This 280 does look a little rough, but like you said you will be learning and will crash so looks are not as important.
just looking at pics of the bike the front tire needs replacing and that front rim is in need of replacing.
Offer lower price to compensate for the need to replace the front rim. Fork seals look good,
A bike of this vintage will most likely look rough, so the big kicker is how does it function.
Start it up and listen to how it sounds, ride it around a bit. check the rear suspension linkage for large amount of play, the dogbones take quite a beating getting hit on obstacles (small design flaw). Listen for weird sounds (squeaks, creaks, metal grinding, etc.).
Look at the lower rear motor mount and look for cracks in the case and the brackets on the frame. If that bolt was loose for a long period of time either of those could break. Frame can be welded and made stronger, broken case is a bad deal.
But if she runs strong, and frame, etc.. are good shape, and the price is right for you. snap it up and have fun.
I love that Pro keeps a going. Probably has some of the most hours of any Pro. Keep making it better zippy.
The Old BAGG is still fun to ride, her sister Big tiTTy ('86 TT350) sure is fun to play with also.
Amazing difference in how that 2003 300 runs now that I have a Keihin carb and Carbontech reeds.
anyway back to the front brake. so in theory if I buy a floaty disc and the spacers for a GasGas (and maybe new bolts) I should be able to make it a floaty.
About $100 for the upgrade, not bad
(I am basically buying a new bike...... $100 at a time HAHAH)
Do you really think anyone has really done this to that 14 year old POS bike that still remembers? Most have died off by now!
I think you would need a disc with bigger holes so the bolts just rattle like the rest of the bike!
A simple " I think you will need to buy a new disc with bigger holes to accommodate the spacers" would have been enough.
If you are going to merely find my posts as an opportunity to either insult my bike or myself I would appreciate it if you would just keep scrolling and find something else to do with your time.
On my 300 the kick starter is moved forward one spline on the shaft.
It can be started with my left foot on the ground and kicking with the right, but it is much easier if my left foot is up on the peg.
So the comment earlier about a tree or something to lean on is fairly accurate, if you got a tree or something to lean against then you can get your feet on the pegs. Once there, bring the kick starter back to where you feel pressure (take up the slack), from there kick firmly and smoothly with some authority.
I think the floating front disc allows for the caliper pistons to move better at the disc and give better braking and feedback.
My theory is:
fixed disc does not move so if there is something amiss with the pistons they will push on one side of the disc before the other. Then you must wait for the pistons on the other side to move towards the disc to engage.
but with a floating disc the disc will move with the first pistons and "meet" the other set of pistons resulting in positive engagement sooner.
I may not know anything or this may be correct, I am not sure. but I do notice a difference between my fixed disc GasGas and the floating disc Sherco I had prior. it's not a huge difference, but I do notice it.
My clutch was slipping quite badly and we swapped it out while riding at TTC.
I ran into a similar issue.
We measured the pack and it was pretty close to center of the spec.
Reassembled and the finger height was off.............. a lot.
So take apart, and adjust with different thickness steel plates, check the finger height.
Take apart and adjust with some old friction plates with some new friction plates, check finger height.
Basically did this a bunch of times until the finger height was correct. Never checked the pack thickness after the first time. Assembled into bike and all works like it should. Good lever pull and no more slipping clutch.
Factor in tolerances in manufacturing and normal use wear on the clutch basket and that is why the clutch pack thickness can be correct but the finger height is off. and we are talking mm here, don't take much to move it out/in a mm or two.
You'll always get the odd rubbish decision be it stop or non stop in the long run they'll balance out' never heard anyone complaining about not getting a 5 for a stop.
I imagine Bou will get the benefit of the doubt pretty often ,however I suppose all those years ago when he wasn't world champ he got plenty dodgy 5s just like any other upcoming rider.
So your argument is that "he paid his dues as an upcoming rider and now deserves special treatment"?
BS. Rules should be applied fairly and consistently to all competitors regardless of time in the sport, notoriety, season standings etc...
1 hour ago, metisse said:
The reason the observing isn t done correctly is in that most clubs cannot afford to be picky on who picks up the pencil. I tend to agree that non stop should be in escence that, but that fraction of a moment pause should be allowed. This without doubt raises the question on how long... and that is down to opinion. I asked several people yesterday who's other halfs have in the past helped and out of the five I asked, to a man they told me these people had no interest anymore, one because of the aggro, two they simply couldn't keep up with the rules. If people want to ride stop and want to hop about front and back, then they need to be able to do it. If after a couple of hops the foot goes down and the bike is stopped methinks it should be five.. This is just my view right or wrong.
Agree,
Here is what I posted on the Trial GP video thread.
Personal opinion, Trials is about control and skill.
Choosing a line and riding it non stop requires control of the motorcycle and skill
Being able to stop and balance requires control of the motorcycle and skill
Both are about control and skill, just different sets.
BUT stopping with a foot down shows a lack of skill and requires little to no control because the bike's own kickstand can do that without you. So, I prefer when the rules are set that stop + foot down = 5. With that rule at club level both styles of riding can be done in the same sections. There is no need to make the sections increasingly harder, merely not allowing foot down while stopping increases the difficulty.
