopefully you can find an off the shelf axle long enough to work as I do believe these are hardened alloys. The Sherco uses a straight shaft for example. The assembly is fairly wide to accomodate the disk and such. One could cut one down if needed and rethread! At a quick measure, the shaft seems just over 9 inches including the threads.
Thanks Copemech, I'm not concerned about the bearings so much as the axle, I have since spoken to a machine shop who also think a 15mm axle would be strong enough, as long as it was quality steel. The 20mm option is more for using an alloy axle, but would require widening the slot on the swinging arm, which may be just moving the problem somewhere else.
I'm in the process of building new wheels and my dilema is axle diameter. The hubs dictate that I can use either a 20mm dia axle or 15mm dia axle, (bearing size 6004 2rs or 6302 2rs). I'm quite happy to run with a 15 mm axle in the front, but not so sure about the back. When the axle is turned up for the rear I won't have a spacer, just increase the dia to approx 23mm x 100mm between the bearings (ie a stepped axle) I would rather go for a 15mm axle, and am looking for re-assurance that it would be strong enough.
Its for a B40 and I am approx 13 stone in weight. (I will have conventional spacer between the bearing in the front.)
Most of these treatments work best when your boots are still damp, stuff them with paper, treatment on, leave and the treatment is drawn through. Job done. ( for this week anyway)
I for one think Lewis should win... END OF STORY.... lalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalala .... I not listening to anybody that does not agree with me ... lalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalala
You remind me of my brother, when he was three, thirteen, twenty three etc etc
Yes I found the bearing on Simply Bearings Last night. I have spoken with my Machinist mate today, and he said it would probably be better to grind the races, and use phospher bronze for the two washer/spacers. that hold the oil presure in.
I will order a bearing along with the drivside main and gearbox etc , tomorrow.
Another tip I have found out is to use double rubber sealed bearings, and just remove one for the drive side main, keep both in for the rest, and this stops most of the oil leaks. And for the amount of work that a trials bike does,they will be fine with there own lubrication.
Will let you know how we get on mate. Good luck with yours in the mean time.
Regard's Charlie.
If you ever pick out the rubber seal on a new bearing you will be shocked at the tiny amount of grease in there, probably worth adding some.
i think its a case of you dont get what you dont pay for.
I had the misfortune to buy a China built quad for my lad.
The chain wore out after a couple of outings and was actually made up of 4 short peices with 4 split links.
The "paint" fell off the frame after a few months, whilst rectifying that I spotted that most of the joints were at best tack welded. Whilst re-welding the frame it came to light that the tubes was little better than conduit.
a few months later he had managed to wear a hole in the clutch cover with his muddy boots.........
The electics were a night mare..
No spares back up, no re-sale value... it would have been cheaper to buy a Suzuki.
The moral of this sorry tale is not to buy anything untill it has been on the market for a while and all the teething problems are sorted / known about.
Found some info and it said Zip Karts with two 256 rotech engines not sure if those are the ones in the video. B40RT a clutch was my first guess too but if you look at the video i,m not sure anymore ?
Right at the end, the driver cuts the engine and coasts in with the left pedal right down.
Say what you like(good input),but I have often thought that if a bike were going to production in China for the masses it should be the 200 in this basic config or better!
A nice simple 4T that works well and inexpensive to maintain with inexpensive readily available parts.
There was/ is someone associated with Cotswalds classics that will do you a chineese motor 200 in a Majesty frame reproduction that I inquired about some time back. Cost as much as a new mod bike so that put me out.
If they can build radical tricked out pit bikes for nought, you would think they could do something worthwhile!
You blokes that are heavily into this stuff may have different views, not sure.
The cost is related to what they think you can afford. Take TY80's, they were a fraction of the price of a full sized bike, buy actually probably cost more to produce.
Jings, he mings.
Kenny The Rooster - Contains Adult Humour
in Anything goes
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