The disks arnt sold they are vented but not wavey... do you think wavey disks will help then Zippy or will they make no difference at all.?
Personally no I don't think there is any difference in the grab of solid, vented or wavy discs when all are clean and dry. my opinion is the vented and wavy discs allow water and such to easily find its way out of the area between the pad and disc. I may be in error about that but that is what I think at the moment.
Pic of my bottom clamp Sorry for a bit of a fuzzy pic but at least you get the idea of the fix. He did the top one a bit better/prettier. All in all I am pleased with the fix.
I oops and had my torque wrench set 5 ft/lb too high when I broke the top clamp. The bottom clamp I just noticed one day was broken in the middle of the season, I still don't know what broke it. I do agree that this particular design does not have much meat on it for the bolts to pull against.
HMMMMMM apparently access has now been denied to the pic! DOH! I ain't getting this right
Pic of my bottom clamp Sorry for a bit of a fuzzy pic but at least you get the idea of the fix. He did the top one a bit better/prettier. All in all I am pleased with the fix.
I oops and had my torque wrench set 5 ft/lb too high when I broke the top clamp. The bottom clamp I just noticed one day was broken in the middle of the season, I still don't know what broke it. I do agree that this particular design does not have much meat on it for the bolts to pull against.
If you are going to change to oil rather than ATF clean all the old stuff out, oil & ATF don't mix well and can emulsify.
ATF is fine, I use it as fork oil in a couple of my bikes.
Maybe think about some new springs first though. They do 'shorten' after that many years.
The air valves are a help with adjusting the sag, without rider there should be about an inch of sag in the suspension with the bike off stand. With the rider aboard a couple of inches sag and an even amount front and rear.
You will only want to use a hand pump and low pressure gauge. The Max I would put in them is 8psi. It is only a small volume needed.
When you reassemble the forks lube the new seals up before sliding them on to lubed up fork legs.
Thanks for the reply. Good stuff. I am super cheap so new springs are not in my future.....I'll be lucky to change the seals. I am not exactly sure what is in the forks at the moment so a super good cleaning is in order no matter what I put in them.
Its an 2010 bike thats not had much use before I brought it shouldnt the master cylinder seals and pistons still be ok...?
I did not realize they went back to a solid disk, thought when they went wavy they stayed wavy. I would think the seals and pistons should be ok. But stranger things and all that.
I had the same thing happen to my 2000 Sherco, except it was the top and the bottom on the same side. There is an "Awesome Welder Dude" locally here and he fixed them both for me.
He had to snap off the broken piece put a rod of something that won't weld to the aluminum into the threaded holes. Snug fit so the holes are square. He then built up the area that is missing around those rods. Then chucked the rod into his drill press/mill to square it up, then drilled the countersink hole for the bolt. Lastly cut the split back into clamp.
Zipper, ATF is roughly equal to 10wt fork oil and has good anti-foaming properties. Not sure if there may be an advantage in a real fork oils anti-stiction properties, possibly so, so since you are doing the once a decade fluid change, go for the big bucks!
Thanks and I think this is the once every 25 yrs fluid change, so I should really spend the big bucks.
Any ideas about the air pressure thing? or are those valves just there for releasing pressure if it builds up?
OK getting my '86 TLR200 Reflex in a relatively trials ready condition, I decide I need to change fork oil and new fork seals. Open maintenance manual, read up on the way the forks come apart and how much oil to add. OH wait a minute it clearly states to fill the forks with ATF???? Now that just seems a bit odd to me with all the great variety of specific fork oils out there, well maybe it was slim pickings back in 1986???
Anyway my big question is: All you gents that have your TLR200 Reflex set up for trials what are YOU currently using as fork oil?? and do you have any air pressure added as well?? My forks have the Schrader valves on the caps.
Thanks to all (even those with the smart comments, I deserve my share)
Hi All, problem with my 290s brakes. Front and rear pads are brand new due to the brakes being a bit spongy but they still are no way as sharp as they shouls be. The brakes on my KTM 350-F are like lightening, really tight. The disks are solid so would they be better with wavey disks...?
