thanks, I know there is one diagnostic cable but besides this one, I got 2 free left - 1 single wire and second dual wire plug. Both near the regulator.
I popped the fuel tank off and poked around a bit. I have not owned this bike long or did too much maintenance on it due to multiple injuries. (yes I am making excuses and whining)
I did not see any unconnected plugs under the gas tank. There is quite the mess of wires under there.
I must have been thinking about the 2003 when I mentioned two plugs not connected.
My 2015 was produced prior to KTM buying GasGas, the 2022's are made after KTM bought GasGas. So there is a possibility of differences in wiring etc.
Yes, you are right, that's the cover plate for key lock in triple clamp thanks
Side stand is working now properly, need to replace also on ebolt provider cause longer spring was rubbing on.
BTW looks like you have same bike, do you remember were there any free hanging wires/plugs under the tank. near the regulator?
I am almost done with setup and ready to fire it up but not sure about two plugs which are not connected anywhere.
You're welcome.
I do have a 2015 GasGas 300 Race, the photo I pulled off the interwebs is of a 2022.
But they should be very very similar. I purchased mine used, so it was all set up for competition, none of those extra blinkers etc.
I will try to remember to look under the tank tomorrow, if I remember correctly there are 2 plugs that are not connected to anything. I will try to confirm.
no, this plate came along in one bag with spring and bolt for side stand.
Just take a second look at the lower triple clamp, throttle side. The 3 parts may have been packaged together for convenience, not necessarily for install location.
I have one on my 2015, my previous 2003 had the hole in the clamp and a hole for the bolt but the plate was not installed.
Thanks, looks like in the drawing but cannot identify that smal steel plate with one hole, it was in the package along with spring and the bolt
pic below, what is it for?
Take a look at the bottom triple clamp. there may be a locking mechanism for locking the forks in place. A type of theft deterrent. I think that plate replaces the locking mechanism.
Personal preference is to cover the clutch always 100%
I cover the front brake almost always, similar to Faussy if I am hitting a larger obstacle or hill that requires a bit more throttle and GO!!!! I will take my finger off the front brake.
As fprintf states, eventually the movements to get fingers back on front brake get to be almost automatic.
The forum was sold to a company that has a reputation for destroying the user experience of forums, in order to get more ad revenue. Nothing has happened yet, some think we have a year, other think it will be less than a month.
I was unaware of the sale.
but to be fair there is much I am unaware of in life.
Clean the bike???? oh no no no. every time I clean the bike something is broken.
No clean the bike = nothing broken.
I transport my bike(s) either in the bed of a pickup or on a trailer. So I never really thought about a need to clean the bike before transport, but I can see in certain cases where it would be a concern.
Have you considered a hitch mounted carrier? (assuming your vehicle will accept one)
I believe it is a designed "weep hole" to indicate failing water pump seal(s) as stated by b40rt and tshock250
If I remember correctly that is a 2 seal design, a seal for the coolant side and a seal for the oil side with a gap between. The weep hole is situated in the gap between the seals.
Benefit is you can tell which seal is bad by what is leaking out of the weep hole. but I would suggest changing both seals, because they have both been in there the same length of time with same use etc..
While waiting for the new top end I dug around a bit more in the bottom end. The reed cage is still intact with 4 screws holding in the reeds. I tried to clean the crankcase through the crank opening with a microfiber cloth and long screwdriver, there were some tiny metal shavings but nothing significant. I used some compressed air to try to uncover any particles but nothing could be detected.
The wristpins were there and intact. Perhaps it was a piece of broken piston ring.
Does anyone know of instructions or a video on disassembling the bottom end? I'm unsure of the process or what tools I'd need to replace crank bearings & seals. Might be better left to professionals
Looking forward to getting the new top end on there.
this video shows the new style crank bearing (w/ seals) and how to retro fit to older Pro engines.
You should be able to purchase a matched cylinder / piston set. with a return of your cylinder for a "core".
easier than finding a place to replate etc.
I recommend new crank bearings and seals if you feel vertical play. (you are halfway torn down anyway) Pro crank bearings are lubricated with transmission oil, so be sure the hole in the races match the hole in the case.
All is right with the world again! Get rid of the linkage and attached shifter to Tran shaft and it seems like problem is gone. Thanks for all the helpful suggestions and opinions from you all!
I just went out to the shed and checked and it will slip down even when going from say 4th to 3rd. So to me that seems to give evidence that it’s not internal and could just be the linkage?
Remove linkage and attach shifter direct to shift shaft, first,
Engine Flush
in Gas Gas
Posted
Fill gear box with the same transmission fluid that you normally use.
Run the bike, get everything warmed up, drain the gearbox right away, refill.
repeat until the cloudiness (milkyness) is gone.