Not exactly sure if that same rule would have the same impact at the world round level.
I'm a little disappointed I didn't get a video or at least a picture of you pulling your cooler full of beer around on your trials bike like a trailer.
well, full is a relative word. I had to have ice in there as well.
From every trial I've been to since we tried stop = 1 trials is stop allowed.
Personal opinion, Trials is about control and skill.
Choosing a line and riding it non stop requires control of the motorcycle and skill
Being able to stop and balance requires control of the motorcycle and skill
Both are about control and skill, just different sets.
BUT stopping with a foot down shows a lack of skill and requires little to no control because the bike's own kickstand can do that without you. So, I prefer when the rules are set that stop + foot down = 5. With that rule at club level both styles of riding can be done in the same sections. There is no need to make the sections increasingly harder, merely not allowing foot down while stopping increases the difficulty.
Not exactly sure if that same rule would have the same impact at the world round level.
But back to my comment about trials at WTC level.
8 hours ago, zippy said:
From all the videos I have seen, the WTC is still 'stop allowed'.
Point I was trying to make is that if the rules are stop = 5 then they should be observing as such and sections should be set up for it. The current way it is done is a farce, and shows trials in a bad light.
Sorry, hijacked thread, went on a rant. Back to the video. Like I said before, I enjoyed it but it needs more content, there were 15 sections I think and the video only covered a fraction. So much more to see and share. But if they have a limited budget that would make it difficult to get more in the video.
Regular trials rules come from the FIM WTC rules ,they were adopted by the ACU for use in the British Trials Championships, national and club trials after much discussion between Thierry Michaud representing the FIM and British and European importers on how to make trials more appealing to newcomers and therefore sell more new bikes; after they had concluded that stop allowed techniques were ruining the sport and making it elitist.
The Catalans/Spanish were clever as they kept their Championship rules 'stop allowed' so they get to keep their hand in ; just in case the WTC reverts back to stop allowed.
From all the videos I have seen, the WTC is still 'stop allowed'.
I liked it rob warner showed some enthusiasm and knowledge with his commentary which would help anybody understand why we like trials.
I like the fact that he addressed what everyone watching was probably wondering about.
"Trials is no stop, but it is a judged sport, so the riders do get away with pauses. But not sliding back down rock ledges" (or something like that, maybe not exact quote)
For the sake of FIM reclaiming some dignity if for nothing else go back to stop allowed. This "Pause allowed" but call it no stop is just ridiculous.
Yes good....but now you just made him think twice about going out on his own ...his bikes going to be sat in his garage for the next 2 years before he sells it because of lack of use..... Jordi Tarres practised alone when he was young and so did Steve Saunders and many other top class riders.
Do not let them put you off txtconnor; practising on your own is fine I've always done it; just be sensible in what you choose to do ......Any practise is better than no practise.
I practice on my own quite regularly, never said I took my own advice.
and yes, "any practice is good practice" is a true statement.
I wasn't trying to come off that you should have someone with you EVERY time you go ride, but more like when trying the big scary stuff.
There is much benefit to just going out and riding to get away, work on the basics (basics is a relative term to your skill level, my basics and Toni Bou's basics are very different)
OH HELL, just get out, throw a leg over the bike and go have some fun. We all recognize there is an acceptable level of danger, we accept it when we drive cars/trucks to get to anywhere we want to go. At least with trials it's fun.
You will get more practise time that's worthwhile on your own as you will be able to concentrate without all the usual banter going on.
for me it is the usual banter that makes me practice and try things to better myself.
Here is an example
@biffsgasgas "Hey you can splatter that 6 foot rock"
Me: "Oh no way, that is scary"
biffsgasgas: "Don't be a pansy"
Me: "ok" many revs and a bad thud and then "uuuunnnnnnggggghhhh"
biffsgasgas: "You were so close, maybe a little more throttle next time"
see, very helpful
but I do believe if you are trying anything new, above your current skill level or just plain makes you nervous, you need to have others with you when you ride.
They provide moral support, prodding, and can get you medical help if needed (and after the laughter dies down)
I shall go now................................................
Hello All, Looking to Get into the sport
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
I have a 2003 pro 300, i love my bike.
This 280 does look a little rough, but like you said you will be learning and will crash so looks are not as important.
just looking at pics of the bike the front tire needs replacing and that front rim is in need of replacing.
Offer lower price to compensate for the need to replace the front rim. Fork seals look good,
A bike of this vintage will most likely look rough, so the big kicker is how does it function.
Start it up and listen to how it sounds, ride it around a bit. check the rear suspension linkage for large amount of play, the dogbones take quite a beating getting hit on obstacles (small design flaw). Listen for weird sounds (squeaks, creaks, metal grinding, etc.).
Look at the lower rear motor mount and look for cracks in the case and the brackets on the frame. If that bolt was loose for a long period of time either of those could break. Frame can be welded and made stronger, broken case is a bad deal.
But if she runs strong, and frame, etc.. are good shape, and the price is right for you. snap it up and have fun.
Just my 2 cents.