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zippy

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Posts posted by zippy
 
 
  1. ' can't explain why but I had to put it on reserve 10 miles earlier than I ever did before. '

    'Cause you actually rode the thing WFO for a while !!!! :):chairfall: ???

    Glenn B)

    And interesting lunchtime video entertainment !!!

    Everytime I ride it now it is pinned WFO!!! problem is WFO = 53mph <_<

    We at Team WGASA may not be the best trials riders but we are very entertaining.

    And our event last weekend was at a ATV park ... The LITTLE kids on 400cc+ 4x4 quads with no helmets and flipflops on kinda scare me ...almost as much as the adults? on the loud baffle less ones (also helmetless and flipflop ...)

    But a 50cc rigid class for trials riders would be a ball !

    OH Lord don't get me started on the F*****G Morons that won't wear proper safety gear, act like idiots and let their kids ride on machines that are WAY too big physically and motorwise for the kid. Also without proper safety gear. These are the people that non-riders remember and these are the idiots that are requiring stupid laws about off road riding. :wall:

  2. You go up on the pilot because it comes lean from the factory. Needle is non adjustable and if he wants to spend money there are several threads on other needles. At this point I would look at a larger cs. sprocket and in the future an adjustable cam chain sprocket which is only 20 dollars if you like a little work.

    Have seen posts where people have shimmed the needle. Worthwhile???

    I am trying to avoid spending money because......well I am cheap that's why.

    I plan on drilling the pilot jet and returning the snorkel to the airbox. Not really liking the new sound when I open the throttle. I miss the whisper quiet Reflex I had. I also suspect with the snorkel out my fuel economy went way down. can't explain why but I had to put it on reserve 10 miles earlier than I ever did before.

  3. try a new coil ht lead and perhaps a plug without a resistor if there is one in the cap you possibly wouldnt know ,, symptems sound more like its lean top end though and removing snorkel could make it worse which could point in right direction ,, cant see the issue been the pilot , have you tried lifting or dropping needle and what is plug colour

    Oddly enough after removing the snorkel I have ridden it 4 times and only had 1 sputter. Plug was white and chalky originally, drilled out main jet and then plug was a decent brown color but still spit and sputter. Then I removed snorkel. Have not checked plug color after snorkel removal. Still plan on drilling pilot. going with a #78 (.016") because my brother has that size :D

    You guys do realize how event attendance would triple if you had a Quad class :rolleyes:

    Running over your own flipflop is likely a 5...

    Those of us that are members of Team WGASA have ridden over ourselves before, we know how to 5 with style!! :D Not sure how a quad class would work out? not much balance there unless needed to go 2 wheels around something. 6ft splatter with a quad?? interesting.

    good video Zippy and it's good to know that Biff's footwear has a sensible name there - they are "Thongs" here in OZ and I think in New Zealand they are "Jandals"

    Kinda like how sticky tape here is called Durex and the most popular beer in my state is called XXXX

    Thongs here are a type of, let's just say, minimum type of undergarment.

    Durex over here has a closer connection to XXX (not the beer) than sticky tape does.

  4. Alrighty, I removed the "tube things" from the airbox. There was no spit or sputter on the way to work and only 1 on the way home. I thought she was a bit loud on the intake before but now there is a very loud deep throated BBWWWWWAAAAAAAA when the throttle is opened up.

    And this bike is being run at WOT for an 8 mile stretch which equals a top speed of 53mph

    I do plan on drilling the pilot jet, probably today. With the hopes that I will reach 55mph :P

    I had one in my '85 Yam 80 quad

    I got one of those quads, no suspension, 4 speed, no clutch. mine is of the '85ish years YFM80 MOTO4. For a laugh watch this video. :popcorn: Biff is shirtless and wearing flip flops. I take the quad back and show how it is done.

  5. Lineaway, thanks maybe some googling and I will find what size hole Keihin 45 and 48 jets have in them. While at work I was thinking about that pilot and was beginning to think that the main supplements the fuel to what the pilot provides. So I was thinking they work in conjunction of one another.

    mcman56, yep I had the bike stripped of lights and used it as a trials bike for setting up sections for Beginner and Novice classes. Never really revved it up, so did not notice this problem at the time.