N
Solid disks make me think 2 Year 2000 to 2005 (just guessing) time period. Mine is a 2000 I had horrible front brakes for a long time, I tried bleeding (many times) new pads (heat cycling), master cylinder rebuild, and new hose. When I did a rebuild (seals and pistons) of the front caliper my front brakes became AWESOME!!
First time was stupid, laid the bike down with my left leg in between front tire and header pipe.
Side saddle...
UUUMMMM yep that is how it happened the second time. I was goofing around and riding the loop side saddle with my left ankle on my right knee, actually pretty dang funny when pulling up to a section. I was in 5th gear and slowed way down and turned to go up a medium steep hill, the bike was just a chugging and then stalled and fell over to the left. My left leg came down right on the hot header. stung a bit at the time but did not really hurt until a few days later.
Odd, I thought exposed skin could handle higher temperatures........... (please see my signature)
I personally believe it is all in the legs, and you want to compress both the forks and the rear shock at the same time.
Push down with your legs, over exaggerate the first few times to get the feel for it. and possibly more throttle, to get that "explode" out of the bounce.
I really enjoy my set had them for a couple years now, still going strong. Only problem I have had is the ankle area is rubbing on something on the right boot and getting some gouges in the leather. I am considering gluing a "protective" piece of throw away leather in that spot. I can't get rid of the mid pipe mount that the boot is hitting.
And most of us fall somewhere in between. Wear what YOU feel is necessary and YOU are comfortable with.
I personally wear Helmet, Alpinestar boots, Gloves, Ankle braces (twisted one up pretty bad), Knee brace (Arthritis from prior work related injury), T shirt and Shorts. I know the shorts makes no sense especially after I mention I have burned my leg TWICE on the header pipe (Took special skill too considering it was my left leg and the header is on the right side)
I will putter around the yard with out all the safety stuff, but I won't do any "serious" riding without all my kit, just don't feel comfortable without it.
I drowned out my 2000 sherco 2.9 a few years ago. Did the upside down thing to drain the water out after silly me kicked the bike over a couple time in the stream with the water in and the plug still in. Got it fired back up and finished the event. Down side is the stream had quite a bit of silt and sediment that got sucked into my cases and ruined my rings and crank bearings. Although I did ride it for 2 years before changing rings and bearings. It was still running when I changed them but ran 1000% better after I changed them out.
We need to get you out and try it! We will catch you! (Right Biff?)
Catch the bike!!!!! I have health insurance the bike doesn't, so it cost money to fix the bike!!!
I must give a to Biffsgasgas, Ever since I started riding with him he has given me confidence to try many things I thought was way too scary before, and my riding has improved greatly.
(I probably won't try that uphill huge splatter thingy though. My comment was basically "Geez how many times is he going to show that? With all those other things he does so well there should be some other trials bit that he can show instead of the same old uphill splatter thingy that was already shown 7 times. My problem is with his video editing not his skills. Maybe I should have just put in the long explanation to begin with)
That was fun to watch. I like the gent that just looks at his bike after stepping off the back. (at the 10 sec. to 15 sec. marks) Like the bike is mental and should not have run off without him.
Looks like a bunch of good friends having a great day out on the bikes. And I would bet the following phrase was said more than once "Oh yes, you definitely can make it over/up that." Followed shortly by "HAHAHA he tried it!"
43 year old nutcase rides a 300lb dual sport bike from Rancho Cucamonga to Las Vegas via Death Valley on Friday then enters the same bike in EX on Saturday. The LA-Barstow-Vegas route is typically 450 miles so I'm going to have to chisel it down quite a bit to make it in one day.
I am not exactly sure what is in the forks at the moment so a super good cleaning is in order no matter what I put in them.
comments, I deserve my share)
or two
(please see my signature)
Sherco Brakes... Spongy.
in Sherco
Posted
Personally no I don't think there is any difference in the grab of solid, vented or wavy discs when all are clean and dry. my opinion is the vented and wavy discs allow water and such to easily find its way out of the area between the pad and disc. I may be in error about that but that is what I think at the moment.