First off, I HATE wiring. And I will assume you now do as well.
Looking at the pic, the yellow wire in the middle of your left palm, going from big white connector at the bottom of the pic to the little black connector in your palm looks like it may be broken/frayed at the little black connector in your palm. May want to look at that and decide if that needs a better connection.
Great post sting pretty much sums it up Surely this nonsense wont take root here in the U.S. but just in case we had better ride all the club events central regionals and Nationals before the Kaos starts. The beauty of the sport is i can have still have a great time just riding on the farm if those hell bent on dividing the sport and choose to ruin all competitions. Seems like there is always someone to whatever part of life it is that wants to ad unenforcable rules and regulations. Im an old guy who can only balance for two maybe three seconds before my foot goes down but you know what there is a class for me and i dont need to impose on those who can.
Yep, some of the older riders may have to ride "down a class" and no longer be labeled "Expert". The sport has progressed and evolved past their current abilities. Hopefully I live and can ride long enough for that to happen to me.
It is a bit of a hit to the ego, but it happens to all of us.
I ride Advanced but there are gentlemen in the MOTA Senior class that I would be unable to beat riding the same Senior line as them. They are just so damn good and smooth after so many years riding. But they would not be able to beat me riding Advanced lines because it is a different set of skills. Why should we limit everyone to using only one set of skills for the sport?
"Lower" class sections typically can be ridden No stop. "higher" class sections Usually lend themselves to Stop and Hop.
Stop and balance = 0
Stop with foot down = 5
Make all riders understand the observer has final say = DO NOT argue with the observer.
Make all observers understand the need for consistency = NO special stop counts for certain riders, all riders get same 1 sec or 20 second count. Just be consistent and then all the riders are scored the same for that section. preferably entire event.
Actually, I'm finding I can do more harm to myself by getting up to pee in the middle of the night, and then tripping over the dog, than most any other way.....
Zippy, Good Luck on the linkage bearings. Are you using the caged needle bearings mentioned in another thread here that have the seals built into the ends of the unit? I wish I'd seen that before I'd already bought my bearings, bushings, & seals....
Congrats on locating spark in your snowmobile! I typically find all the sprk I need by scootin' across our carpet, and kissing the wife......
Jimmie
Ya gotta watch out for those ninja dogs. very sneaky they are
I have the All Balls bearing kit, it has the seals separate from the bearings..........It came with the bike when I bought it. So not really out any extra $$
How does your wife like the static shock that builds up from scootin' across the carpet. Does the kiss go a little like this. Scoot Scoot "Hey Honey, Love you" smooch ZZZZZAAAAAAPPPPPP! followed by a loving slap to your face?
I just recently purchased the 10 yr old brother to the 2013 300 pro. (fancy way of saying I bought a 2003 300 pro) I was riding a 2000 Sherco 2.9 (272cc) and the difference between bikes is HUGE. Part of it is different manufacturers but the bottom end of the 300 is much more torquey. I like to ride with more of a put put and rev when I need it type of style. The Sherco had some of that but for an example of the difference, I rode a rainy muddy event with the 300, and in a section was a shortish hill. I did not build enough momentum at the bottom to carry me all the way up. In the middle of the hill I needed more go and I just cracked the throttle a little bit and the 300 just chugged up the rest of the way. If I would have been on my Sherco the rear wheel would have just spun.
Thanks for the motor/controller leads, both are very affordable compared to the stuff I was looking into. I have always wanted more programming options than the Kelly brushed controllers I have. Someone yesterday was telling me about all the options on their R/C planes controller and I guess I need to step up to brushless to get that.
I was hoping for more info on that motor like rpms etc, can you point me to the kit this motor is a part of?
This is lifted directly from the page the motor is on:
Tips:
OUR baby are many kinds, different packaging, singlet, so shipping costs will be based on the quantities and types of pro-purchased accounting pro who shot the baby before contact with the store first estimated freight, such as after delivery, combined with the actual shipping costs Duotuishaobu.Your parents are aware of.Logistics of the baby, transit time may be longer, please be patient, inconvenience, please understand.
OH Crap my parents are aware of the Logistics of the baby!!!!
That's probably why I am here..................................
I have been in the garage off and on for the past few days. I have looked longingly at my Gas Gas many times while out there. But alas I have not been able to pump her clutch lever or install the rear suspension bearings that I tore her apart to do. So as she is sitting with swingarm removed and in many pieces I have done the unthinkable and cheated on the Old B.A.G.G.........
I have been chasing spark on a 1985 Yamaha Phazer snowmobile, I am happy to report that I have found it!!
Now I am having a celebratory
(just wanted to brag a little bit, because I HATE chasing spark and I just had to brag to somebody that I found it)
Well 600 miles, 8 1/2 hours and probably 3 points on my licence later (camera van on motorway bridge ), the Beta is tucked up in my garage for the night.
Judging from your excitement, I would say that it will be considered a worthwhile trip.............points on license included.
The WTC national trials council has announced new rules for national events. Organizers of non-national, WTC-sanctioned events are still free to use Rule 4i, which provides for these rules to be tailored to local preferences.
Changes to scoring. A new paragraph is added to rule 4d (definition of a failure) which reads as follows: "any part of the rider remains in contact with the ground for a period of approximately five seconds (during which the observer counts aloud from 'one' to 'five'), while the the machine remains stationary"
I interpret this to be Stop and Balance is OK = clean Stop with foot down is not ok = 5. Sounds like the stop with penalty rule. I like that because you can still use modern techniques but you have to actually be in control of the bike when using these techniques. I really think this rule is a good bridge between stop and foot down for 5 minutes and only get a one and the no stop idea.
