If it still does what you want it to do with no unusual noises or a need for more throttle than what you had before.......................
Just ride it until you really have a problem.
Or if you are bored during the off season, tear it down and measure and replace. but if you tear it down you may as well rebuild to make tearing it apart worthwhile.
You are correct about a learning curve. You already know where all the controls are located, but you will use them differently than you are used to. do not get discouraged at your rate of progress, if you think it is too slow. Just remember to focus on fun and learning the rest will come later.
I agree that every rider should learn trials first..........I did as a kid and it has served me well riding street bikes, especially on the way to work. Because that gets very routine and we tend to pay less attention on roads that we travel frequently.
The other day I reassembled my swing arm, rear tire and put the seat/airbox and gas tank back on. rear end recieved new suspension bearings (dog bones and where dog bones connect at swing arm) clean and lubed the hell out of the other suspension bearings, new rear brake pads, rear wheel bearings and put the header pipe protector on. Fired it up and rode around my yard in the snow. I found out 3rd works pretty good in snow. and one more thing I LOVE THIS BIKE!!! the 300 is just perfect for the putsy way I ride but when I need the wind up it is there! The suspension WORKS so much better than the 2000 Sherco I had. I have High Hopes for this season.
Today I rode it around the driveway, well just because I can, aftarwards I am cleaning the air filter, it is drying at the moment and will oil it when dry. Just need to change the Gearbox oil and she is ready to pitch me off the back!
Yes we do actually have much great riding areas, but like Steve Fracy says the ones we can actually use are very far apart. Much like you guys travelling a couple of coutries away to get to them.
MOTA is fortunate because most of our events are located in one state and 2 event sites are outside of the state. but just past the state border line. If I understand correctly most of the "local" clubs in the USA actually incorporate an average of 5 states. (I may be wrong on that)
MOTA depends VERY HIGHLY on private land owners willing to allow us to ride on their land. The Bent Fenders club in MOTA currently uses a property that is 10 acres at the most, so we have to work with what we got. and one thing MOTA riders can do is tight turns............or at least you learn pretty quick.
I have seen video of Travis Pastrana do backflips off some pretty small take offs with his MX bike. This may be shorter than I have seen him do. Pretty close
Wow
I still wince every time i see a backflip, just dont like what would happen if it went wrong.
Age related probably
There have been some recent deaths in the Freestyle motorsports disciplines. (moto x and snowmachine) and if my info is correct they were all crashes while doing a backflip of some kind. So yea I wince a bit also ..... but I also still watch.
I started out in trials back in the late 70's and early 80's, everything was cable. I was too young (read that as did not pay attention) to discern the nuances of lever placement. Sections were a bit different then also, hardly ever touched the clutch and my TY175 would idle so low it fired once every 10 mins anyways.
Got out of trials in my late teens and returned many years later on a TLR200 Reflex riding modern sections against those with hydraulic clutch, brakes. HOLY CRAP did my wrist and forearms hurt after every event. When I upgraded to a Fantic Section (95 I think) The difference was tremendous, everything had such a light pull and was just wonderful to ride. After a few years my abilities progressed and I noticed more subtle nuances in clutch and brake pull. So now I am a bit particular in my set up. and set up is different for everyone.
SOOOO long drawn out useless story to say set up for what is comfortable for you and keeps you in control without being too sore at the end of your ride.
OK, reduce risk of bending and short levers reduce leverage...hence heavier action..simples
actually I believe the "short" 2 finger levers have more leverage than the "long" 4 finger levers. The area for fingers to be on the lever is shorter for the 2 finger levers but the distance from the master cylinder to the point where the index finger (1st) is actually longer than on the 4 finger levers.
02 and 03 Pro's had a STEEL muffler (mid box) all others have alum, with varying by year mufflers and silencers just little tabs welded and holes drilled that you put screws through.
I fogot to mention that part of it. I am glad mine is steel.
Biffsgasgas actually specifically ordered the STEEL mid box for his 04 300. I don't recall the price or where from, but their reaction was kinda funny.
Parts guy : "You do realize that the steel mid box is heavier"
Check the mid-muffler top mount, not sure how other years attach but my 03 mid muffler attaches using the same bolt as the shock top bolt. I did have to bend the mid muffler mounting bracket back to vertical.
But I have seen many Gas Gas' rub holes in the muffler.
I negleted to squeeze my clutch lever the other day when I did my dog bone bearings..................... So I made up for it the next day with much vigorous Clutch SQUEEZING!!!
It must have been good............the bike and I both felt like having a when I was done...........
If that is the only wierd thing it is doing I would ride it and try to pinpoint the cause during the trial. The only way you will see how it acts to different things is if you ride it.
If it is idling odd or reving funny or things like that, that may point towards crank seals and should not ride it sunday.
I do like that ITSA rule, thank you for telling me about it actually being in use. Within MOTA I have said for years that stop with foot down should be a 5 and not a 1 as it is now. (crap, I think I am thinking much like Chuck does.........could be worse)
even worse...NATC FIM, are pushing some other rulings..that you have to prove you can ride , before you can ride Pro, Exp or Adv. even if youv been riding that class for years, at the national level.
a rider grading group so to speak..
imagine, sending in your money, packing up you bike, and gear, taking time off work, driving 2000 miles, spending money on fuel, motel ect, then have somebody say...you cant ride, your not good enough, you dropped 80 points last year at an event...too bad.
That would SUCK!!! everytime I moved up a class I routinely dropped over 100 points every event for the first year. But that is how I got better. Besides if I am dumb enough to ride that class let me go, I know the risks!
)
anyways.
when I was done...........
Txt 250 New Rings Or Piston As Well?
in Gas Gas
Posted
If it still does what you want it to do with no unusual noises or a need for more throttle than what you had before.......................
Just ride it until you really have a problem.
Or if you are bored during the off season, tear it down and measure and replace. but if you tear it down you may as well rebuild to make tearing it apart worthwhile.