Just bought a '97 Beta Techno 250 and as one does after buying a used bike....started to give her the once over maintenance treatment to make sure all is okay..
Just pulled off the steering head and unfortunately both steering bearings are pretty worn and sick looking...so, time for replacing..
Problem is, I can see the brand of the bearing..being KOYO...but I cannot see a model number....can anyone enlighten me as to what I am to ask for over the counter at my local bearing supplier??
The Beta Manual nor parts catalogue does not tell you what the brand/model number is of these bearings!!
Another question as well... the bottom bearing appears to be seized on the shaft....any suggestions how I can get this off without damaging anything??
Your assistance would be greatly appreciated!!
Cheers!
Are both bearings the same ? if so take one as a sample and the bearing shop should be able to match it for you. Personally I would use a grinder (very carefully) if the bearing is well siezed.
I've swapped front rims in the past by taping the new rim to the old with all the holes lined up. Slacken the spokes right off, then move the spokes across one at a time, doing the nearest side first. No doubt someone will say if this is not possible with a rear.
Have you checked to see it there is any chrome left in the hubs ? As you will probably remember it had a habit of flacking off, in the UK environment anyway.
ive entered the nostalga trial and was wondering what to expect in terms of sections and hardness of them. ive entered the easy course on a tlr.(not done many on it) cheers
Mike - your lucky to get an entry, how long ago did you enter ?
I am looking at a new 2007 TXT 300 Pro (homologated) that seized up during the dealer prep. Apparently, the dealer did not get the throttle cable seated and it revved to the moon until it seized. It has been fitted with a new piston and the dealer will warranty it for 3 months. Is there anything I should look into or be concerned with on such a bike? Could there have been lower end damage? What should I expect to have to pay for such a bike?
Thanks!
Rod
You dont mention how much cheeper it is over stock ? Personaly it would have to be considerably less to take the risk, unless I knew and trusted the dealer, and even then I would be checking the small print in the warranty. Also, any new bike that I had to consider adding flywheel weights / base gaskets etc ! Might be better options.
Was planning Kendal this year but I'm a bit busy at work at the moment, so can't manage it! I have heard before that the Kendal Classic is a very good event, pass the word round when you are there that the guys should mark the Highland Classic 2DT at Alvie date in their diary for next year!
Big John
Hi John
Unfortunatly I will not be able to tell anyone of the fantastic Highland Two Day Trial, as I have just received my entry returned after 2.5 weeks as trial now full !
~Can anyone advise me on changing fork oil. Is it a simple proceess of turning forks upside down and draining oil overnight then refilling to reccomonded height. Thanks
Somebody will give you specific info, but I imagine there will be a drain scew at the bottom. Remove and gently pump forks to eject oil.
It is not uncommon for the bearing separator to come apart. But while you have it apart be sure to split the crank and check the needle bearing separator on the big end of the rod as well.
Never attempt to teach a pig to sing etc - sounds like the wisdom of Hommer ?
I've got one of the paper shop manuals. I think it can also be downloaded from the KT/KX site.
I wouldn't have guess the stock ignition would fire a .075" spark plug gap, especially when chugging along at very low RPM. .024-.028" is the factory specification. If you can get it to do it, wider gaps are usually better.
The forks on my bike do top out with a noticeable clank (perhaps more felt through the bars than heard) sometimes. I'm going to look more closely at sag when I get it running. I'm about 200 lbf when ready to ride and I suspect the target rider was more in the 170 lbf range. Some stronger springs might be in order.
My bike was on pre-mix when I got it, and I think a lot of KT owners have gone that route.
I got a box from Buchanan's yesterday filled with hubs, rims and spokes. The front hub is now cleaned up and ready to accept new wheel bearings. I'm going to try and get the rear wheel to that point tonight.
cheers,
Michael
Hi Michael
Sorry havn't been on this thread recently, the KT I had was fine off road, but at the time I also used it for transport, and on over run would bang quite alarmingly
(not in the exhaust, in the cylinder) I did have it running for a short time with no side electrode ! But compromised with a huge gap.
Never found power to be a problem, but then my previouse bike was a TL125, with a 60 tooth rear sprocket.
Can we assume the bike wasn't new when you rode it? How would you describe the condition (showroom, used, thrashed) and did that have anything to do with the "issues"?
Hi swoshdave
Sorry I havnt checked this thread recently, I bought my KT new from the then Edinburgh Kawasaki dealer, so I feel that the handling observations I made
(rightly or wrongly) were inherant. One of the technicians at Napier College who also had one went to the extent of building a new frame. Monoshock no less.
He also did alot of engine work, but unfortunatly I never rod it so cant coment on how it performed.
The only problem (apart from the crap side stand) I had was it ran out of sparks, the cure was to remove the CDI unit and sit it on a radiator for a few days.
One thing is that for a newcomer a bike over 260 cc's might be a bit too much, unless you are quite heavy. The GasGas "Raga" version (which I pine for myself) is likely not what you want. But the "regular" GasGases, in 250 CC, would be where I would start if I was you.
CHECK ON SERVICE OF ALL BRANDS IN YOUR AREA, AS IF YOU CAN'T GET IT SERVICED LOCALLY YOU MIGHT REGRET BUYING A PARTICULAR BRAND!
You success in the sections will be mainly dependent on these 3 rules:
1. Practice.
2. See rule #1.
3. See rule #2.
Knee pads and TRIALS (not motocross or enduro!!) boots and a helmet are a "must".
Softening The Controls
in Sherco
Posted