I am looking to swap the clutch plates with new and dimpled ones to further reduce the drag. Now I have seen that some offers are different thicknesses and now I am curious. For example, one offer says "1.5mm thick. 0.1mm thicker than original ones.". I see the potential replacing the plates with "these thicker ones" and eliminate the gained less drag via the dimpled plates by putting thicker plates in.
So if you have swapped the original to dimpled plates or have knowledge about the original ones, can you please confirm:
The thickness of the original plates (please also mention model year of your 315)
Which dimpled plates did you use (manufacturer, model-no, thickness) and do they reduce the drag or not
I think this could be very useful for future queries reg this matter
Thanks,
Pascal
I'm curious how reducing the clearance, by putting thicker plates in, can help reduce drag ?
What engines are used, are there any construction rules? How are they able to take part in classic trials.. New to bike trials so don't know rules.
Regards
Any bike can enter, but the classic championship is pre65, twin shocks and air cooled mono - with a and b routes. All other bikes are in separate results.
I'm assuming you got that from Old Knobblies ? I heated and bent mine to suit, plus ground the frame marginally as required. I also tapped the head and fitted a decompressor to ease over tdc. This takes a huge amount of the effort out of starting.
Bad new, good news, bad news! My wheel builder here in the states says he cannot get rims right now due to the supply chain issue and is 3 months back ordered! On a good note, he said they can polish out my rims with minimal damage showing the bad news is $800 dollars for new spokes polish and build! ouch! Hands are tied, so I am shelling out the bucks for now.
Thanks for this input. Other than launching the bike for big steps, I would have thought the clutch was superfluous as you can go right down to zero and pick away again smoothly on the throttle only. In effect, the bike is unstallable. Or am I underestimating the benefits of the clutch?
Dis-engaging the wheel from the motor using the clutch, many assist in regaining traction ?
Carbs are o.k. by me. Its a good idea to use a slintered bronze inline fuel filter between petcock & carb inlet. Also, the 2 upper vent hoses on carbs are just that. Vent hoses. Its a good idea to not have these 2 upper hoses hanging below the engine. Yes, when you tip over they will spill gasoline. but its better to have these hoses above carb. End of hoses turned downwards. 2 small fuel filters used for large gasoline r-c race cars on ends of these 2 vent hoses helps greatly.
Bear in mind some / all this corrosion may be due to your engine acting as a sacrificial anode, so it is equally important to make sure the frame is rust free and painted.
Lots of people don't wear them for trials, but gaining popularity in our Snowflake world. MX ones tend to be a bit cumbersome, so a halfway house could be stretchy pull on MTB ones. Jitsie ones are OK too. Chances are you'll be crashing a fair bit while riding up the learning curve.
I'm assuming you don't bother with boots, helmet, gloves, ball ends on levers, folding footrest etc 😆
In a sport organised by unpaid volunteers, if you want to see changes made, it is you that is going to have to get involved in organising / scrutineering etc.
I'm sure everyone wishes you well and will watch with interest.
New bike time
in General Trials Talk
Posted
SWMBO, the clue is transparent ! SWM bloody obviously .....