zippy

Best thing you can do is go practice with friends, especially ones that ride better and are willing to "push" you a bit (and pick you up afterwards) Let me know how you get the bike to come down from the tree without breaking things, that would be a good skill to learn. Plastic ties and a drill bit could "stich" your fenders back together, depending on how badly broke they are.

This may help you identify the year. http://www.gasgasmuseum.com/

Nope, as long as there is fluid in the master cylinders and not sucking air into the lines you should be ok just topping off the fluid and putting the covers on. Are you having problems with the front brake/clutch currently? or have you just noticed fluid level in the window is low?

It is always great fun when you "click" with your bike. About the cramped feeling of being too close to the bars. 2 possible solutions. Buy a set of taller bars and/or bar risers. Or shorten the width of your bars (I will explain) The following is merely my opinion and what worked for me. Get on your bike and hold onto the bars. Look at your wrists. Your forearm and hand should be in-line with each other. If your bars are too wide the back of your hand will be pointed in towards the center of the handlebars. Keeping roughly the same bend in your elbows Slowly bring your hands in toward the center of the bars. (this may may be a small amount like a 1/2 in./ few mms) until your forearms and hands are in line. This will reduce stress on your wrists as well as move your upper body back a little bit, easing the tension on your back. Being comfortable will also improve your riding and then you will feel just like Toni Bou, or if you are crazy enough you could feel like Fujigas!

At least that was "clean" humor.

Bet that didn't last long

OK update. rode the Reflex to my brother's house. He has the drill bit (.016"). remove carb from hot bike. that was fun. Drilled out the pilot jet using bit, hands and pliers to hold the bit. Reinstall the following parts: pilot jet, baffle around main jet, oil breather/separator, snorkel in air box. basically returned the bike to stock with larger jets. Air screw is at 1.75 turns out like book states. I left my brother's house and bike spit and sputter before I even get into 3rd gear. I ride 3 miles hoping it will just "sort out". No such luck. pull over to side of road and remove the snorkel. (I took my own tools with me) Ride the rest of the way home NO sputter, bike revved out pretty cleanly. I swear I even saw the speedo needle point at 56MPH!!!!!! I am going to call it fixed. I guess it will just be a bit "throaty" in sound. THANK YOU EVERYONE for all your help, and suggestions

Everytime I ride it now it is pinned WFO!!! problem is WFO = 53mph We at Team WGASA may not be the best trials riders but we are very entertaining. OH Lord don't get me started on the F*****G Morons that won't wear proper safety gear, act like idiots and let their kids ride on machines that are WAY too big physically and motorwise for the kid. Also without proper safety gear. These are the people that non-riders remember and these are the idiots that are requiring stupid laws about off road riding.

Have seen posts where people have shimmed the needle. Worthwhile??? I am trying to avoid spending money because......well I am cheap that's why. I plan on drilling the pilot jet and returning the snorkel to the airbox. Not really liking the new sound when I open the throttle. I miss the whisper quiet Reflex I had. I also suspect with the snorkel out my fuel economy went way down. can't explain why but I had to put it on reserve 10 miles earlier than I ever did before.

Oddly enough after removing the snorkel I have ridden it 4 times and only had 1 sputter. Plug was white and chalky originally, drilled out main jet and then plug was a decent brown color but still spit and sputter. Then I removed snorkel. Have not checked plug color after snorkel removal. Still plan on drilling pilot. going with a #78 (.016") because my brother has that size Those of us that are members of Team WGASA have ridden over ourselves before, we know how to 5 with style!! Not sure how a quad class would work out? not much balance there unless needed to go 2 wheels around something. 6ft splatter with a quad?? interesting. Thongs here are a type of, let's just say, minimum type of undergarment. Durex over here has a closer connection to XXX (not the beer) than sticky tape does.

Alrighty, I removed the "tube things" from the airbox. There was no spit or sputter on the way to work and only 1 on the way home. I thought she was a bit loud on the intake before but now there is a very loud deep throated BBWWWWWAAAAAAAA when the throttle is opened up. And this bike is being run at WOT for an 8 mile stretch which equals a top speed of 53mph I do plan on drilling the pilot jet, probably today. With the hopes that I will reach 55mph I got one of those quads, no suspension, 4 speed, no clutch. mine is of the '85ish years YFM80 MOTO4. For a laugh watch this video. Biff is shirtless and wearing flip flops. I take the quad back and show how it is done.

