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zippy

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Posts posted by zippy
 
 
  1. It's a nice update for the Scorpa brand, but it seems like a "Sherco Clone"

    Scorpa has in the past been known as a good solid clubman bike that performs well and takes a beating.

    As we all know the "newer" bikes that are lighter and more performance oriented have a need for more upkeep. Will this update lose some of the robustness that the clubman riders want?

    Is the 280 (272cc) the only motor option available?

    And what the hell does the "Twenty" refer too? anything in particular or just a name they pulled out of a hat?

    But even after typing that, It does look the business as they say. any ideas on price?

  2. About 9 or 10 months for this last time. I don't remember how long the time before that but at least 6 months. (Same elbow). It's kinda weird because for a long time it just hurt, and then only hurt when picking something up etc... then one day I realized "hey, my elbow feels almost normal again"

  3. This may or may not help

    post #5 has pics look in the space between the foot peg and the rear brake pedal, there is a black plate attached to the frame. The side facing out is smooth, and you will notice the 2 weld marks where the bolts go through the holes in the frame, I can't remember if the plate is just curved upwards to catch the kickstarter or the side of the plate facing inwards toward motor has a tab that sticks out to catch the tab on the kickstart lever.

    http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/37450-tl-125-kickstart-options/

    Sorry couldn't find anything else.

  4. "Do I need the power of a (insert siz bike here)?" is a bit of a loaded question. According to many we club level riders don't need anymore power than what an 80cc or 125cc engine would provide (but that would be no fun).

    Main question is do you like the way the bike rides/reacts etc..?

    If you like everything else about the bike but starting is too much hassle then maybe the base gasket option is a worthwhile option.

    On edit: I have no experience with Ossa so my opinion may be crap. :D

  5. Well, Phooey! :blush:

    Now, I'm not sure I can totally commit to this Tip fo The Day! It works very well, and easily shortened the amount of tiime it takes to change my bike's oil. But my wife found out about this, and now has gleefully made plans for me & "My Time"!!!! :shutup:

    Since It decreased my "Barn Time with My Bike", she feels that I now have more "free" time to mow the grass, help with laundry, paint the house, & other such chores I've dodged for years!!

    As such, I've become almost "domesticated"...... :crying: No more hours spent in the barn, pumping the clutch lever on my Gas Gas :wub: while pretending to do balance practice with the stand down, drinking the beer she didn't know I had, while smoking cigars and listening to classic rock...... My life is ruined now..... If you post any more Tips Mike, I may never have time to work on my bike again! :stupid:

    Jimmie

    Jimmie you need to perfect the guy response of "That guy knows nothing, My method is the best method out there here are the reasons why it can't be done that way" And then list off a bunch of BS that sounds technical.

    The main reason this will shorten the life of the gearbox is that the residual glue from the tape left on the oil plug will react with the oil in the gearbox causing nasty bits of acids to form and eat away at the gears. This will weaken the gears and they will fail, IE broken teeth, cracked gears etc.. Now dear wifey you won't want me to have to buy a new set of gears for the transmission would you?

    Secondly If bits of the tape get into the gearbox this would be even more catastrophic, in the form of even more glue in the gearbox to react with and that piece of tape could get stuck between the gears. The tolerance between the gears is so tight that the piece of tape will cause the two gears to push apart enough to destroy the bearings for the shaft that the gears are on. That is why the oil plug is magnetic so that any metal bits will immediately go to the magnet instead of between the gears. The tape is not magnetic and will just float around the gearbox.

    Sling some BS and sound knowledgable.................works for people I work with....

  6. GasGas 280's will rev up rather quickly and LAUNCH!. Good bikes very capable but just keep that in mind until you get used to it. Most often with a new rider you won't even get the revs up to that range unless you "Whiskey Throttle" it. (accidental wide open throttle) and no mattter what size bike you have that is bad situation.

    But my opinion is that the 280 (270cc) bikes are a good all around bike for most riders that have prior off road experience. And will serve you well for years as you learn. I rode a 2000 Sherco 2.9 that I got used for about 7 years before moving on to a GasGas 300. The Sherco was still capable but I just like the GasGas better.

    But as with ANY bike purchase ride it first!! if possible and the current owner will allow it, ride it in a section type setting. Totally different experience riding through a section than just around the car park or trail. Also sometimes what is available in the area has a hand in deciding what you buy..............if only 250cc are for sale it is a bit tough to buy a 270cc

    Well now that everything is clear as mud, Welcome to the sport and the site with many opinions.

  7. First off, you have the correct attitude of "I know how to ride a motorcycle in "insert motorcycle discipline here" but trials is a different animal and I will need to learn that"

    It is really hard to swallow the pride that most of us motorcyclists have when changing disciplines. (I have only ridden trials, if I took up MX there would be SO much to learn) But once you get past that and start riding and learning, then much fun will be had.

    OK my opinion on 2 stroke trials bike engine size, based on the need for low end torque for the sport.

    125cc = no low end torque, rev the hell out of it to move 4 inches, MUST use proper technique to do anything.

    200cc = moves better than a 125 still needs reved up and proper technique

    250cc = starting to get some usable low end torque, need to rev up a bit but not too much, proper technique is helpful.

    270cc = good amount of low end torque, decent rev range but if reved up a bit too much could get away from you

    (Note: Sherco 2.9 = 270cc GasGas 280 = 270cc gotta love marketing)

    290cc = As far as I know Beta Evo was the only one to have an actual 290cc bike and only for a couple years, was supposed to be a middle ground between the 270 and the 300. (they ditched it in favor of a 300cc)

    300cc = Shed loads of low end torque, revs up great and will rip your arms off if you are not prepared.

    now of course proper technique is the key to a good days ride, but in some cases with the larger bore bikes a bit of throttle and more grunt will counteract some poor technique and still get you up the obstacle. I don't have experience with modern 4 stroke machines so can't give an opinion on those.

  8. LOL, i really want to find that monty python clip about arguing, that would fit here. anyway mopwepa the topic got everyone talking and got rid if some boredom, lol. start another topic so we can have some more fun. how about which side of the bike is the proper side for a kick starter??????????????????

    rob

    Neither side is proper for the kickstarter. just need a button on the handlebars and vrooom.....

  9. Montesa/Honda are pretty robust,you'll notice that a 2nd hand one will cost about twice as much as a similar aged gas gas/beta etc.

    All the bikes are fine but you must maintain them properly and ride them as a trials bike.

    Go to trial ,see what they're all riding and talk to the riders.

    yep, all brands have their quirks or things to keep an eye on. I think the biggest two things to remember is like stated above "ride it like a trials bike" and periodically check all the nuts and bolts for tightness............

  10. My opinion:

    smaller front sprocket = more direct placement of torque to the rear wheel.

    This makes every gear "hit" harder at the rear wheel

    That is why in muddy sections you select a higher gear to reduce rear wheel spin.

    The 2000 Sherco I used to have, when I got it felt like the gears were a half a selection off, had a "useable" first gear and second was a hillside gear and third was almost unusable. So I went with a smaller front sprocket (needed to use a half link though) This made first a tractor gear that was good for tight flat land sections with many turns, second was good for a bit more open sections and some hills and third was great for the bigger and longer hillclimbs. etc. and with Sherco's 4th and 5th are always trail gears.

 
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