Years ago I raced Mx and had YZF 400 Yamaha .If it sat for a week I was difficult to start but if I drained the fuel and put fresh fuel in started no probs.
Someone told me about the fuel loosing its kick in a plastic can so i put an alloy tank on the bike solved all the problems.
So we've went backwards. never used to have any bother ,pistons , barrels ran for ever and always seemed to run fine.
Now if you keep a bike a while they fill up with gunge carbs seem to go out of tune all the time there's always oil lying about motors even if you run them lean.
I don't believe any modern oils are made with slow running cold 2t engines in mind and if they have they've not been tested in my back yard.
Modern oil is probably better in old air cooled motors, at least they get hot !
Speaking to a friend who's an excellent mechanic, his only comment was not to use fully synthetic engine oil in NEW engines until the rings have a chance to bed in. Excessive oil consumption due to bore becoming glazed was a problem with Vauxhall's for a time.
You're the one who doubted a guys legitimacy in riding trials just because you didn't know 6 litre petrol cans existed! If that already went over your head, I have a feeling adding more would also
I doubted his legitimacy because he obviously can't back his statement with any facts. Quoting 2 stroke ratios for 6 litre containers, seems as pointless as your comments !
FWIW i was told by the Motul rep ages ago that full synthetic in a trials bike doesnt burn away in the silencer because the motor doesnt get hot enough like a moto crosser or race bike so they recommended semi synthetic. Actually they recommended their "scooter oil". I've used semi synthetic ever since with no problem but i am sure many will disagree. Always a horny subject this with so many different "recommendations". As long as the user is happy then thats as good a result as you can hope for.
Thanks otf, so depending where you compete will make a difference, 4 times round a field, or more traditional trials with long climbs that get some heat into the engine.
Silkolene recommended I use semisynthetic in air cooled 70's motor when I asked their advice. Various ratios suggested according to terrain/use but 50:1 for what we do. Works fine with no sign of excessive smoke.
Whats price got to do with? They are made by numerous manufacturers and are a far superior can. You obviously have never used one seeing that you didn't even know they existed. They are rather common with the gardening and landscaping fraternity. Just because it doesn't make sense to you doesn't mean it doesn't make sense.
Have you anything relevant to the topic to add ? ( I think your last line should read "just because it doesn't make sense, it doesn't make sense )
" Fully synthetic is fine for modern motors, not for our 50 year old ones. I think I have tried most, but have settled on Lucas semi sync. At around 32 to 1, that is 187 cc to 6 litres of fuel. I may be right, or wrong, but my motors run just fine at that. "
This statement was posted in another forum, I asked for some evidence, or even a hair brained explanation, nothing !!
I'm not sure the o p actually rides at all, who mixes up 6 litres of 2 stroke ? Is that overfilling a 5L can, or part filling a 10L can ?
@Leigh see lineaway's answer above, what you are describing is classic for a bike sitting unused. Unless the carb was dry when stored, chances are it will need stripped and cleaned.
The plates are probably just stuck together. Point it in a good direction and ride it with the clutch pulled in until it releases. It helps to use the brakes and/or a wheelie or two. Sometimes takes 10-15 minutes.
Good to know. I had a TY175 and OEM Yamaha rim would not keep a tubless Michelin bead on. I assumed all tube type rims were the same.
If your still using a tube with the tubeless tyre, trimming the bead with a Stanley knife to a profile similar to a tube type tyre will also work. Do this at your own risk.
Imperial bolt question...
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Thanks konrad, common here to if you want set screws, but not as bolts.