The original MAR was primarily developed for riding slippery stream beds as that is what many of the sections were then. With the lower grip of tyres at that time too little damping would cause the back end to kick sideways and slide off boulders. The stiff damping was right for the time and the tyres but certainly will feel much less bouncy than modern suspension.
Think your analysis is about 99% out !! (@pmk, incorrect)
Bought it as a renovation project for winter so haven’t ridden it in anger , just pottered up the drive twice on it before I stripped it. The clutch was difficult to say the least.
Im just rebuilding her, hence the questions.
Ive oiled the cable, cleaned the mechanism inside the clutch case and cleaned , decontaminated the plates.
Ive been advised to use a light gear oil, 75w!!!!
What do you use?
The clutch basket fingers are quite notched, will I be ok grinding the ridges off, I mean with a Dremmel and gently ?
Routing of clutch cable is important, get a new one unless its very good.
Read about clutch levers, they make a huge difference.
I have been using fully synthetic 5:30 for about 2 years, works for me. Clutch will slip in high gears if you drop it, a compromise I'm willing to accept, more down to clutch springs rather than oil,l as it will also do this with other oils. Might be worth trying the "Beta Clutch Fix"
I have gently filed clutch baskets in the past, it will make an improvement, but try and source a good one.
Seriously, all the info you need is in the swm forum. Things to check - clutch springs, probably to hard. Clutch cable condition and routing. Clutch lever type. Clutch basket probably notched. What oil in gearbox ?
Shocks that are set up for your bike, weight and riding style will let you get the best from you and your bike. Quality re-buildable shocks will last longer, and are generally tuneable / serviceable. Often this makes them cheaper in the long run. Its probably best to speak to an experienced rider with a bike the same as yours, rather than take advice from enthusiastic newbies.
They disqualified her for being under weight but the very next day she was allowed to ride in a world class event with a piece of metal reinforcing bar tie wrapped to the side of the bike !?absolutely farcical
Another day. Bike compiled, why is that "farcical" ? How much of an advantage can a kilo or 2 make ? Not quite in the same league as substance abuse that's all too common in many sports !
I do exercise and stretch my forearms so believe this is a technique issue more than a fitness issue. Age does not help.
Fitness can be "specific" so riding regularly really is the answer if possible. Practicing is harder on the body than riding a trial sometimes, so take rests, and as others have said, consciously relax.
Get good quality electrical solder (not fux cored) Relatively expensive but will probably last you a life time.
Contrary to many (as always) I always use an electrical soldering iron. Plumbers flux. Tin the soldering iron.
Once you have the nipple in the correct place, unravel the 5mm excess you should allow for, bend ends over and use a blunt end punch to spread the strands. (cat's a*se) Put small amount of flux onto Cat's A, heat with (pre-heated) soldering iron, introduce solder and allow to flow through joint, a little. Allow to cool, clean up with grinder or file.
Breaking news here. Bike is found and recovered. Trials is a small community here and because of this they were quickly able to get it back. Great work trials people!
—Biff
Good news, were the police involved, or are they as useless as ours ?
Original fork springs vs. Magicals - a brief review
in Twinshock
Posted · Edited by b40rt
Think your analysis is about 99% out !! (@pmk, incorrect)