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Never heard of a tube moving with the tyre stationary ! Every bike I've owned has tyre / tube creep with a spectrum of combinations.

Rule of thumb :- any modifications I make are ok, anything that goes one step further is cheating. ???

Strange, I see you more as ....

Good post, its not really an issue here either, think the O/P is a tragic has been.

Ultimate irony, you completely ignore posts that deviate from "your" vision.

To play devils advocate, many organizers actually think they are right, and there is no one answer. Best way to affect change is to join the club and get out there, lay out appropriate sections and enjoy. Regarding modified bikes, none are as they left the factory, just vary from minor modifications to Draton level which bare little or no resemblance. So what level of modification is acceptable ?

I imagine it will depend on your age, claims history and post code.

??? Great advice for the (severely) vertically challenged ! Probably not a problem for most riders, unless the footrest are actually dragging on the ground !!

Could just be a bit of dirt between float needle and seat, or damaged float.

If you put an air gun over the valve hole you can siphon a surprising amount of water out. (not siphon, but you get the picture)

Something thing like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIALS-UNIVERSAL-FOOT-PEGS-RESTS-TWINSHOCK-PRE-65-FANTIC-BULTACO-MONTESA-WELD-ON/183462194054?hash=item2ab732eb86:g:VswAAMXQTghRTKm4 I would move footrests 50mm down and back at your height, any more and you run into issues with side stand etc. Repacking mid box, cut a hole in the back, make a plate to fit over it, use rivenuts or similar and silicon. Repack with exhaust packing. It will be quiter and run much better. I have never done anything to the back box other than rivet any baffles that come loose.

Some are using machined Fantic heads !

As you know, they are pretty good as standard. Really they just need everything working 100% . Depending how tall you are, moving the footrests down and back is a worthwhile mod. Easy and can be done neatly by adding to originally flat plate, bit of strengthening also required behind. A lot of people go for a bolt on plate, but looks horrendous imo, and makes frame wider.

Please consider supporting bike / fantic dealers, if we don't they may not be there when you need them.

As section swept said, but bear in mind a buckle may be trued out, or even if the rim is slightly damaged if really doesn't matter unless its a show bike.

On 280 looks like M11 by 1.5.

No first hand experience with ty's, but would search for a similar sized copper washer.

See answer on your other post. A good impact wrench is worth its weight in gold.

Remove fork from bike, with cap and spring still in place turn fork upside down. Put light pressure to compress fork. Loosen screw.

Hopefully there will be someone in your area that builds wheels ? Take a sample spoke to them and they should be able to match it.

So, how much would they have to pay you to stop making up your own rules ?

??? You admitted earlier that you made up the rules to your interpretation of how they " should" be.

It's physics, but not as we know it !

Said the keyboard warrior. .....