Are you seriously saying the previous woodruff key was made from a penny?! When i seen the state of the heads of the Philips screws i knew someone had obviously been playing silly buggers with your ignition at some point in the past
Shouldn't matter what the woodruff key is made of, its only purpose is to locate the flywheel correctly. If the key is constantly sheering there is another issue. Timing as has been said, faulty ignition, or the taper/ flywheel is damaged.
Hi there I've been offerd a b40 bsa otter fully rebuilt for 3 k foster frame . Tiger cub hubs complete engine rebuild new carb etc is this about the going price these days
If its ready to trial sounds a good price. If it needs shocks, tyres, cables, bars, levers, ignition, forks etc - its expensive.
I bring spares to long rides in the mountains, but for races, only lubricants, tools, fuel, energy bars and a change of clothes. If anything important breaks, I'd retire.
Never say die, one well known classic rider swapped engines during the pre65 and finished on time.
But shouldn't it slip all the time if there wasn't? Or can this cause drag too?
The slack at the lever allows the piston in the master cylinder to pass the ports, this gets fluid into the system. When next you pull the clutch the clutch plates open further reducing the drag. This may not be the problem but worth checking.
As the front is tubed there is the possibility for water to get into the tyre without a deflation. The water would then sit there until some reason to remove the tyre. I would imagine this is a corrosion point and one for most bikes.
There are some very good modern paints that would address the issue. Assuming the rim is not toast! It would need to be very bad corrosion for s structural failure. This has made me think it is perhaps worth taking off the front tyre and checking the rim maybe once a year so you can put a lick of paint/enamel on it. But - I have to be honest - I am lazy and will forget ?
After a wet trial / washing, position the valve at lowest point, inflate to 30 psi. Most of the water will be forced out.
They don't look to bad to me, just clean up the front with a wire brush. As you said your not intending on competing, why not put a tube in the back ? You will have to drill the rim and fit a rim lock to stop the valve getting ripped out.
@archiel. If you remove the flywheel nut, you maybe able to see the end of the woodruff key / slot. This will eliminate / confirm if this is the issue.
It would not prove anything .Even at club level the sport is at 2 levels riders that are 100% committed to trials and the other level are the play riders
Maybe, don't think either of us will be proven right soon ?
You will need a puller, do not be tempted to try hammers / leavers etc. It will end in tears. Another way to stop flywheel rotating is get an old belt, about 50mm wide, wynd the belt round the flywheel 2/3 turns, then clamp free end to footrest. The idea is that as you start to undo the nut, the belt tights onto itself, stopping the flywheel rotating. You can tighten the nut but reversing the direction of the belt.
I have a fifty year old pair of DRs which admittedly are too thin and soft to be used in anger any more and a newer pair of Gaernes which are only about forty years old. I just wash them with cold water let them dry and then rub in some dubbin. The Gaernes are still waterproof. (I have replaced the front linings with leather).
I must have had 10 pairs of boots over the years, and none of them have even been waterproof, even when new. Goretex socks are the closest to dry feet in my experience.
Assuming its an amal ? Screw nearest engine is the mixture screw, in for richer. This screw is very sensitive, so make very small adjustments at a time, and only once engine is warm. Screw behind it is tickover, in faster.
Bit the bullet
in Montesa
Posted
Better grip.