zippy

Cope, Because it is a torquey pig I don't need more than half throttle. That is what I like about it. I prefer to ride in the lower rev range...... but if I need it there is more available!

Welcome, that site has a slew of conversions. poke around and check it out. and HAVE SOME FUN on that Fantic!!!

My opinion on what bike to choose. You have some experience on motorcycles, so you know where the controls are. But you may also understand about how power is delivered to the rear wheel. Bike choice for trials in my opinion depends more on your style of riding than on engine size. My opinion on "modern" trials machines. 125CC = Rev the HELL out of it and use PROPER technique and you will move forward a few inches. 200CC = Have not had any experience with these I will just "assume" it to be a mid ground of the 125 and 250CC 250CC = A little bit of low end torque, but still need to rev it a bit to do stuff 270CC-280CC = Decent amount of low end torque don't need a whole lot of throttle to get over most beginner/Intermediate obstacles, still need to rev it up to "bigger" stuff 300CC = Tons of low end torque, it will GO over anything beginner/intermediate with minimal throttle input. Just a little more throttle and you will make it over "bigger" stuff. If you really twist the throttle it will RIP your arms off and launch itself in the air. And each manufacturer's different sized motors react a little bit different in regards to how they rev up, how hard/fast power hits etc.. Also I think the different frame geometry of different manufacturers gives a different "feel" of how the motor reacts. And like others have said it is relatively easy to tame down the bigger bore bikes. So Bottom line.......... try as many different sizes and brands you can and buy the one that "fits" you. (If you can't tell I am a big fan of the 300CC GasGas, but it is a ton of motor that may get away from a noobie real quick)

According the manual 65-70 Nm = 48 - 51.5 FT LB http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

MMMMMMMM pie!

The unfortunate by product of what happens at the WTC level is the rule changes filter down to the events we ride on Sunday. Example in USA: FIM goes No-Stop NATC wants to stay in line with FIM and also goes No-Stop "Local" organizations want their riders to be prepared to ride the national series, so they also adopt No-Stop to stay in line with NATC. I don't agree with this but this is the way it seems to work. The problem is small percentage of "Local" riders (let's say 10%) will actually ride the NATC nationals. and a small percentage of those riders will ride the WTC (for USA that's like 1 or 2 riders......ever) So basically Trials organizations are catering their rules to only a few of the competitors and not the majority of the riders, I think that may be very instrumental in why trials is having problems. Just my Opinions

Neutral???? That gear don't help in the sections! I rarely need neutral, but when I do I usually have the engine off and use my hand to find it.

Just for those cases make sure you have a magnet in your tool box and some duct/electrical (whatever the popular European type of ) tape. and just tape the magnet on and viola!!! problem solved

Nope, just cut the clutch side down the same amount and sell the bike with awesome, trick "narrow" bars for those tight events.

My dad would do Parades on his TLR200 Reflex. (Nose wheelies or Endos, a teeter totter. wheelies, ride over a car etc....) and he fashioned a kill switch with a set of points and non-conductive something or other attached with a wrist strap. Worked every time. He also got an electric motor (Reflex had battery) and hooked it into the kill switch circuit. this motor would then pull on the rear brake rod and engage the rear brake as well. Was a pretty cool set up. So lanyard type "Dead man switch" "kill switch": maybe a good idea for all levels of competition............... but the way I ride I would rather have it attached to my chest. I use my hands to make dabs on trees too often.

Maybe Bou should ride with the philosophy one of our local riders has "ride a gear higher with MORE throttle". No stalling Obviously there is some confusion with the Observers. Notice the observer waving a closed fist and looking to see if Bou puts a foot down, that observer obviously believes that Bou is still clean while the observer with the card shows a 5 and has to explain to the other observer why Bou has a 5. No stop rule is stupid at this level of competition and even worse when observers are unsure of how the rule is to be marked. I watched other vids where the rider stopped but was not given a 5 for it. But the observers can't see everything everywhere but still this rule makes it hard on the observers not necessarily the riders.

Steeling parts from pop's bike? did you break something?? I think the wheel dimensions are the same but not positive. Like the others said phone call or try it and you will find out.

Looks like participation was very good!!!! They must be doing something right. "Edited by andy, Today, 01:26 PM. Fixed spelling. It was annoying me. "

The 2002 is better improved design wise than the 1999. I had no problems obtaining parts for the 2000 2.9 that I had owned for 7 yrs that I just recently sold. But again buy on condition...........but you won't know the true condition until you physically look at it. Too bad the distance is so great.

Wow Bou is HUMAN after all.

Not exactly my "Cup O Tea" musically, But them old boys sure can play!

I think he may be practicing to be the next Toni Bou Toni with no engine running.

yesterday I fitted a new shift lever that I got off Ebay. It sticks out a little bit more than the stock lever, but this gives more clearance between the lever and the flywheel cover. The folding tip is also a little longer than stock. This combination made it much easier to shift when putting around my driveway. Hopefully it does not stick out too far and get mangled on a tree/rock etc.

That's really getting in touch with nature!

the automatic throttle and clutch thing is true,especially when things get a little a little out of hand.

Hold the bars "loosely" don't have them in a "death grip". Sounds like you are covering the clutch so that is good. Keep one finger on it. and yep practice, practice, practice. Like 0007 says, practice throttle control specifically. also try slipping the clutch, kinda like working the throttle against the clutch. Hold throttle with some engine RPMs (low) and use the clutch to keep yourself staying in one spot. It is ok to first try this with your foot down to get an idea of what everything is doing. This may help you control the throttle and get used to the relationship between the throttle and clutch. (also useful in tight turns)

Well, this was not today but last Saturday (day 1 of 2 day event). I lost all rear brake, push pedal down and it went past the skidplate, no pressure. So right in the pit (paddock) area in the middle of the event I rebuilt the rear brake master cylinder. Remove the two bolts that hold the master in place on the frame and wiggle it around so that the master is between the swing arm and the muffler with the bottom pointing out. Pop out snap ring, pull out plunger, spring and remark about all the crap that was in there on the seals. Then shove new plunger and spring in and get the snap ring in. wiggle it around and remount it and VOILA I am off and running. This whole thing got me thinking about maintenance and repair. When these things are done at home in the garage/shop most of us are very meticulous about making sure everything is clean! Make sure there are no bits of dirt, metal etc. within 40 feet of whatever we are repairing. But in the middle of an event, when we need to repair and get riding this is basically what is running through my head "Just Shove That Part in there, Dirt don't matter, GO GO GO!!!!"

Unfortunately no. I will not be able to attend. The mythical checkbook hath run dry, and the keepers of the time called vacation have become quite stingy.

http://trialsusgp.com/ Yep bad scheduling........... US World Round May 25 and 26

That is going to be quite an expensive $$$$$$ fix. Rear fender, fuel tank, exhaust, anything other large parts??