  6. Yea, sell you my XT 225 Serow for 2K, come get it!

    You have said that Serow is a fun machine to ride. But unfortunately it would cost me about $2000 in fuel just to pick it up. A hard sell to the little woman. Now if I could somehow get some riding done and a family vacation out of it........Nope still won't go over well.

    I know you probably have but double check your timing , to much advance can do what you describe too. It is a pain to do but you can check one with a light at upper rpms . May take 2 people to get a accurate view thru the little timing mark hole ....

    Have fun nonetheless...!

    Actually no I have not checked the ignition timing. this thing is not adjustable. But checking the timing would help diagnose if I need a new CDI for it. HMMMM may have to check into this. Book says I need to hook up a tach along with the timing light. any way of being relatively accurate without the tach?

  7. I alway like to say "Check yer grounds" on crap like this,ignition to engine,engine to frame,coil grounds,ect.

    Not familar with Refluxes but if yours has a battery that could cause issues if it's bad. Does it have a resistor in the plug cap? Seems like I remember those causing problems in old hondas.

    P.S.My buddy Bill just bought one of those new Honda dualsport 250s,getting 80mpg right outa the crate...Looks cool,runs smooth(Fuel Injected),pleasant to ride,shifts perfectly,and dirt cheap!!!!under 5k out the door...Bill has a couple of Reflex he could be street riding too,prefers a little comfort instead :)

    Battery is new this season.

    no resister in plug cap that I know of. ( I also took cap off and trimmed wire and redid connection, same result in running)

    I may need to go over the grounds again.

    I am too cheap to spend around 5k, already got the Reflex. :D

  8. hi, your mains been drilled out to 1.00mm.....which equates to a 102.5 keihin main jet, so should be plenty. lineaway is right in saying the standard air box is restrictive. sure i read somewhere also that the ignition curve is not very good for top end running, and a cheepo pit bike cdi box helps. try the simple things first though.....

    any idea what cdi box to look for? If I need to go that route.

  9. S_hit, give us a hard one next time. The pilot is too small, hard to find also. Adventure rider trials forum had a thread about cb400 jets. I `m inpatient. Drill it!! Also a larger CS sprocket can`t hurt. The air box needs all that silly stuff on top(the plasic looking pipes) removed they come right out and can be re-installed. The main could still be too small at your elevation. Seemed I had a 100 at 6000ft. If your main jet is as large as you say, try the air box first. Good luck!

    Would the pilot have anything to do with high revs? It idles and performs well at low RPM.

    What size bit should I drill it with?

    I went from a 10 tooth CS sprocket to a stock 13 tooth.

    will try the airbox opening up idea.

  10. OK I am very frustrated at this point. decided to use my 1986 Reflex as a commuter bike for work (11 miles). Yes it is about as comfortable as a tack on a 2x4 set edgewise but 65 mpg is cool.

    Problem is at high revs any gear under load and also no load, it spits, sputters and does kind of a backfire thing into carb. Really annoying at 50mph and in the dark when it stalls.

    I have thought fuel issue, carb is CLEAN!!! (many times) tried various settings for air screw. Float adjusted so there should be enough fuel in there to drown an elephant, but not coming out the overflow pipe. Tank filter is clean and new inline filter. Jets are stock 38 - 92 but the main jet has "accidentally" been enlarged to 1.0mm

    New O-rings on intake pipe both ends.

    I also replaced cam chain and guides and rings. I initially thought the cam chain was the problem. Valves are a pain to adjust, that .002 of an inch is hard to get.

    I have the shop manual, so it tells me how and what values to test the electrical things like rectifier and such, but I need to buy a new meter.

    New plug NGK DR8ES "for extended high speed riding" before that was a DR8ES-L I thought maybe the old plug was too hot and cylinder was overheating.

    I am going to try removing the baffle around the main jet. Stab in the dark as they say.

    Thoughts, Opinions or just some witty remarks to help me out??