Since I live in Ontario, Canada and am in Rhode Island, USA till late next week, I just fantasized about squeezing my clutch lever.
I could record a graphic and detailed "instructional" video of me squeezing my Gas Gas' clutch lever. To help you get through this tough time until you can be re-united with your Gas Gas
Fired my sons 280 andorra up ,ran it till fan kicked in and out , changed brake & clutch fluid , replaced gearbox oil , greased all the linkages , torqued the linkage bolt's back up . Finish up tomorrow by polishing frame , refit back end ,check the air filter ,re grease wheel spindles . then try and post a picture on here , that's where it'll all go a bit daft .
That pesky technology computer program thingys are the tough ones to figure out.
Just keep in mind to HEAL UP first. Broken back is not something you want to push too soon and cause more damage. OK public service announcement out of the way. on to bike selection.
Generally from a price point of view modern 4T trials bikes will cost more to purchase than a 2T. Probably because there are so few of them in comparison to 2T. Personally I would go with 250cc or larger. If your plan is to use the bike to get back into shape and have some fun, and maybe a few competitions, any of the modern bikes after 2000 should serve you well. I rode a 2000 Sherco 2.9 (272cc) for the past 7 years at Club level events in the Advanced class and it had served me well. As you probably already know, buy based on condition not solely on year. If possible ride as many bikes as you can, they all do "feel" differently. Some drastically so.
If you are already planning on a strip down, powder coat and rebuild after it fires up, you may be farther ahead just biting the bullet and tearing her down now and starting from scratch.
in that video the first mistake, picking bike up, second mistake looking around for something to pull when the rear brake lever is readily available and the bike was in gear. push down on rear brake and engine stalls.
I would first try to put the rear brake on if bike is in gear, then stuff the exhaust if that did not work.
OR
if you desire a new bike, just let it go into catastrophic failure. sell it dirt cheap as a parts bike and then buy a brand new fancy pretty bike!!!! (oh this usually only works for the single guys out there. Us married blokes scramble to save that 15 yr old bike, because we know if it dies we have nothing to ride for the next 3 yrs)
I would only use the soapy water to mount the rim strip. The guy in the film says the rim strip is made from a very sticky kind of rubber and amor all has the opposite effect.
They make the rim strip from sticky rubber for a reason. To keep it well in it's place after the soapy water has evaporated I presume.
But I could be wrong...
Hmmmmmmmmmm.
Guess I will find out if the armor all has any adverse effects....................... If I remember I may post results either when it fails or yrs down the road when all is good.
Silicone eats into you`re alloy rim and destroys it. Total nightmare to get off. Unless you sell the bike this method will cost you a small fortune in the long run. ( or the next owner ) Sorry to sound harsh but I speak from experience.
it is not specifically the silicone that will eat the rim but rather the chemicals mixed with the silicone to cure it that will eat the rim???
but basically silicone sealent/caulk etc..=bad. (This was referenced in the above video)
Also noticing that the closer I get the tank to where it should be, the more it impinges the little black choke Lever from reaching full upright position. I know these are pure newby questions sorry.
Like Ham2 says keep the questions coming, we were all newbies once.
Copemech does a great job of answering Sherco questions, seems to really know his stuff. Generally he is very nice and polite to the new guys, wait until he gets to know you
I have not (knock on wood) seized a motor................yet.
But the 2000 sherco I had was getting a bit "tired" replaced piston in it at one time due to knocking and then the next time around I did a cylinder exchange and got a matching piston, rings and matching cylinder. The dealer I went through made sure to get me a Size "A" which is the smallest, so because I am a bit of a tight wad with $$ I could go up to a size "D" before needing another cylinder. Oddly enough I did sell the bike about a year after I did the cylinder replacement, so I guess the new owner will benefit from that. You may want to see what size piston you are getting
Well, I put the new Rim strip in today. went much better than expected.
Instead of soapy water I used basically the equivalent of Armor All. it is a silicone protectant for plastic, rubber, etc...
My logic was it was made for that stuff and it is slippy when wet, it let the rim strip slide around a little bit like it should and because it is for protecting and shining rubber, etc. then it should not harm it in the long run.
Tire has been refitted and currently holding 5 psi.
NO extra sealants or goop.
Just the rim, a new rim strip and some of that armor all stuff. Crossing my fingers it was done well enough.
I never ride a bike gentley after a rebuild, you need to wear the rings to the bore, and the rough finish on a new cylinder after honing is there to wear the rings in. if you ride around too gently you will polish the hone marks off before they wear the rings in. Never use high revs while running in but give it some under load at lower revs through gears the to force the rings to the shape of the bore.
So basically just go ride some sections of a medium difficulty and you should be good??
many times while out there. But alas I have not been able to pump her clutch lever or install the rear suspension bearings that I tore her apart to do. So as she is sitting with swingarm removed and in many pieces I have done the unthinkable and cheated on the Old B.A.G.G......... 
), the Beta is tucked up in my garage for the night.
He never let go of the bars though!!! 
Trial - Indoor Barcelona 2013
in Trials Videos
Posted
Really enjoyed watching this earlier today. Thanks!