Lineaway does this sound familiar "(#77 drill bit) .018" would be equivialent to something between a 45-48 Keihin pilot jet size" Found in the Thumpertalk forums, (gotta give credit ya know)

Lineaway, thanks maybe some googling and I will find what size hole Keihin 45 and 48 jets have in them. While at work I was thinking about that pilot and was beginning to think that the main supplements the fuel to what the pilot provides. So I was thinking they work in conjunction of one another. mcman56, yep I had the bike stripped of lights and used it as a trials bike for setting up sections for Beginner and Novice classes. Never really revved it up, so did not notice this problem at the time.

OK removing the baffle around the main jet did not do anything. I didn't really think it would. I have removed the tube looking structure from the airbox. next will be a test ride. This may take a few days to get this sorted as I have decided to try one thing at a time.

You have said that Serow is a fun machine to ride. But unfortunately it would cost me about $2000 in fuel just to pick it up. A hard sell to the little woman. Now if I could somehow get some riding done and a family vacation out of it........Nope still won't go over well. Actually no I have not checked the ignition timing. this thing is not adjustable. But checking the timing would help diagnose if I need a new CDI for it. HMMMM may have to check into this. Book says I need to hook up a tach along with the timing light. any way of being relatively accurate without the tach?

Thank you for the replies, anybody got more ideas I welcome them. Wish me luck............Or I get out the BFH

Battery is new this season. no resister in plug cap that I know of. ( I also took cap off and trimmed wire and redid connection, same result in running) I may need to go over the grounds again. I am too cheap to spend around 5k, already got the Reflex.

any idea what cdi box to look for? If I need to go that route.

Would the pilot have anything to do with high revs? It idles and performs well at low RPM. What size bit should I drill it with? I went from a 10 tooth CS sprocket to a stock 13 tooth. will try the airbox opening up idea.

OK I am very frustrated at this point. decided to use my 1986 Reflex as a commuter bike for work (11 miles). Yes it is about as comfortable as a tack on a 2x4 set edgewise but 65 mpg is cool. Problem is at high revs any gear under load and also no load, it spits, sputters and does kind of a backfire thing into carb. Really annoying at 50mph and in the dark when it stalls. I have thought fuel issue, carb is CLEAN!!! (many times) tried various settings for air screw. Float adjusted so there should be enough fuel in there to drown an elephant, but not coming out the overflow pipe. Tank filter is clean and new inline filter. Jets are stock 38 - 92 but the main jet has "accidentally" been enlarged to 1.0mm New O-rings on intake pipe both ends. I also replaced cam chain and guides and rings. I initially thought the cam chain was the problem. Valves are a pain to adjust, that .002 of an inch is hard to get. I have the shop manual, so it tells me how and what values to test the electrical things like rectifier and such, but I need to buy a new meter. New plug NGK DR8ES "for extended high speed riding" before that was a DR8ES-L I thought maybe the old plug was too hot and cylinder was overheating. I am going to try removing the baffle around the main jet. Stab in the dark as they say. Thoughts, Opinions or just some witty remarks to help me out??

On older Sherco's head did not need to be removed but coolent needed to be drained. I assume on a 2010 the head does not need to be removed, but I am unsure how the coolent is routed in the new motor. Probably will need to drained.

www.tryalsshop.com is where I got my chain and sprockets. http://tryalsshop.com/#ecwid:category=162476&mode=product&product=358896 They also had a kit with half link in it for the chain. *I have no affiliation with Tryals Shop, just a happy customer.

Only way to get new tools.

I have done my fork seals many times.... ..wait that makes me sound like I don't know what I am doing. Anyways I had issues with internal parts braking and rubbing together making metal shavings and a knick in the tube etc..... I think you have the same forks I do. Both sides have the same internals. There is a dust seal that you pry up with flat blade screw driver and then the wire retaining clip and under that is the fork oil seal. Check out these links http://www.sherco.com/wayne/Sherco_Fork_Seal_Replacement.pdf http://www.sherco.com/EN/wayne_corner.html