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b40rt

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Posts posted by b40rt
 
 
  1. 22 minutes ago, arbutus said:

    I agree with Nigel, cutting coils off of a spring increases the spring rate (force required to compress the spring a certain distance) while reducing the initial force to lift the slide off the idle stop. The method I've used in the past was to turn a wooden dowel to just a bit larger than the spring's I.D. Slip the spring over the dowel by turning it in the direction that opens up the coils, then lock it in place by turning the other way. Clamp the dowel in a vise and then use a length of emery cloth pulled between  both hands to remove spring material. This method slowly removes metal and reduces the chance of suddenly overdoing the grinding with an aggressive wheel. You may be surprised how fast this cuts down the wire thickness, too. 

    By the time you've done all that, your hands will be strong enough to overcome the massive force required to compress a standard spring.  ???

    • Like 2
  2. 1 hour ago, oni nou said:

    Looks like that's the cause of your problem .......or I just got caught out bull****ing again[ not alone there], still I have got away with it for a good while now ......not bad for an accountant who has never even ridden a trials bike let alone taken one apart.......Its the ledger ......I just need some kind of outlet for the creative mind you see.

    Bye, see you when you get back ...

    • Thanks 1
  3. 3 hours ago, section swept said:

    You would have thought that the engine designers had already allowed for squish band design, but probably not for the lousy fuel that’s now being served up everywhere. Using extra base gaskets will raise all the ports and possibly have an affect upon performance. Not knocking (sorry about that) anyone’s suggested cures but is it a cure or just moving the problem. Removing material from the combustion chamber will lower compression and affect performance, even though the pinking might have gone. Pinking is really detonation and the cause is usually something causing the fuel and air mix to start burning before the correct ignition point. Potentially petrol/oil mix not as the manufacturer specified could create the fault. Carbon on the piston crown becoming to hot and glowing will cause the fault and air leaking in to the combustion process via crankcase/shaft seals. Exhaust systems leaking together with poor back pressure will allow fuel/air mix to escape leaning the mixture and creating ‘pinking’ or more correctly detonation.?‍?

    Another counter synopsis !!!!

  4. 1 hour ago, daniel perriotte said:

     

    i am still trying to work the site out but in time I will get it . I hope that when I call for help people remember that I was not on the team playing and cheating . All are equal and should be treated accordingly .

     

     

    I don't even know what cricket is ? so don't worry about it being held against you. 

  5. Moving the clip down, raises the needle, allowing more fuel. This will make it run richer at higher revs.

    Does your carb have an air screw, or a petrol screw ?

     More turns out with a petrol screw = richer. 

    More turns out with a air screw = leaner.

  6. 11 hours ago, section swept said:

    Ah but you haven’t allowed for the earths gravitational pull. Then of course air pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi so the higher in altitude you ride the less infinite pressure you will have! A compressed air cylinder would be needed, thus adding weight back so probably weighing more than the conventional braking system.?‍???

    "Less infinite"  sounds like a biblical term ....

  7. 1 hour ago, shazsfan said:

    At 70mls that is correct, we have always ran our Beta 80’s on super unleaded fuel.

    If the carb is unworn and all jetting is standard, check the reeds, if all is good it has to be the oilseal on the crankcase. Do you get the same amount out as you put in at an oil change?

     

     

    In my experience, burning oil will not kill plugs.

 
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