First the opinion, I used to own a tLR200 Reflex. Fun bike, I had the gear shift lever attached direct to the shift shaft. It was mounted vertically, forward for down shift, backward to upshift. This kept it up out of the way and mostly protected, and reduced possible accidental shifts.
Question: does the shift lever need moved back to horizontal with every downshift or just when shifting into first?
Information,
Parts schematics are available on most online parts suppliers for the major Japanese manufacturers.
I suspect you have an issue with the shift shaft and return mechanism. Possible 1 "side" of the return spring (#12) is broken off.
This will be located under the clutch cover. front of bike in picture would be on the left.
The center bolt for holding the clutch basket on is not exactly necessary to have in there, you can leave the bolt and washer out.
I am running mine without it. If the basket does move outward it will move a minimal amount before the clutch plunger touches the fingers. which will keep it from moving any farther out.
but I am afraid you may need to split the cases. there may be an issue internal of the transmission
No clue what that piece is that fell out when you took the cover off.
The Hell Team has much Tech support information.
click on "Parts Books" and then click on the year of your bike, and viola!! parts diagrams. I could not find anything that would be under the clutch cover that looked like that piece.
I'm pretty sure it goes between the clutch cover and the kickstart shaft. So you install the clutch cover, then this tapered washer then the kickstart itself. Larger end butts up against kickstart
I believe you are correct.
12 hours ago, Creepytheclutchmaster said:
Best idea would be to look on a gas gas spare parts schimatic for your bike. it will be clearer to exactly whare and which way round it goes.
The allen bolt, to the top right of the top hat, in the photo has a cammed adjuster, used for fine tuning gear selection. I'm sorry, but I can't remember which way to turn it for the different gear selection problems. Maybe someone else can provide info on this.
Investigate the locked up kickstart first, check the top hat for gear change. Top Hat has a break away bar in it to protect the other bits of the shifting mechanism. (photos below)
Starting procedure: have bike on a stand/leaning on something. get on the pegs, set foot on kickstart, slowly lower kickstart until slack is taken up and kickstart engages. at this point kick downwards with smooth authoritative force.
DO NOT "stab" at the kickstart this could cause the quadrant and idle gears to chip. if a piece gets lodged between the two gears, it could (most often does) push the two gears apart placing stress on the clutch cover and breaking the clutch cover at the kickstart shaft.
Top Hat highlighted; notice the cross bar. If the bar is broken it will be rotated inside the bore of the top hat. the ends of the bar will remain in place in the wall of the top hat.
Google searched this photo, source says Trials Central - Added text - Clutch basket has been removed - there should be a hollow allen head bolt in the center of the clutch basket. 4mm I think, not positive
It could be the central rubber sealing strip leaking, losing air & causing tyre to come off rim ?? . Its happened to me. Blow up tyre hard & use soapy water & paintbrush to check for leaks through the spoke holes. Other option is to immerse wheel in a big enough container full of water like you do when checking a tube. If rubber seal shot, it will require replacing. Apico do them. Remove old one & thoroughly remove old sealant (usually Silicon). Ensure spokes all tight & apply a blob of new silicon over each spoke head to seal. Allow to go off.
Trial fit new seal ring. (practice) Then run 2 beads of silicon around rim inner well . Now fit rubber seal, previous practice session should have paid off. Finally run another 2 beads of silicon around edge of seal ring. I use Geocell black silicon from Screwfix.
Don't use automotive Sikaflex or Tiger seal, as its very difficult to remove & you might need to rebuild your wheel .
Works for me.
OP has a 2015. that should have a rear rim with all external spokes. (true tubeless type rim)
My 2003 had the rubber seal in the center channel of rim, I replaced it once with a rim band that had the valve stem built in.. Used zero sealants of any kind. Cleaned rim, used a little bit of soapy water when fitting rim band, made sure the rim band fit the channel properly fully under the ridge. Lasted 6 or 7 years until I sold the bike.
My 2003 Pro had the kickstart hit the peg, and my current 2015 Pro kickstart hits the peg.
Basically the peg is used as a stop instead of some part of the frame, some bikes have a metal stop on the frame that the kickstart hits (TLR200 Reflex I think had one)
It's a design of the GasGas Pro engine. Internally there is "stop" for the kickstart as well. Pro engine has been mostly the same design with upgrades to internal components that retro-fit from 2003 - 2015, I am not sure about retro-compatibility with 2017 -2021 models
My advice: (yeah like anyone listens to me) ride it, enjoy it, crash it, pick it up, repeat.
starting procedure, stand on pegs (lean bike against tree, etc; bike on stand; balance on pegs), slowly bring kicker to where it engages, kick firmly and smoothly, DO NOT STAB AT IT - for some owners that has caused problems with breaking the clutch cover.
most often starts 1st kick, sometimes 2nd kick. same way for the 2003 I had as well as the current 2015.
zippy, it is indeed the selector shaft spring sorry was the spring. I'm hoping the circlip groove isn't damaged on the end of the shaft as the circlip had come off.
Does anyone know if the shaft can be simply pulled out to replace it's a 2014 factory replica with the bolt and washer bearing retainer on the end of the shaft.
Great news about the hole being ok.(maybe could have been finished better at the casting stage)
Does the alloy kickstart positioning bush go on tapered edge downwards?
that spring has definitely sprung.
I am not sure if the shaft on a 14 can be pulled without splitting the cases. My 2003 required splitting the case because of the rollers attached to the shaft being inside the shift drum.
I am not sure what the kickstart positioning bush is, do you have a photo?
the four mm allen bolt holding the basket on is very tight is it normal thread. I even bought a fresh allen key bit to not strip it.
Thanks
Are you are referring to the single allen bolt in the center of the clutch basket?
If memory serves me, the head is about half the thickness of a standard allen bolt, but the threads I believe are standard right hand thread.
The bolt is also hollow to allow oil to pass through
Some use a thread locker of some sort on the bolt. (I don't believe thread locker to be necessary, and I know a couple people that just leave that bolt out)
That is a good way to break a basket that might be hard to replace. Being spring loaded they only need to be snugged up and just barely a small bit more.
6 IN/LB is just snugged up and just barely a small bit more.
If that model has the standard 6 springs with the small bolt through the center of the spring, If I remember correctly the torque setting is actually quite low.
but I don't remember an exact number.
I did find for a Sherco, that the torque for the clutch spring screws is 0.7Nm (0.516 FT/LB or 6.2 IN/LB)
Can you get a clamp of some sort in there. Maybe a small version of this. one side on the bolt threaded area the other side on the frame next to the bolt hole.
Push the bolt back toward the shock, eventually having enough bolt shank showing to grab with pliers. this is of course assuming you can get the nut off or cut off the nut.
Honda TLR Gear shifter problem
in Honda
Posted
Some information and some opinion.
First the opinion, I used to own a tLR200 Reflex. Fun bike, I had the gear shift lever attached direct to the shift shaft. It was mounted vertically, forward for down shift, backward to upshift. This kept it up out of the way and mostly protected, and reduced possible accidental shifts.
Question: does the shift lever need moved back to horizontal with every downshift or just when shifting into first?
Information,
Parts schematics are available on most online parts suppliers for the major Japanese manufacturers.
I suspect you have an issue with the shift shaft and return mechanism. Possible 1 "side" of the return spring (#12) is broken off.
This will be located under the clutch cover. front of bike in picture would be on the left.
Hope you find the issue