zippy

according to this site yes you are on the money http://www.onlineconversion.com/automotive_gasoilmixture.htm

"I have ridden (insert any motorcycle sport other than trials here) for the past 15 yrs and I am a BAD ASS! I can ride this slow, wimpy trials stuff!" 2 weeks later.........."Darn 12 yr old kids keep beating me and my bike is broke....again. I am too good for this sport. I am going back to (insert other motorcycle sport here) where real riders ride!" Yep heard that before.

Just skip right to number 10. 10. ride away like a champ!

Maybe it originally was called a "Jab Zap" because you "Jab" the front tire into the obstacle and then "Zap" over it???? and it just morphed into Jap Zap because it rhymes?

Welcome, GasGas are great bikes...........but the info from factory seems a bit ......... off sometimes.

anywhere in the upper half of the sight glass should be ok. If you want to be sure there is still enough in there, then have the level just under the top of the sight glass. Ya know just enough down so you can see the top of the oil. Setting level (ish) on both tires

Well, I guessed on the 550ml and was wrong. I am glad it was corrected and somebody didn't use my recommendation and end up with a shredded gearbox from not enough oil. I have been putting 400ml in my 2003. But I did find out that if the bike is on the rear tire and vertical there is a definite possibility of the gearbox oil dribbling out a bit (25ml or so)

I think the 550ml of oil is for the pre-pro engines and the pro- engines most are running somewhere around the 350ml-400ml amounts. A quick easy way to decide if you have enough is fill with 350ml and then have the bike on the tires on level ground and make sure that the oil level is at least halfway up the sight glass. if it is then good, but if not add a bit more until you are happy with the level, and then remember that amount for future oil changes.

yea I don't like downhill logs either. I can go up a rather large log on an uphill or flat but put a log 1/4 of that size on a downhill and I freak out. I am getting a bit better. Slow down as much as possible, Keep your butt as far back over the rear fender as possible. depending on log size you may need to give just a hint of a blip of throttle to get the front tire to come on top of the log, if smallish log then you just roll over it and hit the brakes on the other side, if largish log and the hillside conditions make it possible you may be able to let the rear tire hit the log while leaning back and then the skid plate will rest on the log, (this usually works best if the log is at the top of the hill, but some hills work for doing this in the middle of the hill) then you can collect yourself, breathe again and just roll off the other side with the brakes on. Be sure to have a friend with you that has a video camera to catch the action on video! I mean have a friend there for support and assistance.

imaginary lines.................that way you never go out of bounds when practicing!

If I remember the story correctly there was much happening and it involved a 2 story "2-holer" outhouse. The second story outhouse user was the "Splatter" and the first story outhouse user was the "Splattee"! The Splattee threatened to destroy the Splatter's Zamboni, so the Splatter didn't do it again.

Cleaned my air filter, air box, and carb. Wowzers those things can get dirty.

That really sucks, hope it gets returned.

Not sure if this is actual or just my personal view . but it seems that the GasGas of any cc has more low end grunt than any brand of the same cc size.

Any hydraulic clutch is lighter than a cable clutch. OK so this means you train on a cable clutch like a nice stiff TLR200 Reflex that has had zero mods done to it. OR use a lighter spring for your clutch. I have found using a "spring hand exerciser helped build up my hands/forearms. I also take a potassium pill every day to keep my potassium level up to help combat "arm pump"

How long before KTM comes out with a trials bike? They make highly competitive off road/enduro bikes, why not a trials bike?

Way cool! The top of that trailer is very very small!! Also shows how much clutch work goes into hopping on rear wheel.

I shall translate: "Sawtooth, this is a perfect excuse to have a friend come over and hang out in the garage/shed and share a few and do some "bench racing" and women complaining. And maybe even get the fork seals changed while you're at it." Yep we all start as beginners, best way to learn is to do it. But also know when it is time to stop and ask for assistance so as to not mess things up. Good luck, take your time, You have already done fork seals before so you may just need a few reminders of what you're doing.

Are they all in correct condition??

Canada280i was great to meet you as well. I am glad you had a good time. Hope to see you all at future MOTA events. And yes Sandbagger and Mrs. Sandbagger are some of the most friendly people I have met! I had a couple of the hot dogs but skipped the pie...................I had a cupcake instead! HUGE thanks to Mike and Ron and all the others that pitched in to help out! I had a great time!

I usually replace the rear tire every 2 years. ride one season then flip the tire then ride a season and then replace. I do notice a bit of a difference in traction towards the end of the season when the leading edge of the knobs is rounded. (but too cheap to replace every year) Front tire I replace it about every 3-4 yrs, usually when the front end starts washing/sliding out on turns. I have known some riders to replace their front tire after about 6 yrs, but don't neglect the front tire. It makes a big difference in turning if the front has traction.

Y'all got one of those trials bikes with an automatic pilot? Only thing that would help me

Bloody Hell!! nice climb. I would have to rev a 125cc up that high just to move forward 3 inches on flat ground. It does appear that there is a point where he was going to launch but for some reason held off for a second or two and then went vrrroooooom!

Welcome to the wonderful and weird world of trials! 1. Good bike to start on and at least you got that first crash out of the way quickly! 2. Have fun with your son and cherish every ride you have together. (at 40 yrs old I still remember many of the rides I had with my dad when I was a kid) 3. This is a good attitude to have and in no time you should be learning quite a bit and progressing your skills quickly 4. Not sure how much "useful" stuff you will learn from us on this forum............ Zippy

not sure exactly what material your forks are constructed of but I will assume it to be aluminum. Not sure if yours is broke where the clamp would "flex" or where the bolt passes through. but I will share my experiences. On a Sherco I once owned it had a broken off bolt for the pinch clamp. I was unable to remove the broken bolt. So off to the great welder guy that I found. I had to completely dismantle the fork and only take the lower fork tube to him. He then cut a channel where the bolt was and lifted out the material/bolt. Then he filled it in with weld, this also welded the "split" part of the clamp. He drilled a new hole and tapped the hole back to the original sizes. The "split" was recut and the bore for the axle to pass through was smoothed out. I had zero problems after the repair, the repair held with regular torque etc.. of course there was some heat discoloring. I also had him repair my top and bottom fork clamps on the same bike. Where the bolt passed through the clamp portion had broken off. He removed the broken piece and placed a correct size rod of brass (I think) into the threaded hole so the threads would not be affected, and basically rebuilt the end of the clamp for the bolt to pass through using only weld. Then he had to recut the split, smooth out the bore for the forks and bore the countersink for the bolt. This repair (both times) held up beautifully after it was done. It would hold normal torque when clamping the forks and the forks never slipped. So depending on how odd/technical the repair, I would say it probably can be fixed.