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Try old plug again.
Or fuel tap off, plug out, kick several times as maybe build up of fuel in crank case.
Try kicking plug in, fuel off, no choke.
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It may already be registered, many of that age are. Contact ducks to check that first.
spellchecker ...dvla
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There is a difference between rotary seals and hydraulic type. Rotary will wear very fast.
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Don't think this will work, doesn't change the spring rate, but will become coil bound.
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No money owed, met you at Robregordo, pre65 etc ?
Ross
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https://picclick.co.uk/Comerford-Cub-Trials-Bike-232809481791.html#&gid=1&pid=1
This it ? Are you Bruce W ?
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lineaway tends to be a bit blunt, but I think his intentions and depth of experience make his contributions worth considering.
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I rarely watch TB, as I don't really consider what he does as trials. Have a look at this, just a group of like minded people having fun. Some extremely skilful, some not so.
Don't know why the start came up , look further down for the sections.
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Have you spoken to in motion, they maybe have a spare one for sale. I think you would need a jig and Oxy acetylene to straighten your current one.
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If its only a small twist, adjust the snailcams until the sprockets align, ride and enjoy.
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They were hard to get out 40 years ago, have you tried heating the head rather than the studs ?
If you end up cutting them off, at least you have a flat face to drill.
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Your probably correct, but for 50p I'd fit one in case the mot inspector doesn't know that.
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Many inspectors insist on a reflector as well, even for a daylight mot. Also fit a legal size number plate. Tyres should be own up to 20psi, directional arrows can be picked up on, as can cuts in sidewalls.
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I believe in moderation in everything, including flywheels.
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Just takes practice, on or off the bike.
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@dozerash, have you read through the many posts that appear earlier on the swm forum ? All the info is there about clutch springs, adjustments, leavers etc
Have you extended the arm inside the clutch casing ? An all day one finger clutch is possible without using hydraulics.
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This material actually works best (IMO) when it is wet, its only negative is it can be a be grabby when feathering the front brake.
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Without sag the suspension cannot react as effectively, i.e. it allows the wheels to drop into dips and follow the terrain more precisely, improving grip. Particularly in very slippery conditions.
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Have you checked which springs are in the clutch ?
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I ride around with clutch pulled in untill it disengages, slightly kinder.
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@feetupfun , I agree, and I have a brembo disc and m/c on another bike and they are no better than a good condition standard setup with modern brake shoes.
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What condition is your front tyre ? What make is it, 5psi in a decent quality tyre should be about right.
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Are you using the clutch ? Maybe drag the back brake a little. Handlebars a little further forward to put more weight onto front tyre.
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