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zippy

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Posts posted by zippy
 
 
  1. My 2000 has held up resonably well. The underneath mounting tabs for the bash plate (near dog bones) are very weak and would bend up and crack. had them welded for a couple years in a row then I decided to beef them up with some plate steel and a small gusset and have not had any problems since.

    It does the job, basically all the problems I have had with it were self induced, IE dropping it in stream and sucking in water and then running it for 2 years afterwards with all the silt and muck in the cases.

    Another bonus is that it will crash well, not too many bits break when I crash.

    Also the silencer is easier to repack than 2001 and up.

  2. At a trial recently we had a rider whose Sherco ran perfect in practice the day before and had no spark the next day. Only thing he did different was he washed it. I told him that was the mistake, never was a trials bike they like dirt. :D

    What fixed it was this, we unmounted the magic electrical box that is located in the frame by the steering head. The mounting bracket had 2 wires connected to it. We assumed they were ground wires and that the bracket was not making good contact with the frame. using a wire brush, (fine grit sand paper would probably be better, but hey whatcha gonna do out in the field) cleaned frame mounting point and cleaned the mounting bracket. New plug and viola she runs. Bear in mind even after doing this we could not see the spark in the bright day light.

  3. I am running 80:1 with the Amsoil. Love the stuff.

    I did dump my bike in a creek once........ sucked in much silt and other crap. ran it for 2 yrs like that and it rattled like a bag of rocks.

    I have since then replaced crank bearings and seals and new piston, rings and replated matching cylinder. still running the 80:1 and the occaisonall "blow out" of the exhaust is needed.

    (crap it sounds like I am agreeing with Copemech, oh my the end of the world is nigh!! :D )

    but if you want to err on the side of caution and run more oil that's fine just make sure your jetting is all set up for it so you get enough fuel to make the bang! More oil = less on the fuel.

    Just my opinions.

    Have fun riding!!!!!!! that is what it is all about.

  4. yep 4psi rear usually good if muddy may drop to 3psi about 6psi front is good, if front tire pushes out too much when turning maybe drop to 5psi. it takes some expirementation to get what ya like.

    Pre mix for modern bikes standard seems to be 80:1

    and a 2.9 is not a bad bike for a beginning trials rider that has experience on other bikes. Just take your time to get used to it and you will enjoy it.

  5. I am inclined to think Crankshaft bearings (main bearings). (Please notice I did not say this is a definate, just what I think it may be) Yes it is a split cases job. If you already have the head off then the coolent is already drained (small bonus there) Follow the manual here http://sherco.com/EN/wayne_corner.html (Engine Teardown and Assembly Manual. much good info here) I would suggest if the following has not been replaced before than with the cases already split now is the time to do it. Rings, Crankshaft Bearings and Seals, small end bearing, wrist pin, Piston (if it is worn too much, manuals cover measurements and such) Look at the reeds and replace if necessary. Look at every moving part to make sure it is in usable condition.

  6. personally I would like something similiar to the Moto Racer 3 setup. I am talking like real trials type sections indoor and outdoor. Make ya feel like Toni Bou. But I would like it to be on the Nintendo Wii. The balance board could be used for balancing the bike, The wii remote and nunchuck for handlebar controls. Hold nunchuck in left hand sideways like holding handlebar, one of the 2 buttons (or both) could be used as the clutch and the stick used to shift gears. Hold the remote in the right hand sideways like holding handlebar, twist the remote back and forth for throttle control and use the "B" button for brakes. (NO REVERSE GEAR)

  7. Not pointless, It is actually a good exercise to get yourself used to not using your arms to balance. Side to side inputs for the bike should come from your feet. Lower center of gravity, center of the bike. and all that.

  8. Glad you enjoyed the video, but i've taken it off as i may be in danger of damaging a friendship, which wasnt really the intention, and after all riding with your bussies is the best bit.

    Have fun all

    Cheers

    Caddabs

    All he has to do is catch a bit of video of you riding/being stupid to shift the focus away from him. This is a common Team WGASA tactic.

    Usually one can tell that something of this caliber will be happening very soon due to the war cry of "Hey Ya'll watch this!!"

  9. Tire knob edges being square helps loads but if you're like me (cheap) then you don't have square edges long. I suggest body position, bend at the knees to get better grip uphill (testes to the tank so to speak)and clutch and throttle control. Practice Practice Practice. If something doesn't work practice something else. Practicing the wrong technique will only give poor results.

    Just my opinions.

  10. Nice one Zippy, that's the bike I was thinking of, just think how heavy that engine needs to be,not really trials friendly.

    Nope don't think it would really work too well for trials, also the following is a quote in the article about the Diesel KLR650 "In contrast to a gasoline engine, which responds instantly to the throttle, a blip of the twist grip resulted in

  11. Don't know about the era mentioned but the diesel army bike I read about was based on KL650 cycle parts and was being developed for the US but apparently Britain was interested. The advantage is there's no need to have petrol when everything else runs on diesel - and you can always commandeer a local chippie for fuel if need be in emergency! As the British Army dropped motorcycles a couple of years ago the matter became irrelevant.

    Marine Bike

    Single cylinder Diesel motorcycle motor manufacturer

  12. I have a 2000 2.9

    I have no idea what the frame number digits mean. but here's mine VNBS329TRVA002290

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------YOURS VNBS329TRYA004058

    So making a leap of faith here the 29 means we both have 2.9's

    and maybe that double 00 means year 2000?

    and last 4 are the production order?

    Not sure about the V and the Y.

    Any other Sherco experts out there that can shed some light?

 
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