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Don't neglet the front tire!! Yes it is true that the front tire lasts longer than the rear because there is no power being applied to the tire, but I believe the front should be changed before age cracking sets in. I personally noticed a HUGE difference in turning ability every time I put a new tire on the front. Traction is just as important on the front as it is on the rear (unless you ride on the rear tire all the time like the WTC guys) Just my opinion.

Shercoben12 The front tire slipping away on down hill turns could be too much air pressure (sidewalls too hard and not flexing with the downward pressure of the bike as it tries to turn to the side. If it flexes a little then the tread contact patch will stay put, if it don't flex then tread contact patch slides), or possibly technique (for example too much front brake applied will not allow tire to rotate well and it slides down hill, someone once told me about gravity but I am not so sure it exists. Look at Toni Bou) But if you are running 2 - 2.5 psi in the rear and that works good for your weight, I would suggest dropping the front pressure down to about 5 and adjust from there to see if there is a difference on those downhill turns.

A good indicator that something is not quite right would be that really worried feeling that it is just too tight. Just a side note on this thread, I am rebuilding my Honda TLR200 Reflex engine and nothing has been apart on this engine since 1986. (I know history of bike personally). Holy Crap every bolt was just TIGHT! busted a couple knuckles "popping" loose case cover and case bolts. Every bolt had me worried I would break the bolt before getting it loose. Speaking of the #3 phillips head screws, I left the oil pump attached just because those are what is holding it on.

I just did a quick look, Loved the captions "Martin Lampkin demostrating body English" next picture: "Marland Whaley demonstrating body American" the writer had a good sense of humor

My 2000 has held up resonably well. The underneath mounting tabs for the bash plate (near dog bones) are very weak and would bend up and crack. had them welded for a couple years in a row then I decided to beef them up with some plate steel and a small gusset and have not had any problems since. It does the job, basically all the problems I have had with it were self induced, IE dropping it in stream and sucking in water and then running it for 2 years afterwards with all the silt and muck in the cases. Another bonus is that it will crash well, not too many bits break when I crash. Also the silencer is easier to repack than 2001 and up.

At a trial recently we had a rider whose Sherco ran perfect in practice the day before and had no spark the next day. Only thing he did different was he washed it. I told him that was the mistake, never was a trials bike they like dirt. What fixed it was this, we unmounted the magic electrical box that is located in the frame by the steering head. The mounting bracket had 2 wires connected to it. We assumed they were ground wires and that the bracket was not making good contact with the frame. using a wire brush, (fine grit sand paper would probably be better, but hey whatcha gonna do out in the field) cleaned frame mounting point and cleaned the mounting bracket. New plug and viola she runs. Bear in mind even after doing this we could not see the spark in the bright day light.

Yep I am sure that would help.

I get along fine with Dunlop D803's. It boils down to personal preference and price. Possible tires IRC TR11 Michelin X11 or Xlite Dunlop D803 Vee Rubber Pirelli MT43

If you are concerned enough to ask about frame breakage, and are trying to decide about reinvorcement then I suggest you should reinforce the parts you are concerned about.

I am running 80:1 with the Amsoil. Love the stuff. I did dump my bike in a creek once........ sucked in much silt and other crap. ran it for 2 yrs like that and it rattled like a bag of rocks. I have since then replaced crank bearings and seals and new piston, rings and replated matching cylinder. still running the 80:1 and the occaisonall "blow out" of the exhaust is needed. (crap it sounds like I am agreeing with Copemech, oh my the end of the world is nigh!! ) but if you want to err on the side of caution and run more oil that's fine just make sure your jetting is all set up for it so you get enough fuel to make the bang! More oil = less on the fuel. Just my opinions. Have fun riding!!!!!!! that is what it is all about.

yep 4psi rear usually good if muddy may drop to 3psi about 6psi front is good, if front tire pushes out too much when turning maybe drop to 5psi. it takes some expirementation to get what ya like. Pre mix for modern bikes standard seems to be 80:1 and a 2.9 is not a bad bike for a beginning trials rider that has experience on other bikes. Just take your time to get used to it and you will enjoy it.

You are welcome. May the repair be swift and pain free

I personally have not had to do a big end bearing, so I don't have a clue on replacing that.

I am inclined to think Crankshaft bearings (main bearings). (Please notice I did not say this is a definate, just what I think it may be) Yes it is a split cases job. If you already have the head off then the coolent is already drained (small bonus there) Follow the manual here http://sherco.com/EN/wayne_corner.html (Engine Teardown and Assembly Manual. much good info here) I would suggest if the following has not been replaced before than with the cases already split now is the time to do it. Rings, Crankshaft Bearings and Seals, small end bearing, wrist pin, Piston (if it is worn too much, manuals cover measurements and such) Look at the reeds and replace if necessary. Look at every moving part to make sure it is in usable condition.

http://www.Gas Gas.com/2012_electric.htm Here's one

personally I would like something similiar to the Moto Racer 3 setup. I am talking like real trials type sections indoor and outdoor. Make ya feel like Toni Bou. But I would like it to be on the Nintendo Wii. The balance board could be used for balancing the bike, The wii remote and nunchuck for handlebar controls. Hold nunchuck in left hand sideways like holding handlebar, one of the 2 buttons (or both) could be used as the clutch and the stick used to shift gears. Hold the remote in the right hand sideways like holding handlebar, twist the remote back and forth for throttle control and use the "B" button for brakes. (NO REVERSE GEAR)

Not pointless, It is actually a good exercise to get yourself used to not using your arms to balance. Side to side inputs for the bike should come from your feet. Lower center of gravity, center of the bike. and all that.

All he has to do is catch a bit of video of you riding/being stupid to shift the focus away from him. This is a common Team WGASA tactic. Usually one can tell that something of this caliber will be happening very soon due to the war cry of "Hey Ya'll watch this!!"

Tire knob edges being square helps loads but if you're like me (cheap) then you don't have square edges long. I suggest body position, bend at the knees to get better grip uphill (testes to the tank so to speak)and clutch and throttle control. Practice Practice Practice. If something doesn't work practice something else. Practicing the wrong technique will only give poor results. Just my opinions.

I also wear a knee brace, The Alpinestars are a tad taller than the OLD Gearne's that I had, not by much but the top of the Alpinestars and the bottom of my brace definitely meet. But everything is comfortable and works well, so no biggie.

Nope don't think it would really work too well for trials, also the following is a quote in the article about the Diesel KLR650 "In contrast to a gasoline engine, which responds instantly to the throttle, a blip of the twist grip resulted in

Marine Bike Single cylinder Diesel motorcycle motor manufacturer

The end he is looking at won't have horns anyways.

I have a 2000 2.9 I have no idea what the frame number digits mean. but here's mine VNBS329TRVA002290 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------YOURS VNBS329TRYA004058 So making a leap of faith here the 29 means we both have 2.9's and maybe that double 00 means year 2000? and last 4 are the production order? Not sure about the V and the Y. Any other Sherco experts out there that can shed some light?