  11. On older Sherco's head did not need to be removed but coolent needed to be drained. I assume on a 2010 the head does not need to be removed, but I am unsure how the coolent is routed in the new motor. Probably will need to drained.

  12. I have done my fork seals many times.... :dunce: ..wait that makes me sound like I don't know what I am doing. Anyways I had issues with internal parts braking and rubbing together making metal shavings and a knick in the tube etc.....

    I think you have the same forks I do. Both sides have the same internals. There is a dust seal that you pry up with flat blade screw driver and then the wire retaining clip and under that is the fork oil seal.

    Check out these links

    http://www.sherco.com/wayne/Sherco_Fork_Seal_Replacement.pdf

    http://www.sherco.com/EN/wayne_corner.html

  13. I got all crazy and bought a spark plug socket and took the old socket and with a dremel cutting disc cut off the hex end of the socket. Now that hex end fits in the top of the fork cap and also my 3/8 drive ratchet fits in the cut off hex end of the spark plug socket.

    For a fork seal driver I use a chunk of PVC pipe, off hand I forget the exact size but I think it is 1 1/2 but measure first before going off my memory. I used the dremel to round off the end of the pipel

    (Sure glad I bought my wife that Dremel for her birthday :D )

    • Like 1
  14. Personally in my 2000 Sherco 2.9 I run Amsoil Dominator full synthetic 2 stroke oil at 80:1 with 93 octane or higher pump gas. No need for race gas. Mine actually runs like dog poo on race gas. As far as non-ethanol fuel, I actually don't worry about it. I just ride the thing and have fun. My personal opinion (and this will be highly contested with those that know engines) is that 10% ethanol is not enough to produce significant adverse effects on my Sherco. Besides it is WAY too much hassle to try and find the octane I need with 0 ethanol.

    For fork oil I use Maxima 85-150 (5wt. SUS-VI) that what is says on bottle. I find it at a local bike shop.

    Just my opinion.

    what paint did you use? It looks really good

  15. Thanks zippy

    Just been down to my woods and tried what you recommended it worked I might even try lower ,what would you think would be as low as I could go.

    I now understand what you mean by tyre flexing.

    Thanks alot

    Ben,12

    Glad it worked for you. I would tend to agree with Tony27 that about 5 is probably the lowest to go. What you want is a good middle ground of a little tire flex to keep a contact patch in place but also enough air so that the tire will still turn when and where you want it to go.

  16. Don't neglet the front tire!! Yes it is true that the front tire lasts longer than the rear because there is no power being applied to the tire, but I believe the front should be changed before age cracking sets in. I personally noticed a HUGE difference in turning ability every time I put a new tire on the front. Traction is just as important on the front as it is on the rear (unless you ride on the rear tire all the time like the WTC guys)

    Just my opinion.

  17. Shercoben12 The front tire slipping away on down hill turns could be too much air pressure (sidewalls too hard and not flexing with the downward pressure of the bike as it tries to turn to the side. If it flexes a little then the tread contact patch will stay put, if it don't flex then tread contact patch slides), or possibly technique (for example too much front brake applied will not allow tire to rotate well and it slides down hill, someone once told me about gravity but I am not so sure it exists. Look at Toni Bou)

    But if you are running 2 - 2.5 psi in the rear and that works good for your weight, I would suggest dropping the front pressure down to about 5 and adjust from there to see if there is a difference on those downhill turns.

  18. Fair enough, I'm trying to help, not look for an argument,

    Niether am I, to be honest I thought 16lb was rather high and while I was tightening up mine I was sweating a bit :)

    A good indicator that something is not quite right would be that really worried feeling that it is just too tight.

    Just a side note on this thread, I am rebuilding my Honda TLR200 Reflex engine and nothing has been apart on this engine since 1986. (I know history of bike personally). Holy Crap every bolt was just TIGHT! busted a couple knuckles "popping" loose case cover and case bolts. Every bolt had me worried I would break the bolt before getting it loose.

    Speaking of the #3 phillips head screws, I left the oil pump attached just because those are what is holding it on. :wall:

 
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